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Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by roll of the dices, Jan 1, 2019.

  1. ^^^^^yes indeed, I agree with that.
    loudbang likes this.
  2. SEAAIRE354
    Joined: Sep 7, 2015
    Posts: 190


    I’ll third that. But if you insist on the stainless then buy a good flaring tool as the less expensive ones won’t grip the line properly and slip. Then you’ll be spending more money on the nicop as mentioned or another took.

    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
    loudbang likes this.
  3. Thank you for the advice.
    Yes, I am going back and forth between stainless vs NiCopp. The only reason holding me back from NiCopp is completely aesthetics. but price and hardness of material is holding me back from SS.
    I've never worked with SS lines before and only experience I have is a couple double flares on steel this will be my first full system. The ease to work with NiCopp is very tempting.

    I am currently looking for a good quality and affordable 37 flare tool for stainless. Finding one is going to help me make up my mind.
    I am considering Inline Tube's flaring tool and stainless line. I've read this is a good combination with quality results.
  4. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 4,178

    sloppy jalopies

    use a 3" C clamp, clamped so it puts extra pinch on the tubing... it helps
    loudbang likes this.
  5. ccain
    Joined: Jun 13, 2009
    Posts: 411


    I just caught up with this thread. Nice work.

    This thing is rad!
    loudbang likes this.
  6. GordonC
    Joined: Mar 6, 2006
    Posts: 2,087


    Why is it taking so long on making your hood? Is someone else doing it and doing something special. I couldn't get a stock A hood to fit my 31 roadster properly so I bought a 1932 1 piece hood top. (I suspect it had something to do with me making the frame from scratch, even tho I used model A dimensions.) Shortened it, punched it full of louvers, raised the side accent lines to match the A body and voila! It worked! Oh, and a Rustoleum rattle can black paint job too!

    20200526_164917.jpg 20200526_164955.jpg
    tb33anda3rd, brEad, loudbang and 2 others like this.
  7. Thank you Smitty, I will take any advice out there. I will definitely try it.
  8. Thank you! Stay tune will keep updating until it is fully done.
  9. That hood looks awesome and that paint job looks beautiful!
    Looks like a tab in the radiator shell and a bolt holds it down? Can you elaborate?

    Not sure what's going on with my hood....Story of my life! Most anything that I have farmed out it has taken way longer than told, maybe with exception of radiator.

    I placed my order on March 31st....I was told 4 to 6 weeks....I am now at the beginning of week 14th...Unless I call, there is no update, no follow up....Just glad this a job I am getting paid for :)

    I called yesterday and was told the hood was ready and punching louvers today, and done by tomorrow or Friday....Maybe I get to see it sometime next week. Fingers crossed.
  10. Got the brake and fuel lines figured out...I think it should work....Time to go shopping!
    Looks like my fuel line will be around $111 using aluminum and my brake line $337 using stainless steel.
    I still have to figure out the tools that I will be needing. I am debating between Rigid's and Inline Tube's ratchet style 37 flaring tools....Both of these are supposed to be for Stainless steel.

    Finished sketching my door panel.
    Tried to keep the horizontal lines at the same level as the dash and the top of the seat base.
    I like the idea of pocket, saw this in '32 somewhere online. At least, I can stick my registration/insurance card there.


    I will do the kick panels tomorrow...
    I will keep on working on the little things until the hood, brake/fuel parts arrive.
  11. GordonC
    Joined: Mar 6, 2006
    Posts: 2,087


    The hood is held on by a pin in the center which inserts into a chrome cowl band clamp. You can see it in the picture from the front just in front of the gas cap. Also by the two tabs you see coming off the rad shell and then anchored by stock model A hood latches/pull downs that were fastened to the under side of the hood. Pretty simple really. Seems to hold it on pretty tight.

