Projects NOT THE TYPICAL '30 ROADSTER BUILD

I was able to spend a couple of hours today working on the sub rails.
I drilled the holes for the bolts...easier say that done. Damn HF Step drill bits are only good for a couple of holes before going dull on you.
Once I had the holes done I inserted and welded tubes inside the rails for bolts to go through them...Still have to dress the welds but working as they should.



Left subrail bolted down to the frame for the first time. Everything is still square and working right. Maybe Saturday I can do the right side.

 

Thank you. It hasn't been cut or buffed out yet but looks pretty good just like it is. I didn't want the paint to be too showey, if thats a word. Wanted it to look like an older paint job.

 

My first color choice would be black. If I can get mine final job to look half that good I would definitely go black.
Washington Blue is my 2nd option, knowing that I might not get to that level of quality.

 

Took me a few days off and took the family to Vegas since the daughter is in spring break.
Now back to work on the roadster.
I sleeved the right side subrail for bolts and it is mounting very nice to the frame.


I still got to some final welding and cleaning to do but it is almost done.


Both sub rails are now fully bolted to the frame and supporting, on their own, the weight on the rear and connected to the rear crossmember.


Rear deck lid gaps (with exception of bottom) and doors are still aligned and opening/closing the right way.


This weekend the goal is to weld the rear sub rails to the existing ones and add one or two cross rails.

 

Finished welding both rear sub rails. They are now aligned to the front rails and ready to be welded...but before doing that, I decided to rework the rear braces and the corner supports to ensure the rear stays put and it is nt going to move once I weld the rear rails in....

First, I got rid of the hump as it will no longer need it. Rework the angle of the feet to accommodate the new angle of the sub rails.


Fits in place just right


Reworked the corner support trimming the bottom and removing the hump at the bottom


With a some sandblasting, a little bit more trimming and some spot welding it should go right in place. Now to the other side...

 

Keep on keeping on

 

Not much progress, been working a lot.
Just bought some clecos in preparation for the floors...Love those clecos!



The brace and corner support is now welded in place.

Starting to see a bunch of welds that I will have to dress up before moving on....

 

Finished the right side corner support and bracket.
Now the rear is fully supported and braced on its own



I cur off the original rear cross channel to reuse. I needed some patching of the holes I wasn't going to need and an area where the metal was too thin.
I placed it at the stock location to use the angled floor behind the seat.



Now that the body feels solid in place. I finally started to spot weld the rear subrails to the stock ones.
Looking at it, I am thinking I will have to modify the top hats to have access to that first bolt on the kick up.

 

Started working on the top hats. I decided not to use the ones that come with the kit and fabricate my own to suit the transition between the original sub rails and the new one. Also be able to add a hole for the rear bolt to be tighten.


Started with 1x3 16 and some cardboard for a template.


After a few hours of cutting, trimming, more cutting, welding and fitting...the left side is almost done.

 

You're doing a hell of a job! Looking really good!

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Thank you. Trying to do my best

 

Yesterday, it took me almost all day to fabricate the left top hat.
Today I weld the left one in, fabricated the right one and weld it in place, in half the time.

My welds still need lots of improvement and still need to be cleaned, but for the most part, they are in place and it is time to move on.
I can finally say that I tackled the rear sub rails...


Once I separate the body, I will weld the rails from the bottom.
I am now going to start working on the middle supports.

 

Good to keep tally, as you do this more, you will notice less time spent.

I will keep reading along, I really like what you are doing here. Good job sir!

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Roll, please don't take this as a negative, but you need to set up some offcuts and stuff and just spend time welding things together. There may be someone with more welding experience that lives nearby that could give you some one on one tuition.

You using mig?

The one thing that helped me a lot was getting decent goggles (for gas welding) and a good mask for the mig. Wear glasses if needed, so you can look really straight right into the weld. You really need to see what is going on so you can develop the hand eye coordination that is required.

Then it's just a question of getting the right gas flow, wire speed and amp setting.

Practise, practise, practise.

Mart.

 

Hi Mart,

Thank you for the advice, I do appreciate it.
I am using a MIG and bought a TIG too, but haven't set it up yet. I am in the process of finding a local class, that perhaps I can take to help me get better.
I do agree, practice will a make a difference and have seen my welds getting better than when I started. I now can see full penetration, not very good looking but definitely now penetrating and strong, as they should be.

You are right about coordination, boy is it hard! Wire speed, heat, gas, angle of the nozzle, looking at the puddle....but it is so much fun! I do enjoy doing it very much.

