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Projects NOT THE TYPICAL '30 ROADSTER BUILD

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by roll of the dices, Jan 1, 2019.

  1. 33Doll
    Joined: Sep 27, 2019
    Posts: 508

    33Doll

    So were the original Windshields really that much of a forward Angle?
    Also were the wingnuts for adjusting the rake when the top was down? Or for removing the windshield entirely for that full open feeling?
    I’m not educated much on roadsters.
    Thanks
     
    loudbang likes this.
  2. PASTDUEBILL
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 816

    PASTDUEBILL
    Member

    IMG_1955.JPG
     
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  3. PASTDUEBILL
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 816

    PASTDUEBILL
    Member

    loudbang likes this.
  4. The wing nuts allow you to loosen the windshield and tilt it forward, bur the stops on the upper stanchions keeps it from tilting back.
    windshield.jpg
    The stock position of the windshield is pretty straight and almost forward looking.
     
    loudbang and 33Doll like this.
  5. How much did you leaned it back? I like those side view mirrors
     
  6. 33Doll
    Joined: Sep 27, 2019
    Posts: 508

    33Doll

    Cool!
    I just spent the last 4 hours reading all 43 pages of you’re build!

    (Home with my Appendix taken out Last Night, trying to recover!)

    What a nice Job! But, I think you sell your self WAY to short on your skills, or lack thereof as you mentioned in the beginning! Other then the Crappy Flux-core welder! You are being way to humble!
    Awesome Job! Get a gas Mig Dammit!
    I love my Lincoln 135! Did a great job on my thin patch panels.
    Cant wait to see that H&H Flathead Mill!
     
    loudbang likes this.
  7. Hope you feel better soon and can get back to the 33 Doll in no time. I am staying tuned for the progress and cool story behind it.

    Thank you. I am slowly getting better and trusting my welds a bit more. I still need a lot of practice, especially in the TIG. This project has been a great hands-on school/practice. :) Having a total blast with it.
    I did away with the core flux, ended up selling the Harbor Freight, and got me Lincoln 180HD, with full height tank and all.
    I now have both TIG and MIG. Love the TIG but still need a lot of practice to use it in thin metal. I just don't have much welding to do in the roadster anymore....most of the metal is done, at lest for now.
     
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  8. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 1,798

    1-SHOT
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The newer inverter machines are more user friendly than the older machines like the Lincoln 300-300 which I learned on even my Lincoln 275 is outdated by probably 30 years. It just takes practice stacking beads to get good at it.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  9. Got the new wood bows today.
    I put the original bows in the back burner for now and might end up selling them later on.

    Started fitting the new bows to the top irons....interestingly enough you can see how different the shapes are when compared to the stock one. The front header has the biggest differences in shape, of all. Eventually, I will shape the new header to be closer to the stock header. The stock header has a lower profile rounder front and curve front....

    thumbnail_IMG_6037.jpg

    I dropped the middle bow 3/4" to lower some of the profile and crown. 3/4' higher it looks like a top hat.
    I still have to cut 2" off the back bow and reshape the end of it but want to use some masking tape and trash bags first to double check the look of it before committing to anything.
    thumbnail_IMG_6039.jpg

    ...She folds open and closes with no binding...upper stanchion pins might need some work to ensure the securing screw works easily. I am a Happy camper!
    thumbnail_IMG_6036.jpg
    thumbnail_IMG_6035.jpg

    I can see how driving with the top on is going to get interesting...
    thumbnail_IMG_6038.jpg
     
  10. That is really coming out well! Looking forward to the tape & trash bag top pics.
     
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  11. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 1,798

    1-SHOT
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Sheets work good just use the white ones or Coffey color
     
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  12. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 4,017

    sloppy jalopies
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    yea, I ordered full size and got twin sheets... that is just what I will do with them...
    thanks boys...
     
    loudbang likes this.
  13. I am in the look out for 1940 Ford roadster rear window....If you know of anyone selling one, please let me know.

    I now feel ready to take it apart ,start working on final welding of the irons, reshaping and staining of the wood.
    Plenty of headroom, the shape of the top is pretty good overall and it is fully functional.

    I will need someone in LA to chrome the main irons and powder coat the rest of the irons....any recommendations?

    thumbnail_IMG_6048.jpg thumbnail_IMG_6049.jpg thumbnail_IMG_6050.jpg thumbnail_IMG_6051.jpg thumbnail_IMG_6052.jpg
     
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  14. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 4,017

    sloppy jalopies
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  15. Looking good!
     
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  16. GordonC
    Joined: Mar 6, 2006
    Posts: 1,987

    GordonC
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    LOL! I used a white shower curtain to drape my top irons to get an idea on the profile, but only after I did the masking tape thing. Your car is looking good! Keep after it.

