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Projects Not Your Average Coupe Build: 37’ Chevy Unearthed

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by oneratfink57, Jan 31, 2017.

  1. 1blown57
    Joined: Oct 19, 2006
    Posts: 832

    1blown57
    Member
    from Florida

    LOOKS FANTASTIC!!!! :cool:
     
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  2. pila38
    Joined: Mar 25, 2009
    Posts: 763

    pila38
    Member

    Looks great! Keep up the good work and pace.
     
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  3. hacknwhack
    Joined: Jan 25, 2006
    Posts: 481

    hacknwhack
    Member
    from mass

    I've enjoyed following along since January.
    I've seen kieths 37 and I completely understand your vision, that car is stunning.
    Keep going. Nice work.

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  4. oneratfink57
    Joined: Feb 12, 2006
    Posts: 725

    oneratfink57
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    I was determined to knock out the major floor pans back to the trunk today, and wound up making it in 8 pieces

    One main piece for the transition from the cabin to the trunk

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    One main piece for the trunk itself


    [​IMG]

    And 6 side panels to integrate the step over the frame rails

    [​IMG]

    Once the floors were done I laid out some simple bead roll designs for rigidity between the floor supports

    The trunk

    [​IMG]

    The cabin to trunk transition

    [​IMG]

    Now I've got all of the main floor pans complete! Just need to stretch/ flatten them out.

    The only panels I have left is the tail pan and main portion of the transmission tunnel

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Now before I can actually weld the floors in I've got a pretty big to do list including dropping the motor and trans, so I decided to throw the block on the engine stand so I can tear it down what's left of it and bring it to the machine shop. I'm going to employ my 6 year old daughter to help me though! I'll see if my 4 year old is interested but it's highly unlikely lol

    [​IMG]



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    Last edited: Apr 10, 2017
  5. oneratfink57
    Joined: Feb 12, 2006
    Posts: 725

    oneratfink57
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Today I was in a mad dash. It's not my best, but I feel I hammered out a lot of work today! I was in a rush because i wanted to spend my time with the kids tomorrow hunting for Easter eggs etc!

    I employed the help of the kids to tear down the block I'd use for mock up in the 37 later in the day

    [​IMG]


    Cut out the wacky motor mounts that were in the car so I could get started

    [​IMG]

    The plan was to mount the trans crossmember and make front frame adapters for my hurst engine mount.

    Unfortunately all did not go according to plan and I forgot how rotted the bottom of the top hat frame was. So I started by cutting out the dead metal on both frame rails.

    The biggest pain in the rear was grinding down all the spot welds. To be entirely honest, I gave up and left any good metal left on the flanges and just patched over it.


    [​IMG]

    Then, as true New England cars do, the chassis gave me a little surprise Chipmunks!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Used 16 gauge sheet metal to replace the lower steel.

    [​IMG]

    Overhead flux core on my side. Car was only on dollies but I was determined to squeeze under the car and weld it. The discomfort certainly shows in the weld quality lol. I'll run a better looking pass over it some other time

    [​IMG]

    Then it was time to drop the motor and trans. I don't have any pictures of it but I mounted up the transmission cross member and began the work on the motor mounts.

    My original plan was to take the factory 69 Camaro mounts and flip them upside down to use them as pockets inside the frame rail, but I didn't realize the reinforcements for the lower control arms came so far up into the cross member.

    So I had to fab up frame adapters from scratch. This picture shows the first iteration which I changed. I didn't feel like using cardboard today so I cut all my iterations out of steel, mainly because I'm just stubborn!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    You can see by pocketing the frame rail, it allowed me to drop the motor about 2" lower than the factory Camaro location, which brought the motor and trans closer to level

    [​IMG]

    Dropping the motor and trans

    [​IMG]

    final iteration of my frame adapter

    [​IMG]

    And voila!

    [​IMG]

    Motivation today was brought to you by, the blues brothers

    I hope you all have a wonderful Easter. Thanks for reading

    [​IMG]


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    Last edited: Sep 19, 2020
  6. 1blown57
    Joined: Oct 19, 2006
    Posts: 832

    1blown57
    Member
    from Florida

  7. oneratfink57
    Joined: Feb 12, 2006
    Posts: 725

    oneratfink57
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Didn't spend a whole lot of time in the garage today. But I finished my bolt in cross member

    Cut out the old sketchy angle iron one

    [​IMG]

    Cut my 2" diameter 0.125" wall tube to fit between the rails, minus the space for two 0.25" side plates

    [​IMG]

    Made two side plates out of 0.25" bar stock, and tacked them to each end. Had to break the tacks, grind tube and repeat a few times to get a perfect fit that I'd be able to get out from under the car if I had to.

    I made some standoff shock mount brackets out of some standard tube shock tabs and sections of the 0.25" thick pipe riser clamps that I used on the trans tunnel earlier in the build.

