Got home from work today and decided to start my frame. I've had the the sections cut up and ready to go for a few days now. Just been brushing up on my welding a bit before I bit the bullet. I'm using 3/16" 2x4 box tubing. I don't have a frame table, but I do have a couple sawhorses and a 4 x 8 sheet of 1/2" osb. Bingo cheap frame table. Wasn't sure how well it was gonna work, but with a little patience and planning. I was able the get the frame spot on perfectly level. All it really took was half a dozen clamps and a level. Over a little more than 10 feet, the rails run out about 3/8" when clamped together at the nose. not too bad for my first attempt I think. Tommorow and sunday I should be able to get the front and rear suspension set and maybe even the engine put in if I get really motivated Well other than some boogered looking welds What do you guys think. Not bad for a young punk kid?? If you click on the pics, it will blow them up front horns, altered model a knock-offs finished product
Looking good. Homemade Z'ed frame is no trivial project. Best of luck and we'll stay tuned. What's the final vision for the car? -S
I'm planning on making a home-made body to resemble a model a tudor. BUT, just in case I don't like what I end up with, I am making everything to fit a real one. I know a lot of people scoff when you mention "home-made body," but I want to give it a try, what the worst that could happen, ruin $200 worth of steel? I've done worse things. I still need to add fitch (?) plates at the weld points for strength. I stick welded the frame, I just feel better about the penetration I can get from it. I know a lot of guys use their mig machines for this, call me a nervous guy if you want.
I still need to add fitch (?) plates at the weld points for strength. I stick welded the frame, I just feel better about the penetration I can get from it. I know a lot of guys use their mig machines for this, call me a nervous guy if you want.[/quote] I don't see any reason not to stick weld as you are. It will be plenty strong if the penetration is right. I used to tap this frame material w/5/16-18 thread for a number of bracket & body mounts. Using flitch plates your joints should be fine. BTW the frame horns look great!
Thanks, the tapered part is 9" shorter than an actual model a frame. I did that so it would fit my front cross member with as much contact area as I could
Spent the afternoon messing with the front suspension. I'll put the rear in tomorrow and see what it looks like on the ground A side note: may I reccommend anyone building a garage or shop install radiant floor heat. It's single digits outside but the concrete is 74*. less than a dollar a day to heat my 680 sq. ft. shop. I know a good plumber in the northeast ohio area who can do it for ya!
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