Projects No spark from coil, no start

A brand new manual was about 35.00 a year or two ago. I wouldn't pay more for one because it has "patina".

 

Exactly My point thanks

 

Lol, yep I hear ya. I have found reprints and cd's but have no way to use cd, as I have no laptop. So they don't do Me any good. Now reprints they seem to be bouncing around in price. I saw a few on ebay for $17.99 thinking of snagging one of those to help get things along

 

Well so far I've had the ol girl pushing 75mph highway, so I think I'm doing alright. I don't take her out much on the highway though. Just around town to stores and such and back home.

 

Found a (twin barrel) or 2 bbl carb with manual choke like Mine here at My bosses yard and he's got a bunch of them laying sround. So he gave Me one to see if I can get the adaptor for it and see if I can match it up and see what the difference may be.
Took some pics (before shots) gotta clean it up and get the rebuild kit for it. So hoping that it works Im kind of excited about it!

 

Went looking around again and came across a couple other carbs, One is a holley 2 barrel with hand choke, next one is a 4 barrel, and last is a Rochester 2 barrel. Im l'm leaning more towards the holley but not sure if 2 barrel or 4 barrel will work best for My 235.
I'm thinking the 2bbl, but wondering if that will just make it a gas hog?
Or if it will improve the performance as far as better mpg and getting out of her own way?
Need to know asap cus I've got to pay for which ever one by tomorrow.
Thanks in advance, you're all a great help to Me and I am so glad that I found this forum.
Will be checking back frequently.
Have a blessed day all

 

Here are electronic copies of most Chevy manuals from that time period.
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/index.html

 

It's like a recipe, double the amount of baking powder won't make a better cake.
The carb cfm is matched to the engine.
I'll never forget years ago guys putting a Holley 850 double pumper on a stock 78 Camaro 305. Gas was running out the tailpipe.
75mph with that rear gear is imho pushing it. I don't think putting a 2 barrel on it is going to help. You'd have to have headwork done for better flow, cam, header, intake, better ignition, etc.
I'd be happy the way it is.

Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk

 

Unless you can find a two-barrel intake, the two-barrel will probably run WORSE than the one-barrel.

Watch NASCAR? Think restrictor plate engine.

Now, if you do find a two-barrel intake, depending on the two-barrel, it MIGHT run as well as the single barrel on an otherwise stock engine.

You might SLIGHTLY improve the otherwise stock engine by going to a slightly larger (internal venturi) single barrel. Carter, Stromberg, Zenith all made somewhat larger single barrel carbs, as did Rochester for the 261.

Jon.

 

That's ok for a 261, but Mine is a 235. Or does this matter?
Thanks

 

For the 235, would suggest the single barrel, with the single barrel intake manifold.

Check the internal venturi size of your Rochester, and look for a Carter or Zenith with maybe 1/16 larger ID venturi, assuming engine is basically stock otherwise.

Or, three much smaller single barrels can gain a few horsepower and look great at the same time.

Depends on what you want, and how much you want it.

The design of the 235 cylinder head is such that 3 smaller carbs will perform better than either one large or two medium.

Jon.

 

Yes My engine is oem stock as it sits. I was considering doing a dual intake with 2 Rochester or maybe 2 holleys , they are all 2bbl carbs and My boss says that the 2bbl beats out a 1bbl hands down.
I'm still new to all this so bear with Me lil bit as I learn as I go

 

I will withdraw, would not wish to get you in hot water with the boss.

Jon

 

Lol well he acts more like My dad than a boss but he's pretty cool.
And I appreciate everyone thst offers i put to help. So pleaee don't bow out, I like learning as I go

 

That old 235 won't make any decent power unless you up the compression [which is a challenge on those engines with valve/piston clearances]
So you're better off making it more civilized than powerful.

Get rid off the Rochester B 1barrel [ they were a POS when new] and swap it for a "Carter YF" off a 250-300 Ford engine. It will be night and day difference.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Ford-C...gines-6-Cylinder-1975-82-Vacuum-/172233978150
While you're at it , do an electric choke conversion.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-C...=item5d6100161a:g:hpUAAOSwFqJWom1e:rk:10:pf:0

The problem with 2 x 1 barrel carbs is it usually does away with the heated manifold. And the vehicle becomes a dog at part throttle [flat spot etc]

 

Mounting, throttle linkage will be problematic.