    [​IMG]

    Taking care that the shocks were on a 15-25 degree angle as most shock manufacturers recommend, I placed the newly made shock mount brackets accordingly and tacked in place.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I made the shock mount tabs this way because I knew I'd be tight on space, so I wanted a little more flexibility with installing the shocks and bought some shock mount studs to use on the cross member, and with me using round tube, I had to accommodate rotating the shocks 90 degrees because they wouldn't be vertical.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Once everything was tacked solid, I removed the cross member and welded everything solid. One of these days I'll upgrade to a 240volt multi process welder. But for now the 120v Lincoln and flux core will have to do

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Now I can cross the cross member off the list of things to do before I weld the floor pans in!

    I also dropped the body for the channel today. Tough to capture in a picture so I didn't bother.

    I did find that I screwed up though! My attempt to align the factory mount locations to the newly built floor (while it was hovering 3" over the frame) didn't turn out so great and I'm about 1/2 hole off on all 4 that I made lol, so I'll have to do a few modifications before I bolt the body to the frame.




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  8. oneratfink57
    Joined: Feb 12, 2006
    Posts: 725

    oneratfink57
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    After some maths, 2" lowering blocks are as low as I can go without having to redo what I did today. That comes out to 7" of ground clearance between the fender and the road with a 25" tire

    I figure any lower than that and I'd want adjustable ride height. Remember the body is channeled just under 2" anyways

    [​IMG]



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  9. ...when you bolt that rear shock x-member to the rails, be sure you don't overdo it as the frame will compress or smash together, you real should install heavy wall tubes thru the frame, or try to mount that x-member to the framerail flange.
     
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  10. oneratfink57
    Joined: Feb 12, 2006
    Posts: 725

    oneratfink57
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Thats a great point, thanks for the input!

    I was concerned about the wall thickness of the frame too. I initially wanted it removable so down the road I could more easily change the rear suspension setup if I wanted to, but now Im almost thinking I just weld the cross member solid to the frame because I just want the car on the road! lol. At this point I cant bolt it to the flange because the side plate thickness is about 1/3 of the flange length, so I wouldnt be able to weld and extension and get a bolt through it.
     
  11. oneratfink57
    Joined: Feb 12, 2006
    Posts: 725

    oneratfink57
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    I could actually cut some more side plates, and use them on the outside of the rails so it spreads the clamping force out over a larger area. That would help too!
     
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  12. kidcampbell71 and oneratfink57 like this.
  13. yeah, what Crusty Chevy said, that's my vote too,..that'd be the easiest way to do it and it'd be bolt-in and easily remove-able...
     
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  14. oneratfink57
    Joined: Feb 12, 2006
    Posts: 725

    oneratfink57
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Ahh yeah I remember looking that up and thinking I didn't have square tube, so I used what I had. You guys are right though. I might have to look into changing it up. Plus it would give me the opportunity to move the shock mounts out so I could drop the car lower if I wanted to.

    Stay tuned, I might just have to pick up some square tube


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  15. Great job man!
    I will also be referring to your build when I start my 47 KB floors
     
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  16. oneratfink57
    Joined: Feb 12, 2006
    Posts: 725

    oneratfink57
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Thanks robber, be sure to post some pics when you get started!


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  17. 39 Aaron NZ
    Joined: Jan 2, 2017
    Posts: 85

    39 Aaron NZ
    Member

    WOW! I've just read your whole thread. It's a good looking chop that you started with.
    And your floor is awesome! From the 'technical' white board planning to the great bead rolling! (My daughter still just spreads my tools around work shop)
    It's motorvation to get back into my sedan.
    I like your 'get on with it' attitude and high standed of work.
    I will watch your build with great interest!
    Thanks Aaron.

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  18. I too just got done reading the complete thread, nice job!
     
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  19. ...you can use the round tube you have, just get 2 angles like so, and cut your tube to fit between em, bolt it to the frame flanges...see sketch below...
    odds n ends 014.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2017
  20. oneratfink57
    Joined: Feb 12, 2006
    Posts: 725

    oneratfink57
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Good call, at first I figured I'd go under the frame like chassis engineering for additional support, but you're right, cross members don't usually do that!

    The bottom plate would have to extend past the original side plates (front to back) in order to capture the flanges on the inside of the frame rail. So I'd actually cut the flange so the side plates can be flush with the bottom of the frame rail, and then could grab 4 bolt holes when I weld the lower plate to my cross member

    Sketched a picture below. The new iphone notes sketch feature is pretty awesome by the way!

    Black=frame rail
    Light green=current crossmember
    Dark green=new lower plate per your suggestion
    Blue=bolts

    The upper picture is the cross section of the frame and the bottom picture is a top view(despite the fact it should of actually been on the top lol)

    Let me know your thoughts!


