BCCHOPIT, Eric at A's An More in Stafford Springs CT is doing the work. I am sure you have heard of him being from CT and all. I am away on business right now but my father is supose to be going by to check the progress of the motor sometime this week. I will have him take a few pics.
If I had my druthers I would use a Winfield "crowsfoot".. Maybe you should PM Rich fox and get his input, after all he's done it. But he wasn't running a Ford. Did you really go to the expense of having the crank re ground because of your pistons? I started with the stroker crank then bought pistons with the compression height modified to fit. You are going to have look for a head with approx. 115 cc chambers in order to get to 8.5. This will have to include the volume of the gasket. And most of the crowsfoot would be gone. The one I have that has been milled approx. .200 also has room for 2" intakes but the webs between the valve chamber are only about .190. We bolted it on for the Picacho Peak hill climb a few years back but blew a head gasket. It was just under 9 to 1. on a 4" bore. At the time I told my son,the driver, to wind it up to at least 3 grand and drop the clutch. He did and we heard a loud pop. He still ran in the 10's
Yes I did offset grind the crank. My thought behind this was a chevy 283 piston is much easier to find in a pinch than a special custom made piston. With your head milled .200" how much lift from the cam were you able to get? There really isnt a point in milling the head if you just have to hog it back out to clearence your valves, is there? Mike
I didn't mill the head. I bought it from an old lakes guy named Bill Owens that told me he had run 117 or something like that before the war. He said that he had a Winfield "Super" cam with .375 lift with 2 97's and 1 7/8" intakes. The Winfield cam that I have that is marked "Super" only has .365 lift. I guess there were a lot of different "Super" grinds. J Brierley has recorded 5 different SU1R specs. I have 2 different SU1R's, one with .293 and the other with .365 intake lift One other thing about heads I have noticed, at least on Winfield's is that the radius in the combustion chamber wall behind the valve is different for intake and exhaust. Wayne Atkinson has done quite a bit of research regarding air flow in the "A" block. His article was just reprinted in the S O S S magazine
ok finally home and all stuff assessed looks like i made out pretty good.... as some of you know... I've been patiently waiting on this for about 9 or 10 months now and finally it all worked out... this is what I was told about it... "The stuff I got was raced at Redlands speedway, Banning Elk's Speedway, Culver City Boardtrack, Gardena track and of course Ascot speedway, all in the late 1920's, and just into the 1930's by Multi-Aldrich before the actual owner converted over to a Model A engine. The camshaft for the RAJO. As explained to me, it was originally designed for a Frontenac three port. But, instead got used on the RAJO engine. Looks to have about 1/4 inch lift at lobe, but an awfull long duration. No name whatsoever on it. I doubt it was Ford made though." It looks to be in perfect shape... different then other BB-R's that I've seen as its open for the 2nd set of plugs.... maybe the others are not really originally made for the dual plugs and this is? Anyways, its a Stutz dual ignition.....huge valves, double valve springs, looks like a decent counterbalanced crank... undrilled front cover.... nice finned side covers... also an intake for a flathead T with HUGE ports.... rods are drilled for weight and dippers brazed on... lightweight piston pins, hollow push rods.... heres a few pics of it all..... he built a pallett with suspension! and had everything meticulously bolted down to it even stuff inside the crate is bolted down through like the stutz ignition and here is all of it on the bench Also slowly working on getting the Go-Devil motor together for our model-A racecar
High compression heads and heavy flywheels dont go together so i guess it would be the same for high compression pistons.
Hey TBone, I think you've got it covered. Other than the pedals and steering box and column i think its just the steering arm that comes off the pitman arm would need to be swapped to the other side, and i would imagine that your frame would have steering box holes in the other side (mine has em in both sides.. i'm assuming here..). You'd also have to swap the steering arm from the right side to the left side on the backing plates. I think thats about it..
That's some SWEET looking stuff there! Are you planning on bringing it in a vehicle to next years Showdown?
Excellent score now you are cooking and you have managed to pick up the whole package that crank is something else you now have a very special project well done even got the valve cover they are hard to get
I doubt the motor will be done by the showdown next year I have another car I'm hoping to finish before I even start on this one really anyways just going to gradually work on the motor and get that ready then build the car around it... it'll go in a full fendered , lowered and cut down 25 roadster russTee...... I wasn't thinking i was getting the valve cover or the side covers but then one day during the process I was e-mailed....."noticed aluminum sticking out of pile in the garage, found the valve cover and side covers burried, forgot about them" The stutz ignition is missing some parts and the head is missing the valve guides and all the clips and whatnot for the top of the valves...
Do 6 bangers count, or should i go find my own inliner thread? Iv got this wicked little 230 plymouth with .530 lift on the cam that i need to put together. Can post pics if anybody is interested, even if it has 2 extra cylinders
I think I'm going to run the banger when I pick up an A coupe, you guys have some killer cars. Are the majority of you guys running a V8 trans? I love the fact that it's a simple bolt in conversion, I'm sure ditching the crash box really makes them more enjoyable!
You just might like it. When I got my coupe I had a 48 flat head-8 , 331 hemi and 2 small block chevy's siting for a new project but the little banger was so cool after putting a down draft carb and a header its not all that fast but its a lot of fun. I wont to put a 5 speed behind the banger that shoud get me to 70mph
Crazydaddyo is the king of the 5-speed conversion if you want to do it. I have one, but had to switch to open drive. His method and parts are the cat's ass. They use the torque tube, so one less thing to radically change.
his pics do look real nice. I have 2 2wd s10 tranys and a jeep4x4 trany but the jeep is too long for the model A
Honestly, I am gonna discriminate and say this is a 4 banger thread. I have seen some of your posts and you really are a "punk" 18 year old. Did you ever apologize to your dad for calling him a dickhead or whatever disrespectful stuff that got that thread finally deleted because everyone was so pissed off about your nonsense?-Weeks
I think it depends on the philosophy and intended use of the build. I want a 5-speed for my daily driver Falcon, but I want to make my T a time capsule from 1932. -Dave
Hear hear!!! This is an issue a few of my hot rod buddies discussed between ourselves a little while ago. I really doubt I'll drive a hot rod too far and will only use it for regular relatively short trips. We drive 20's and 30's cars, and to me they will always be just that - 20's and 30's technologically challenged simple hot rods. My previous driver was a 5 speed Falcon, now I drive a japanese car with an auto, but my hot rod has a 35-37 gearbox, and I wouldn't change a thing. 2c spent
The pain is to drive it almost every day. When I don't need the tuck for work. Now that it gets dark at 5 I went to 12 volts and now have real head lights.I save all the parts i take off the car so I can always put it back when times change
What about the AA Truck 4 speed. Have you guys used it in your cars? The 4x4 S10 T-5 is the one to use, right? Good shifter location and adaptable to the TT. Jeff
If you want to be period correct the ultimate transmission is the 37 39 Lincoln Zephyr side shift. This was/is the most desirable transmission for an "authentic" 40's 50's hot rod. These transmissions used the same ratio's as the Ford transmissions. The more desirable "long Lincoln's" came out with the column shift in 1940. The gearshift lever is 3" to the right and 3 1/2" forward. The forks are attached to the right side and the shifter pin is on about as 15 to 20 degree angle stock so they are heated and bent to a vertical position This gives a lot more room for your throttle/brake foot. The transmission also has a "shorter throw" making for faster and more positive shifts. The shorter throw may take some getting used to if you have been using a Ford 3 speed toploader I have one in my modified and another in a shed waiting. If you install one it is a bitch until you realize it bolts in 1 bolt off from what you think it should be because of the angle of the shifter pin.
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