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A good place for a later model throttle cable setup.

 

I got My carb issue taken care of .. the rotten Rochester was pissing out the side somehow so it's junk. So now onto next project... I took out the old 4.56 ring and pinion and now I'm looking for a 4.10 or something close to keep the torque as well as gain some speed.
Any ideas to what year make model will best fit My truck?
I tried a Dana 4.10 but the pinion is wrong. Mine has a clip on the end and the Dana doesn't.
Hoping I can find a good cross over and swap out My old dog r & p

 

Does your truck have a removable center section in the rear axle? If so, grab one out of a late sixties to early seventies Chevy 3/4 ton. Most of those have 4.10s. No need to swap a ring and pinion when you can just pull that and change it. Refer to posts #161 & #235. Those came with an Eaton HO 72 just like your truck came with. There are no aftermarket gears available for your rear. If your truck does not have a removable center section, someone may have swapped in a GM 14 bolt.

 

It's a 10 bolt with split diff (front and rear) are removable.
I have the entire thing out and it's got a 4.56 in it and it is dog slow.
I'd like to get a better gear ratio that is not so sluggish,. However, I still want to keep My torque POWERHOUSE and be able to keep up with traffic.
If at all possible, I would consider swapping My rear axle assembly, but again I need the torque (powerhouse) as well as speeding up My truck.
Thank you kindly for your time and response.
I look forward to reading more advice and ideas

 

Leave the rear-end ratio alone.
Put a S10 T5 transmission in it [it should bolt up to where a Muncie 318 originally was]
If not ,use a car bellhousing then it will

The 0.72 O/D 5th with the 4.56 rear would have the same overall ratio as a 3.28 rear
Plus you have 4 lower gears instead of 3 and synchro in first

Your old blueflame only makes 140hp [135 for trucks] and 215 ft/lbs torque so you won't break the s10 box
The power /torque comes from the front and the 4.56 rear gives it a fighting chance

You will get more gains in todays driving conditions with the trans swap than modifying the engine or swapping the rear end ratio

 

In your case, the T5 makes perfect sense. My '59 is an original 4wd, and I don't want to change those parts in my driveline, (and it has a big block), so I am running 4.10's in my original front and rear housings. Those 4.10's both came from 1971 Chevy 3/4 ton pickups.

 

Sounds good. Thanks much. I am hoping to get more umph out of her and still be able to tow with her when I need to haul trailers, such as My boat and utility trailer etc.
What year s10 should I look for?
Thanks

 

The only thing I'm wondering now is,. Will My emergency brake (drum) that is attached to the back/tail of the current transmission still be able to bolt back into place?

Since I just had the e-brake (drum) rebuilt and don't want it to go to waste.
It will be great if it will go back in place with the t5. I just want to make sure before I get too far ahead of Myself

 

It doesn't really matter, but you need a mechanical speedo drive in the tailhousing.
So it would probably be easier to get a pre-'88 Non WC.

You can swap tailhousings and speedo drive from earlier Non WC to a later WC transmission.
But you cannot change an existing electric speedo drive to mechanical [the Mech drive boss is mounted offset to the tailshaft]

 

Ok, so 85 and older for the t5 then?

And ya lost Me on the WC and non WC transmission.

 

I corrected it to pre '88
[And I meant it to be S10 T5 from a Chevy/GMC S10 so the shifter will clear the bench seat in your truck]

WC is World Class an Non World Class [there is a negligible difference in strength]y
The later ones were called WC to separate them.

Non WC have straight roller bearings and brass syncro rings [like a Muncie M22]
WC have tapered rollers and fibre lined syncro rings

Because of the bearing differences the main cases are also different [the tailhousings are swappable]

 

Yeah, I just googled that and was reading about it .. which of the 2 are a better choice for My 235 to match up, And to hold up for torque speed and towage?

 

The strength difference is negligible .
But an early Non WC increases your chances of getting a mechanical speedo drive [most WC's were electric]

The Higher the ratio , the higher the torque rating.
So a granny 1st gear trans has less torque rating than a closer ratio [High 1st] trans. This goes for all transmissions.
So a V6 S10 is the better choice if possible

 

Ok. And yes definitely want the mechanical speedo.
Thank you