    A tip for you. On your panels keep the upholstery as thin as possible when doing them. I did tuck and roll and it ended up being very difficult to get everything to fit around panels and so forth. The wife and I did my interior. First one and I learned a bit about how good upholstery guys are worth their coin!
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2020
    loudbang likes this.
  12. Finished my door and kick panel layout. Tomorrow, I will trace them to panel board and start working on the "hip panels"...I still don't know how those rear side panels get covered or finished but I will figure something out. for brake and fuel lines are starting to next Friday, I should have it all and start working on that.

    thumbnail_IMG_6138 (1).jpg thumbnail_IMG_6139 (1).jpg thumbnail_IMG_6140 (1).jpg

    Found this write up online for the Rigid tool that I am thinking to buy for the stainless line. Maybe someone finds it useful too.
    tb33anda3rd and Shadow Creek like this.
  13. Hip Panel layout is done. I will be tracing them on to the panel board next.
    Added a couple "L" brackets to the bulkhead so I can support them better and not just stop them at the diagonal wood brace.

    thumbnail_IMG_6141.jpg thumbnail_IMG_6144.jpg thumbnail_IMG_6146.jpg
  14. I got all brake and fuel line parts today :)
    I looked like my kids in x-mass...I couldn't wait to open everything up and give it a try.

    I started with the front....making the holes for the bulkheads and bending and flaring the first brake line.
    Still needs a little bit of massaging to get it where I want it and drill/tap the clips to hold it in place, but over all, it is done.
    The Rigid tool worked really good. Easy and friendly to work with.
    I followed the instructions from the link above to the T and just took my time...
    Tomorrow, I plan to run the line from the master cylinder to the left T...will see how that goes.

    thumbnail_IMG_6169.jpg thumbnail_IMG_6170.jpg thumbnail_IMG_6173.jpg
    tb33anda3rd, loudbang, brEad and 3 others like this.
  15. mkebaird
    Joined: Jan 21, 2014
    Posts: 335


    Thanks for the tutorial. No wonder my stainless flares have been less than perfect. Good luck with them!
    loudbang likes this.
  16. Glad you found it useful.
    I've been following those instruction closely and so far all my flares have come out good and no issues.
    mkebaird likes this.
  17. Slowly I've been routing my brake lines. This has been a crash course for me....learning on the go.
    So far, I got the front lines done all the way to the master cylinder.

    Very close to the motor mount but plenty of clearance still

    Nice and tight against the rail. Still have to put the clips on, holding it with a clam and piece of wood, but will have to remove the motor to get access for the drill.
    Manage to run the line it in-between the vega box and the mount.

    Ran it along the x-member and to the master cylinder.

    Started the rear. I will be using a Harley Davison stop light switch.

    That small line from the "T" to the proportioning valve took me 3-4hrs to make :)....Yes, I am taking my time, measure many times, one bend at a time, one flare at a time....lots of of going back and forth trying it on and taking it off.
    So far, I think it is coming out ok.
    tb33anda3rd, GordonC, brEad and 2 others like this.
  18. Tedious work but you have found the solution. Time and details. It looks great just like all of your other work. Very impressive.
    loudbang likes this.
  19. Thank you for the positive comment.
  20. Good news/Bad news....
    Good news...I finally received the hood from Rootlieb. It looks awesome.
    The louvers came out really nice, they match the rear deck lid ,just as I wanted. '32 hinge with brackets...
    Couldn't check the length, since I have the radiator/grill removed at the moment. but the contour to the cowl is spot on and the belt line matched nicely. Hinged on the sides, in case I ever decide on side panels....Quality work!

    Bad news....It had the '30 flap on it, which I didn't want. Crap!!!
    I spent 1/2 of the night trying to convince myself that I wanted it and that it was going to look fine while looking all the pictures I could find for inspiration. The other 1/2 of the night thinking how to cut it, fold a 90 degree flange, and use leather straps to hold it down....but when the morning came I knew it had to go back....
    I already settled on not having wire wheels because the quick change was ordered wrong, so I can't settle again for the hood.

    Called Rottlieb and explained that something got lost in translation. He asked me to ship it back, He'll cut it and add the hinge on the new location. The customer service was top notch.
    Hood just got dropped off at FedEx....and it is going back.

