Projects NOT THE TYPICAL '30 ROADSTER BUILD

Getting the metal ready...should be bead rolling this week.

 

My garage is starting to look like that!
And the car is still mostly together!
Thanks for the tips!

 

Looking good! Keep us posted

 

You know that feeling when the day is almost over, you are dog tired ,and you can stand back, look at it, and know it is almost done?
That's how I felt this afternoon. Cracked open a beer and just enjoyed the moment.

Not bad for being only my 2nd time doing a trans tunnel....and feeling happy


Wanted the lid to have the same beads so everything look like one piece once installed.
Rivet nuts in each corner. The bolts will be replaced at final assembly. I plan on using stainless steel button allen heads through out the entire car.


Not bad! I really like it.
One piece ,with a hinge in the middle. Easy to remove.
I ran out of rivet nuts to secure the tunnel in place...
I am sure once I get the steering column in I might have to trim back some material.


Very low profile and round edges. Just what I was looking for. The boots will give it a nice touch


Easy access!
The best part of this project is being able to look back on it and realize that I made it.

 

Looking good. I like the line about looking back and realising you made it.

 

That's probably the most rewarding part of the building process for me, looking at your own accomplishments.

 

I Think you deserve more than one beer. Go on, have another. Great job sir.
Charlie.

 

That is totally Bitchin!
Curious how you’re going to make a pedal stop, cover, my 33’ had 2 pieces of metal that over lap, with a rubber sandwich thing between, I don’t like it very much.

 

Great job the design and execution of the tunnel, emergency brake bezel, and floor!

 

I am planning on making a cover for it. Similar to the one a model A uses.
Once I get the column located, I will do a cover with a split in the middle for easy removal. I will use rubber from a tire tube to sandwich in between and keep moisture out. Once I lay down the sound barrier, padding and carpet over it, it won't be visible.

 

Pedals found their location. Just need to get the final hardware and can move to he lines.
I will have to wait until the body is off.
Steering column might be next...

Pedal studs in the back are 1/2"-18 thread. There are 3 different sizes in the market...found out the hard way

 

Spent last few days researching how to install the accelerator pedal. I knew I wanted the spoon pedal but had no clue on how to get it done.
I found member Lodaddyo's thread and really liked the way he got his done (picture below) so now, I had a goal in mind. I really like how clean it looks.



I had to start by figuring out how the pedal mounts and how it works, so I used a quick metal template to get a better idea. I started with a '36 pick up pedal...luckily I had a complete set up.
I learned the spring puts a lot tension on the return and having the pedal stick up high like that, is normal, until it gets connected to the carb with the linkage rod... then it will drop down to a more useful angle



Lots of measuring....finally my the first set of lines.
The arm will sit level with the top of the manifold. I am using a two carb Offenhaunser manifold and the ball in the arm of the pedal will line up with the connecting ball in the carb. Hoping for no binding.


3 holes and some grinding later the pedal was in


The pedal was fitting nice and tight. With the one bolt and the pressure against the firewall, I might have not needed a connecting point on the other side...but better safe than sorry.
With no easy way to mount the original hood on the other end, I decided to build another knuckle same as the one next to the spring...just some tubing with a cut off bolt.



Split it down the middle and re-weld so no need to take the pedal apart.


Another hole later, it fits really nice, works super smooth and not going anywhere now.


Pedal is nice and flush against the firewall



Very pleased with the way it looks in the inside. I will be adding a foot rest later


Planning on taking the same idea of the original cover and make something similar to cover the shaft from the outside and keep moisture out...we'll see what I can come up with


And there it is...After all the dust settled, I went back and noted the measurements I used to make it work...maybe somebody else can find them useful

 

Nice work, looking good

 

Thank you

 

Today, I was able to put together a cover for the accelerator shaft. Little bit more of finish work and it should be all done. I used the same dimensions as the original, just an extend version of it.


Nice tight fit to keep any possible moisture out.


It bolts down using the left bolt and I might put a small bolt on each end to keep it in place.

With all pedals done for now, I can move on to the steering wheel/column and box
But before that I need the headers in place.



There is something about a V8 flathead and lakester headers that I really like.


Using a 1-1/2" wood dowel to mock up the steering column. The angle looks to be fine using the original opening in the body. Plan is to use a 30" banjo steering column from Limeworks with a Banjo Steering wheel.


Quick 17" disc made out of cardboard to represent the steering wheel
Trying to find a sweet spot between the top of seat, the shifter going into 1st gear, the door and a 15 degree lean I am planning for the windshield.

So far the outcome of the day....The shifter and the wheel are in each others way. If I move the wheel to the left, the angle on the bottom of the column might not work well with the double joint and edge of the head. I might have to cut down the shifter some and keep the wheel centered.
The distance between the top of the seat and bottom of the wheel is 6". I measured my already tight '29 model A and the distance was 7"...I might need to lower the column by placing it between the pedals and below the stock location...