    [​IMG]


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  21. deathrowdave
    Joined: May 27, 2014
    Posts: 2,664

    deathrowdave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NKy

    I have made many rear shock mounts for early Chebbys , by just using a triangular shaped plate bolted to flange . 2 bolts inside , one outside , with a tab welded on to use the same shock stud/bolt as you are using . Lower was a piece of angle , 4 holes for u bolts and one for center pin of spring , other side of angle trimmed to triangle shape , with shock stud /bolt for lower mount . You will notice when you get deeper into build than rear axle is not centered into fender opening . Using angle lower plate bracket will allow you to drill center pin hole 1 inch to rear to correct wheel spacing in the opening . Try to locate images of OEM , rear axle mount and you can see why installing a later axle changes wheel in fender opening . Remember these early springs where not designed to with stand the torque of a V8 they were just to support body weight and suspension , they had a torque tube to limit torque load on springs . I twisted up a few pairs of OEM 37 springs before I got wise to traction master style bars to stop spring wrap . Good Luck your doing great work and you will enjoy the 37 great classic body style even if it's a Chebby ! Just stirring the pot I owned one for many years and many fun miles
     
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  22. oneratfink57
    Joined: Feb 12, 2006
    Posts: 725

    oneratfink57
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Something like this? Arrow is pointing toward inside of frame. I kind of like that as long as I can get a short enough shock to accommodate. Stays out of the way of exhaust when I route it

    [​IMG]



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  23. deathrowdave
    Joined: May 27, 2014
    Posts: 2,664

    deathrowdave
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NKy

    You got it ! Sorry not smart enough to draw on this thing ! But you got the idea , it works great
     
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  24. oneratfink57
    Joined: Feb 12, 2006
    Posts: 725

    oneratfink57
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    No worries! I wasn't smart enough until yesterday lol


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  25. ...I made mine like your last sketch, but like this...which allows for a longer shock....no crossmember from rail to rail, just these mounts
    odds n ends 015.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2017
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  26. oneratfink57
    Joined: Feb 12, 2006
    Posts: 725

    oneratfink57
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Despite the most recent conversations I did not work on the rear shock mount brackets/crossmember today. Although I will revisit that sometime soon

    What I've been getting sick of is shuffling all the floor pans I made around because they're all loose in the car.

    So I decided to weld up what I felt I could without regretting it later ( due to misc projects underneath the car etc)

    Unfortunately I pushed off flattening my potato chips for later so I got to deal with it today!

    Before

    [​IMG]


    After

    [​IMG]

    Although it's not perfectly flat accross the panel, I took most of the crown out of it when compared to the first picture, which is all that's really necessary for a floor pan.

    One bit of advice is to be careful not to overstretch the panel, which I did in one spot on the passenger side! So I'll have to go back and shrink it with a torch before I weld the rear pans in

    Next I drilled 0.25" holes two inches apart around the perimeter of the panel to plug weld to the tube structure.

    I really love these cleco pins! For those of you who have never seen/ used them I highly recommend them when working with sheet metal with any lap joints

    [​IMG]

    While I was welding the two center panels in, I remembered that I'd need some seat mounting tabs when I go to make or buy a seat. So I threw four front seat mounting tabs in. I made sure to recess them down about 1/16" so that they would be flush with the front floor pans step I rolled into them

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I also received my lokar shifter from one of our fellow HAMBers this week. It's a 23" tall floor mount so it's pretty radical for a traditional custom, but the price was right!


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Shot of the two center pans welded in, and the passenger front pan pinned in place ready for weld

    [​IMG]


    Last task of the day was cutting off the passenger door that has been welded on since I transported it back in November. Now it lets a little more light in the car so I can see what I'm doing lol

    [​IMG]





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  27. kmrumedy
    Joined: Dec 6, 2009
    Posts: 142

    kmrumedy
    Member

    Just read this whole thread. Very cool. Wonderful work. Will follow this one.

    I also came across an ad today where the seller was selling the following: ( Not sure if there is anything you are looking for..... I have no affiliation with seller.)

    Below is a list of various vintage hot rod body parts available for sale:

    1937 and 38 Chevrolet Sedan doors
    1937, 38 and 39 Chevrolet head and tail lights
    1941 - 46 Chevrolet Pickup head lights
    1941 - 47 Studabacher headlights
    1937 and 38 Chevrolet Coupe truck lids
    1937 and 38 Chevrolet Sedan truck lids
    1936 - 39 Chevrolet roofs
    1937 and 38 Chevrolet side glass and roll down windows
    1937 and 38 Chevrolet chrome door handles
    1937 and 38 Chevrolet bumpers, nose, grills and hood trims
    1937, 38 and 39 Chevrolet heater boxes
    1937, 38 and 39 Chevrolet Coupe hoods
    1937, 38 and 39 Chevrolet Sedan hoods
    1938 Dodge Coupe doors and front fenders

    For all inquires please call Moe directly at 519-648-3072 (no emails please)
     
    Last edited: May 1, 2017
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  28. oneratfink57
    Joined: Feb 12, 2006
    Posts: 725

    oneratfink57
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Thanks for the lead. I could be in the market for a set of doors


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  29. kmrumedy,...that guy should have no problem sellin that stuff
     

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