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Nostalgia dragster, thoughts ?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Pinchecharlie, Aug 16, 2013.

  1. Looks like a nice car. When it was built in 64, was it built with the shoulder hoop extended up like that?
     
  2. cj92345
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 154

    cj92345
    Member
    from so-cal

    rear was redone, frame was stretched 4in at the rear diff, hoop and shoulder bars added.
    you can see where it was stretched in this cockpit photo above the rear end housing
     
  3. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,110

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    There is a spot on the SFI tag for it although I have never see the book on what the spec entails. My frames start at the 7.50 spec.

    It might have to do with S/G -S/C whereas some of those cars although run an index (8.90) their speed (200mph) bumps them out of spec. This spec keeps the cars that run normal speeds for the ET from haveing to build new cars, but primarily rear engine and door cars.
     
  4. That makes sense. I've always seen either 10.0 and slower, no cert, and up to 7.50, or 6.0.
     
  5. Or build a flatty for it and go out and keep her above 10.0.... just a thought! then have fun.............
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  6. Pinchecharlie
    Joined: Nov 2, 2012
    Posts: 72

    Pinchecharlie
    Member
    from Montana

    I finally got some strait answers and a bad phone picture of the tech inspectors sheet. The car needs a shoulder loop, up right bars in the rear, a bar in the middle of the frame between the front axle and motor plate and some diaganol bracing in between upright bars on the frame . Ill try to post pictures, our div chassis tech guy said he has only passed one car from the day in a long time and it was chrome moly, said he's never been able to pass a mild steel frame. We are in a small environment so probably not to many have come by. anyway would make a fun cackle or wall art or someone with the skill could fix her up. iam going to offer him some cash and see. if one of you might want it pm me ill give you his number
     

    Attached Files:

  7. It's probably worth a couple grand in parts, front axle, steering, wheels, etc. The steel frame is a bummer though


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  8. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,110

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    Is the frame CM or Mild steel???

    If the frame is CM and since some tubes have to be added, changing the shoulder hoop is not a big deal, I have done it before,and its a bit of work. If a customer had already bought this car and wanted to do the fixes, if the rest of it was not buchered I would say that he was looking at $2000-$2500 to be able to get it tagged
     
  9. First post says steel, I took it as mild steel, not CM.

    Dre, gotta ques. A lot of these old cars are butt welded where the shoulder hoop comes together behind the driver, and same area in the lower rails. How do you remedy this? Rules state that butt welds need to be sleeved 3" per side of joint. The twi I've had my hands in were like this. I cut the cars apart and sleeved the joints. Both were certified to 7.50 and the inspector never even glanced at it.
     
  10. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,110

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

    OK, looking at the back of the chassie and it has a single "spine uprite" between the upper and lower hoops then that classifies as the butt weld being supported and no sleeve is required. If the spine uprite forms the lower butt bar and rear cage uprite and then the upper and lower hoops weld to it the that in not a butt weld. If there are 2 bottom rails that come up to form the rear uprites and then the rear cage uprite is welded on top of the shoulder hoop at the split, then that weld is supported and no sleeve is needed. Its very hard, near imposable to sleeve a round back shoulder hoop because its really not a perfect arc, the bends come to a point thau have to be supported by an uprite to be legal
    A square back chassie affords more room for the driver, and in that case because there is a straight section between bends, I will split a piece of tubing and incert in there to act as an alignment sleeve holding the 2 sections together as I build. If I still use the single uprite for the spine or the single cage uprite then no rosete welding of the sleeve is needed. If I use the bottom frame rails as double rear uprites AND utilize a 6 point cage with 2 rear cage uprites , then that section must have rosetes to indicate that there is a sleeve present as support for the weld.
     
  11. Pinchecharlie
    Joined: Nov 2, 2012
    Posts: 72

    Pinchecharlie
    Member
    from Montana

    Frame is mild steel. talked to him today he's more than willing to have the car inspected again and was interested in some other ideas as well. Think ill pick it up just for fun and the experience. if it doesn't work out the price is so low wont kill me. Thanks again for your help wish I had enough dough for one of yours or Roos but iam a little bit short!
     
  12. Well damn, I guess I just like to do things the hard way! When I read the spec, I didn't realize that the single spine uprite was a proper support. I literally cut the cars in quarters, machined sleeves that would follow the radius, and welded it all back up and added rosette welds!


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  13. dreracecar
    Joined: Aug 27, 2009
    Posts: 3,110

    dreracecar
    Member
    from so-cal

  14. I know, I'm a dumbass


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  15. SKULL ORCHARD
    Joined: Jul 22, 2009
    Posts: 431

    SKULL ORCHARD
    Member
    from KS
    1. The Gas House Gang

    Pinchecharlie; You need to make sure if You want to race the HAMB DRAGS it has to have a LS style small block in it. MARK
     
  16. KiwiGav
    Joined: Aug 13, 2013
    Posts: 8

    KiwiGav
    Member

    Pinchecharlie: i have sent you a P.M
    Thanks
    Gav
     

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