I am still trying to find out how much is the drop on an '32 column drop...
if anyone knows please help...

 

Lot of measuring today with little cutting type of day.
I reached out to Limeworks to get more accurate dimensions of the column that I am planning to use.
I was debating between a 30" or 33" banjo. I learned the tapered end is 2" and the splined end is 1-1/4" long and the full overall is 30" or 33"



With that info I cleaned up my wood dowel mock up and found the right spot on the floor.
It will have to go between the pedals and I will have to spread the pedals arms some to have a bit more space.



I mocked up the column drop with a drop of 3" on center. I still don't know if that is the right amount but it was the closest I could get from an online search on a '32 column drop. It looks good.



The shifter still needs to be cut down some, to clear the steering wheel. I am set on that 17" banjo wheel.


I have a little over 7" clearance between the seat and wheel and about 7" from the dashboard to the wheel.
I can slide in and out of the car relatively easy.


The vega box and the mock up column aligned right on the spot.


Quick cardboard template, everything seems to line up right. I now have to start buying all the parts,
33" column, '32 column drop and a couple of universal joints.

 

The '29 found a new home.
Mixed bag of feelings...I wasn't quite ready to sell but really needed the space back in the garage and at good chuck of profit, it was the best decision.
When on a shopping spree right away ..more parts coming soon!

 

Lots of rain the last few days. That and work progress has been a bit slow.
With more space now available in the garage, I can now work with the door closed.

Started working on pedal covers. First made a dimple hole for the 1-1/2" column with two pieces of wood and a wood dowel



I cut two halves to make one. This way it can be installed as two pieces.


I still have to spread the pedals apart some, but it is starting to take shape....

 

I had to take a break from all the news and the COVID-19
Got to mock up the '32 column drop and locate the distance I want the steering wheel to stick out.
I will be using a tach and turn signal lever and don't want it to be too crowed.


I will be using this Sun D1 Tach which I found. Luckily was complete with mounting cup bracket and light. I had it rebuild and it is ready to go.
In the other hand, the turn signal, Stat 700, is far from ready...I will be taking it apart and rewiring it and clean it all up.


I like the red lights better than the green ones.


Spread the pedals apart and now they feel much better. Plenty of room down there...
Next few days, I will be doing a bit more trimming on the floor around the pedals and should be able to finish the cover I started last week

 

Finish the pedal cover panel, after final adjustment to the pedals.
Tomorrow I will will be installing the limeworks column and actual teering wheel. No more wood dowel and cardboard wheel.

 

Nice Work!!

 

Thank you!

 

The Limeworks column and Banjo steering wheel fits right at home.
Need to make a few more adjustments but very happy with outcome.


Might bring it up another 1/2" or even an 1"


Need a longer shaft, the 3/4" piece I had was an 1" or so too short, but good enough to see it work...no bidding.


Got good room between shaft and header


The shifter still needs to be cut down some :-(
Maybe give it a haircut and re-thread it for the shifter knob


Something about a banjo wheel that I really like, Very happy to see it come together.
Now, I can sit down next to my daughters, have them make engines noises, steer, and pretend I am driving...

 

Great job.... looks awesome. Can you bend the shift lever a smidge to avoid the cut?

 

What'cha thinking about for a center cap on the banjo? I have been told a Model T hub cap fits real close. I was going to try that when I get my 31 out of storage and back in the new shop one of these days

 

I am still considering all options. I am going to make some cardboard templates and see what it looks like
Once I put it on 2nd gear or reverse, the shifter is closed to the bench seat
I really like the shape of it and height of it, so bending it would be a good way to go, if I can make work without make it look weird with the already there bends.

 

I've been thinking about that one for a while but haven't made up my mind yet. I was not aware of the Model T option...I will look in to that one.

In a perfect world, I would like to use the '37 horn button, but all the searches I've done, on how to make it work and be able to use the Limeworks steering column wire, have come up empty handed
Maybe if I can find one cheap enough to play with it, maybe I can come up with something that works.


I might have to settle for the Limeworks V8 button and call it a day. Not my favorite, but at least I know it works. That's what I used on my '36 truck.

 

spiff...
I couldn't find a '38-'39 banjo wheel's horn button... the boys in the toolroom turned a '35 standard horn button down to the banjo's size... looked good for the price.

 

Curios to see a picture if you might have one.
Is the radius in the '35 very different as a '38-'39? Never seen either one beyond pictures.

 

i'll try and snap a pic Monday... it is flat, and when cut down to size it was left with 2 tiny wings that used to be the light switch...