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Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by roll of the dices, Jan 1, 2019.

  1. Started tracing the layout/template for the first panel.

    thumbnail_IMG_4684.jpg thumbnail_IMG_4685.jpg

    We shall see tomorrow if my HF bead roller and I can do the job. I am planning to pre-stretch the area where the beads will go with the english wheel.
    Last edited: May 16, 2019
  2. I had 10 sheared and bent for crossmembers in my 31 by a welding company the does a lot of fab work. Surely one around your area I would think.
  3. English wheel is out! Time to start wheeling :)

    All my rolled bead areas are pre-stretched. Curved the upper and lower halves to make it easier at time of install

    Got all the lines marked up again, ready to start bead rolling

    And there it is! 1 of 5 floor inserts. This one is for the kick up area.

    Tomorrow, I will trim it to size and will cleco it in place.
  4. And there she is...

    thumbnail_IMG_4699.jpg thumbnail_IMG_4700.jpg

    Off to the next piece...This will be a more of a challenge, as it is the angled floor. A few bends and it needs to fit inside the seat riser.
    I have what is left off the original to get a template off of it.

    And there it least the layout of it...I am changing the layout of the "X" ribs, mostly for simplicity when folding it. This piece is a bit wider than my HF metal bender

    Pre-stretching that metal again. That english wheel is taxing on you ... :-(

    ...more to come...
  5. Work continues on the angled floor.
    Now taking final shape with all the bends.

    I got it fitted to the seat riser and happy with the outcome. I am running out of clecos. Time to buy some more!
    I can't believe this piece is $175 shipped, if I was to buy it from the any of the sellers.
    thumbnail_IMG_4708.jpg thumbnail_IMG_4709.jpg thumbnail_IMG_4710.jpg thumbnail_IMG_4711.jpg

    Unfortunately, I can set the angled floor and seat riser as the clamps are still on the way. I need to do the mid body mounts still.
    Moving on. Now for to the piece underneath the seat.

    Same template from before, just cur down to fit.

    I pre-stretched the panel but some how I still got a bit more distortion than the other panels.
    Not too bad, I will deal with it at welding.

    The bowing is more noticeable from this angle

    I ran out of clecos but had enough to secure the panel in place.

    And that's it for the floor, at least for now. The angled floor and seat riser will go in once I can remove those clamps.
    The front half will be on hold until the engine and transmission are installed.
    The plan is to use a 59AB with T5 transmission, so I am sure the floors in the front will need a hump. The goal is not alter the original firewall....let's hope that's the case.

    Very satisfied with the outcome of the floors. Can't beat it when I only spend $50 in materials
    Eventually, these will be covered with sound barrier and carpet, painted body color on the bottom
  6. classiccarjack
    Joined: Jun 30, 2009
    Posts: 1,439


    Fantastic job!!! Very nice!

    Sent from my Moto Z (2) using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
    osage orange likes this.
  7. fourspd2quad
    Joined: Jul 6, 2006
    Posts: 682


    WOW. Very impressive work. Thanks so much for sharing your skills. Awesome:)
    osage orange likes this.
  8. Thank you!
    osage orange likes this.
  9. Thank you!
    osage orange likes this.
  10. So where do I stand today? Since the last update of hours and expenses, which I did back in January.

    I've worked a total of 84 hrs, so far in 2019. That puts me for a total of 236 total hours, as of today.
    In materials, epoxy primer, glazing putty, metal, etc, I am in for a total of $557.94. Little has changed here, since I only bought a sheet of metal for the floor.
    Parts, including frame, body and all the new parts I have bought and not yet installed, $15,734.32

    So here is how I look at this, if I quote the labor @ $50/hr rate, what I assume would an average quality shop in LA,

    I would be in it for $27,534.32. If I don't count the labor in, $!6, 292.26....

    All in all it has been a fantastic experience. Started with a $4,000 invested, have learned a ton, and continue to pursue the phrase "it would cost more to build it yourself than the asking price"

    thumbnail_IMG_4717.jpg thumbnail_IMG_4718.jpg
    236 Hours in total labor

    thumbnail_IMG_4719.jpg thumbnail_IMG_4720.jpg
    $15,734.32 in parts
  11. classiccarjack
    Joined: Jun 30, 2009
    Posts: 1,439


    Never could build one cheap myself... But worth the experience. I love to work on cars.