    20170519_171420.jpg
     
    hfh and loudbang like this.
  17. That looks good! How much of a chop do you have? Do you have a rear window in mind?
    I am debating between a '40 Ford or '33 Ford rear window...both have proven to be hard to find :)
     
  18. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 4,017

    sloppy jalopies
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I have a model a roadster size brass rear window frame... inner, outer and most screws...
    trade me something … pix Tuesday if needed...
     
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  19. GordonC
    Joined: Mar 6, 2006
    Posts: 1,987

    GordonC
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    My windshield posts were chopped before I bought the car so I don't know exactly. Best I can figure is a couple inches were removed. I want to use a small rectangular framed window when I get to making the top. I also adjusted the side bar lengths for what I needed. I used head rest posts so I could remove the lower back pivot mount so I could ride without banging my elbow on them when the top is removed. Saw the idea on here some where.
     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2020
    brEad and loudbang like this.
  20. You don't happen to have '33 or '40 rear window.? I am looking for better visibillity
     
  21. The
    The head rest posts is a good idea. I had never seen/heard that one before.
     
  22. GordonC
    Joined: Mar 6, 2006
    Posts: 1,987

    GordonC
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You can see where the pivots mount in this pic. They are just welded to the top of a cut off headrest post. Easy to remove and reinstall. Already removed in this pic.

    20191009_160028.jpg
     
    loudbang likes this.
  23. That is pretty creative.
    Nice looking dash too.
     
  24. GordonC
    Joined: Mar 6, 2006
    Posts: 1,987

    GordonC
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks! I have seen this dash in quite a few rods and really liked it so I figured it wouldn't hurt to put one in my car.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  25. Tying up loose ends...
    Shorten the ends of the main bow by 2", rework the ends and got the wood stained and cleared.
    I am reusing the stock header so I had to sand the years off and refinish.
    thumbnail_IMG_6061.png

    Fired up the TIG welder and got all the top irons fully welded. Working on smoothing everything out.
    TIG makes the job so much easier and cleaner....loving it!
    Everything is on 80 grit now.

    thumbnail_IMG_6060.jpg thumbnail_IMG_6059.jpg thumbnail_IMG_6058.jpg

    For anyone with experience in chroming and powder coating, how smooth does the metal needs to be or does the person doing the chroming and powder coating prefers to prep the piece themselves?
    I am planning to finish it to 400 grit....Still looking for a shop in the LA area that can do the work. Open to recommendations, if anyone knows someone.
     
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  26. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 4,017

    sloppy jalopies
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    With hood orniments the chrome shop doesn't want you to touch it as you make flat spots with the sander... they fill with copper then buff / polish...
    but flat stock should not have that problem... go dices go !
     
  27. Thank you for the info!
     
  28. Took the top frames this morning to get them chromed and powder coated.; hopefully, I will get them back in a week and they come out looking good.
    Finding a place to chrome them without taking them apart proved to be a real challenge...we shall see.

    I also pulled the trigger and bought a '40 Ford rear window. I am very happy, from what I can see in the pictures. I should get in a week or so.
    It comes with original glass and it appears to be in good shape.
    If the company doing the chrome and powder coating for my top frames do a good job...this will go to them next.

    thumbnail_IMG_6062.jpg thumbnail_IMG_6065.jpg thumbnail_IMG_6063.jpg thumbnail_IMG_6064.jpg
     
  29. I've been busy back to work but still finding time to get some of the small items done.
    Started tracing the door panel so I can start playing with design/layout. Found a picture of '32 online, something simple but classy, that I might be using....more to come on that.
    thumbnail_IMG_6108.jpg

    Brake and fuel lines will be next in the list, while I continue to wait for the hood to be made....Golly! That hood is taking forever!
    I've been reading and trying to learn as much as possible about making brake/fuel lines, to keep cost down to a minimum by not buying things and making mistakes I don't need, especially cause all the fittings and shipping can add up.
    37 degrees....47 degrees...inverted flares, -3AN, -6AN....That's what I am dreaming of when I am asleep...

    So far in the plan, brake lines will be 3/16" stainless steel and fuel lines will be 3/8" reduced to 5/16" after the inline filter all the way to the carbs. Fuel line will be aluminum. I will be using AN fittings for both lines....

    I am starting from scratch so I am starting to source a good flare tool for stainless steel and a tube bender....
    This weekend, I put together this line straightener which I will be needing since I will be buying coiled line. At only $20 it works pretty good...most of it was made from scraps

    thumbnail_IMG_6112.jpg
     
  30. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 2,829

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    You may regret the SS brake lines, I would use NiCopp, much easier to work with and considerably cheaper too!
     

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