    I had a hood, at least for a short period of time....This story is to be continued....

    thumbnail_IMG_6188.jpg thumbnail_IMG_6189.jpg thumbnail_IMG_6190.jpg

    Found this roadster while looking at hoods with the flap on...Inspiration! ...Bad Ass!
    loudbang, GordonC and brEad like this.
  21. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 4,178

    sloppy jalopies

    I priced the style flaring tool you pictured... WOW!
    For rodders who haven't bought a hood yet,
    For a cheap hood top I cut down '46-'47 truck hoods to model A size...
    no hood side below the beltline... no side hinge halves...
    You can make it longer if needed...
    I bent a 1" 90* on each side for the hinge flanges, or to bolt together …
    I shortened one of the hood side trim strips and will use it as a center strip...
    '33 chebby master hood side inserts...
    full side 2.JPG feb 23.JPG
    sorry for the hi-jack...
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2020
  22. I always admire your creativity and vision. Wish I could have that talent.
    What are those vents from, in the 1st picture?
    I want my hood prep for hinges for that reason; if I ever put on hood sides, I would like to add '32 chevy or ford vents to it.

    That flaring tool is pricey. I got mine from Home Depot. They had the best price I could find, I had a 10% off coupon and an old gift card that I was able to apply. Free shipping and 1 day to my door step.
    Ended up paying less than $100....worth every single penny! I haven't tested my lines for leaks yet; however, those flares are easy to make and look pretty damn good....from a newbie's perspective.

    Most suppliers I checked with had the same Rigid tool between $130-$170.
    Inline Tube had a copied model, very much the same, for $99 that was advertised as meant for stainless steel but when I reached out to them to place my order they actually didn't recommended it for stainless steel and referred me to their more expensive models. $300+. I ended up buying the tubes, nuts and sleeve tubes from them but passed on the flaring tool.

    Most good recommended units that I was finding online with good reviews....were priced $350-$450, and above.

    So far, and I am not done yet....Very glad I went with stainless steel lines and fittings.
    tb33anda3rd and brEad like this.
  23. Brake line work continues....had to move the thru-frame brake line fittings forward. Instead of mounting them on top of the axle I moved them forward, due to the way I cut the wheel arches.
    thumbnail_IMG_6193.jpg thumbnail_IMG_6194.jpg

    I finished the rear driver side. Routed through the X-member.

    I have to come up with mount for the proportioning valve.

    One more bulkhead to drill thru and one more line to go. Install all the clips to hold the lines in place....Light at the end of the tunnel.
    tb33anda3rd and brEad like this.
  24. Took a step back and decided to add residual valves to the front and rear lines.
    Everything I read said most likely I don't need them but adding them have the possibility of improving an already good system.
    I figured, since I am at it it won't hurt adding them.

    Of course, me being the beginner I am, I thought it was as easy as cutting the lines, a flare here and a flare there...a simple add-on....part of the learning curve.
    At the end, I am very happy with the outcome. I rather have them and not need them than need them and don't have them.
    The Harley Davidson stop light switch arrived and my system is almost complete, minus the last rear line.

    thumbnail_IMG_6213.jpg thumbnail_IMG_6214.jpg thumbnail_IMG_6215.jpg
  25. Finally got my last brake line done!
    Cardboard template to help me keep track of all the bends that were needed.


    So far, putting the bends on the lines was the hardest part...I kept on wanting or finding myself bending them wrong way.
    Got to install the clips and on to the fuel line.
    tb33anda3rd, 33Doll, Aaron D. and 4 others like this.
  26. Brake lines are looking really nice. Great job!
    33Doll and loudbang like this.
  27. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 4,178

    sloppy jalopies

    1933 chebby master... paid $60 for the hood... yup !
    loudbang likes this.
  28. 33Doll
    Joined: Sep 27, 2019
    Posts: 610


    You’re doing such a great job I think you need to come over and do mine!!
  29. Thank you! Almost done with it.
  30. That was a good deal. I haven't seen any up for sale. I check ebay now and then too
    I will buy me a set or a hood when I see one.

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