    Sent from my Moto Z (2) using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
  12. Keep it going!! Results look great!!
    classiccarjack likes this.
  13. brady1929
    Joined: Sep 30, 2006
    Posts: 8,273


    Nice job on the floor.
  14. I don’t see you losing $ on this but I do see you gaining a education for next to nothing. Love the car!
  15. Thank you all for the kind words and encouragement.
    I am braced for impact. I know this will not be a cheap build and I want to do it right ,without cutting corners. After all ,I am doing for me....I know the cost is going to be high and expecting that.
    I do enjoy working on the roadster very much, is almost like therapy for me and the amount of knowledge and experience I am gaining is priceless.
    If I would have known this 20 years ago, without the responsibilities I have now, I would have probably volunteered at a shop just to learn and have someone to coach me along. My biggest problem now is that I am doing the best that I can, but no one to tell me if it is right or wrong or if there is a better way to do it....We are all heroes on our minds, that's how feel with this.
  16. Moving on...Started working on bulkhead. Fully leveled the frame and body and started to lay it out
    I am using 1"x3" and 1"x"1, mostly because I had enough left over to get it done, without having to buy material.

    I will be traveling for work for the rest of the week. Once I get back I will be sheathing it with 18ga, throwing a few bead rolls to give it strength. I ordered the gas tank and it should be here in a few days; hopefully, by the time I get back it will be here so I can start mocking it up.

    thumbnail_IMG_4735.jpg thumbnail_IMG_4736.jpg thumbnail_IMG_4737.jpg
    1947knuck, oldiron 440 and brEad like this.
  17. Have been traveling for work so no time to work on the roadster.
    Starting to template the bulkhead, hopefully, tomorrow I can go buy some material to cut it and start working on it.


    New fuel tank arrived. I am using a Tanks universal 14 gal tank. Model U9-A-T
    So far, it looks like it will fit perfectly...more to come on this... thumbnail_IMG_4753.jpg thumbnail_IMG_4754.jpg
    1947knuck, oldiron 440 and brEad like this.
  18. The bulkhead is now in place. Not welded in yet, waiting to finish the floors first
    My HF bead roller has really come in handy. I did 1/4" step and spot welded the 18 ga to the frame.
    I will be suing an adhesive sealant on the sides.

    thumbnail_IMG_4763.jpg thumbnail_IMG_4764.jpg thumbnail_IMG_4765.jpg thumbnail_IMG_4766.jpg
  19. I started work on the rear wheel wells. Work has been very buys and haven't much time on my hands.
    The bottom left corner of the driver side wheel wheel was gone the metal so soft that I could fold it over with my fingers.
    Not being a fabricator, this corner alone took me over 3-4 hours to make and get it to a point that I liked it.
    I cut as little as possible but trying to leave good metal behind to weld to.

    With a bit more welding, grinding and final trim to size, it should be fine.
    I got the radius as good as I could, folds underneath and around the rail as original.

    Now here comes my progress to a stop.
    I noticed the reproduction fender panels from Macs looked nothing close to the originals, but I moved forward and trimmed and cut the old stuff off....only to find out I wasn't going to be happy with the outcome.
    This is the stock picture Macs advertises. Pretty good, I think.
    They claim is die stamp with close attention to detail.
    This is the one part I didn't checked as it arrived, damn!. I put it away in the box waiting for it's turn to be used.

    Well, here is what I got...
    Not closed to the original...not even closed to the picture...all the claimed attention to detail was forgotten here.

    The bead rolls are not even close on size, shape, location, or depth.

    The crescent moon shape closes to the doors....not even there but clearly present on the picture they used.

    I got them fitted but haven't start tacking them in place....I am debating whether I should keep them or try and fine another vendor with something closer to the original.
    Not looking for a dead on reproduction but I could have done these with my HB bead roller and would have cost me 1/2 of what I paid.
    I am not building a car show here and these will hardly be noticed once the tires are on....but I know they will be there...I am sure is going to bother me.
    At this point, I can't return them and that is my lost....I think the hunt is on for something better...

    Anyone with a lead on a good vendor that has a good quality replacement, let me know...
  20. Never2low
    Joined: Jan 14, 2008
    Posts: 1,117


    Ouch! I wouldn't be to keen on using those either.
    For reference, I got mine for my Coupe from Mac's circa 2017 IIRC.
    They're really close to the pictures, and the originals, thou I haven't trimmed the wells, and tried to fit them yet...
  21. wackdaddy
    Joined: Nov 11, 2015
    Posts: 160


    These are Snyder's with a bit of reworking at the bottom of the beads to make up for the trimmed look

    Automotive Stud likes this.
  22. Just a quick update. on those rear inner panels..I decided to bite the bullet and buy new rear inner panels.
    I knew looking at them was going to bother me. Well as matter go with the correct panels now that I can....Easier say that done!
    I called 3 vendors and email another one and they all replied that they had the correct panels. Only after I insisted that they get a visual on them they replied that they had the same style that I already had. Not good!
    I drove 60 miles to CW Moss just to learn they had the same wrong panels. By then, I was getting frustrated.
    Even the fellows at Moss were surprised.