Thank you again for the advice

 

Keep going you will keep getting better and already enjoy the process! I really enjoy making as much as I possibly can and it sounds like you are the same. I am enjoying following your build. Hobo Jim

 

I took her for ride today...to the other side of the garage, that is! I made engine noises while I moved her, so it should count for something

I am going to start working on the corners, rear fender wells and will start fabricating a floor soon, so I could use a bit more space.
In the process, I used the dolly idea from 31Apickup...it worked like a charm and very affordable to make.

 

I’ve been really enjoying this thread and I do the same thing of buying and selling parts to func other parts with a family of 5. I hope to see more progress....


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A second bump.... Reading this makes me so anxious to get my shop built and start building my cars.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I've been working on getting the cross channels lay out out so then I can do the floors. I do not want to use the rear cross channel that came with the Steadfast kit, as it closes the rear of the car and I can see how it can cause issues with drainage.

Here is the piece I am talking about. I don't think my roadster will see much rain but even a simple car wash I can see water draining inside. My goal is to a full carpeted trunk. Water will not seat well with carpet.


My goal is to use the stock curved inner trunk panel and leave the bottom open, as stock, to have any possible water drain as it would in a stock body.
I couldn't find any pictures or info that could guide me on the right path, so after a few failed ideas and attempts, here is what I came up with.
Keeping in mind that I will have to modify the curved panel due to the angle of the new sub rails. and interference of the rear crossmember....

I am starting by fabricating a cross channel wide enough, +7", to go around the rear crossmember.
Since I didn't had any material and had no time to go buy some I used a 3"x1" 16ga I already had. Cut it lengthwise and joint them together.


I cut a 3/4" x 3/4" "L" flange, to be the bottom of the hump, it will be bolted to the crossmember when done...cleco in place for now.
With cupboard I am making templates of what the sides will be like. There so many angles to this thing..I wish I would have paid more attention in math class when I was younger



Tomorrow I should finish my arts and crafts project with the cardboard and should be able to transfer to metal and spot weld in place...we shall see if this works....

 

I've come to enjoy working on this car so much, that I count the minutes to get back to it. Unfortunately, after real work, family, and everyday life, I don't have much time to spend on it , or I am simply too tired to get to it.
I am determine to see her done, so any minute off I get I try working on her.

After cutting all my cardboard templates, I transferred them on to a bunch of left over material I had and was able to get the cover done. Well, spot welded in place, at least.
I going be spending next few days finish welding all this thing. I am going to take my time with it to avoid warping it.



You get a better idea of the angles from the size. The top of the cover is level with the top of the rear cross member.

 

Today was good day! I actually had enough time to dedicate to the roadster and finished welding the cover.


Little by little and switching from one side to the other. Letting it cool down to make sure I didn't warped the metal


After some sanding, careful enough to make sure I didn't cut through...and it is done!


The backside shows good penetration. I am happy!


Channel and cover are cleco in place.
Next on the list is to modify the curve rear panel to fit up to the new cross channel and then start laying out the floor.

 

Looking good! Nice work Hobo Jim

 

Thank you

 

Had some time after work and started working on the curve panel.
Love summer because the days are much longer!


Measured three times, marked it, fold it and cut it.


Fits nice and tight against the crossmember cover


It will secure to the side using a stock hole/bolt and I have to drill a new hole for the relocated tab


I still have the advantage of the stock curve panel, lock location and bumper stops, and it clears the crossmember cover


Side view


Rear panel in place to make sure everything clears. After some minor adjustments, I should be able to cross it off the to-do list.

 

Can metal supplies have such high mark up and be priced so differently from one supplier to the next?
I went on the hunt for a sheet of 18ga to start tracing my floors.
Not making much of it, I went to my local Industrial Metal Supply. This is the only place I really know and where I always go.
I was quoted $92 for the 8'x4' sheet. To avoid hassles in transportation, I asked for it to be cut in half, $30 for the first cut and $15 for any additional one. All this plus tax, of course.

I felt it was a bit high so walked away and started thinking of plan "B". Maybe put it on hold until savings allow me to buy the sheet.

I called Bobco Metals, about 20 miles away, same sheet for $48 and $5 for the first cut and $3 each additional cut. That's a huge difference! The sales person was nice enough and advise not to cut it. Strapped it well to the bed of my truck and save a few bucks more.
I get it, IMS is a cleaner building maybe bigger, waxed floors, and all but that's a huge mark up!



Bead roller and english wheel ready! Floors will follow....

 

That was very nicely done! You have skills, @roll of the dices!

 

I buy all my steel sheets from a local roofing company. No charge for shearing or bending on their brake. The fella in the shop gives me scraps of 16/18/20 ga. pieces that they throw out. They come in handy for those smaller projects.

 

That's awesome. I wish I could find a company here in LA
I am still trying to find someone local that can brake 10ga for me, to make the middle mounts, so far, no luck

 

Thank you!