    I finally found Ahooga Parts. Until now, I had never heard of them and just found them by luck doing an image search of the correct panels in google. I emailed them and this was Dale's reply,

    "Yes, ours looks just like the picture. And our "Beads" are die stamped, not bead rolled. in fact, we have two dies that these go thru to make them like this.
    The first one puts the Beads in it, the second die puts what I call the "Swish" or arc and the rectangular indentation on the opposite end."

    Ordering a pair and we'll see I get! There customer service was awesome and their price is lower than most Vendors, which helps since I will be taking a loss on the panels from Mac's

    As for Mac's Auto Parts, well, I reached out to them and send them pictures of what I had received.
    I wasn't expecting a refund, since I was a few days over the 30 days and I had already started modifying one of the panels...Let's just leave it at that and hope others are more careful than I was.
  23. classiccarjack
    Joined: Jun 30, 2009
    Posts: 1,439


    Thank you for allowing us to learn from you.

    Sent from my Moto Z (2) using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
    osage orange likes this.
  24. Meanwhile the new rear inner fender panels arrive, I built a base for the fuel tank.
    Because the tank is going to sit right below the tulip panel and the floor kicks up towards the rear end, I wanted a leveled base to be able to sit the tank on.

    I used 1" x tube with the profile cut off to match the profile of the floor. These are 8" long, to give me room in the font just in case I want to use a strap in the middle ones for additional support.
    This picture is upside down to the final position.

    Welded 5/16" bolts to the ends to use the stock bolting points of the tank. Once everything is final welded, I will weld the back of the brackets to the cross rail and will bolt the front of the bracket through the floor.


    Tank will be fully supported once it is full. the rear will sit over the cross rail.

    The bracket needs to still move back.
    Now the tank will be level on the floor. Once I remove the temporary brace I will place the tank in position and will find bolting points for the back of it.

    UPS is due tomorrow with the rear wheel inner panels...keeping my fingers cross.
  25. Automotive Stud
    Joined: Sep 26, 2004
    Posts: 4,028

    Automotive Stud

    That looks like a closed car wheel well panel with the intersecting beads. I cut mine the same way you did with the shortened beads, I haven't seen many others done the same way. Anyway I got mine from Snyders which I believe was made by Brookville, they were very nice quality and included the crecent moon indent to match the subrail at the front like original. 20160625_105014.jpg
  26. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 6,517

    Bandit Billy

    Great work! This pretty much pays for that HF English wheel and bead roller. I've got floor to do on my truck, watching with interest.
    Tim_with_a_T likes this.
  27. Thank you for posting that picture. I've been wondering how to finish the bottom of the panel.
    I was thinking of leaving it straight as the original Model A or following the contour of the frame as you did.
    Yours look very nice
    1947knuck and classiccarjack like this.
  28. UPS delivered the new rear inner panels today and I am very pleased with them.
    These look just like the originals do.

    You can see the big difference between what I had before (bottom) and the new ones. (Top)

    I will start working on fitting the new ones in, while the older ones will make the classified ads soon. I am sure they will be fine for a street rod or rat rod.
  29. I've been away for a few weeks. I had a nasty stomach bug that put in the hospital for a couple of days.
    I am now well and ready to move forward.

    The new inner panels sure look good. A few diferences from the ones I bought from Mac's, the metal is a bit thinner and the panel itself is smaller. The smaller part of it wouldn't had been a problem but I already had cut the opening for the larger one.

    I ended up adding material all the way around to fit the already cut opening.
    Also filled all the holes I wasn't going to be needing

    thumbnail_IMG_4841.jpg thumbnail_IMG_4842.jpg
    First dry fit to get an idea for it and to start thinking how I was going to trim the bottom of the panel around the frame.

    Traced the profile of the sub rails and frame to get better visual.
    Decided for trimming the bottom to follow the contour of the frame. Raised the middle bead rolled about 1"

    Raised the middle bead roll 1" and unfolded the bottom.

    thumbnail_IMG_4848.jpg thumbnail_IMG_4849.jpg
    Trimmed some 2x4s to follow the contour of the bottom to allow me to fold the metal over.

    And there it is.
    Spent a couple couple of days getting to this point and happy with outcome. Passenger side should now be faster since I have all the templates and a plan action in place.

    thumbnail_IMG_4851.jpg thumbnail_IMG_4852.jpg
    Sitting in place and ready to start welding it in.
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2019
  30. Peanut 1959
    Joined: Oct 11, 2008
    Posts: 1,850

    Peanut 1959

    Nice attention to detail!

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