No Kidding!!! To many times I've heard this story " I WAS LEANED OVER THE FENDER AND WICKED MY THROTTLE AND NEXT THING I KNEW WE WENT THROUGH THE GARAGE DOOR AND OUT INTO THE STREET.
Thanks to everyone here giving me some great ideas I ran a jumper wire from the brake light switch since I knew that was getting power, I then disconnected both taillights and attached jumper to each taillight separately. Each brake light came on when I did this and NO blown fuse. So the short must be in the power wire going to the taillights right? Can I just run a new power wire from the switch back to the lights? Thanks Again
I'm guessing here, but I'll say your short is someplace between the brake light switch and the turn signal switch. The train goes like this,,, Fused power into the brake switch---- Out of the brake switch into the turn signal switch--- Out of the turn signal switch to the high side filaments of the brake light bulbs. You bypassed the run into and out of the turn signal switch and it worked. You also bypassed the run back to the tailights so it's not to be said its for certain but it's a good bet the run to and from the turn signal is the problem.
I have a later year stock GM column it has the turn signal switch attached to the lower part of the column. The problem is no wires are attached to it?? The car has been re-wired with an EZ wire kit however over time things may have bee added ( A/C, stereo, power seats, fans ) Darn thought we solved the problen
The actual turn signal switch is just under the steering wheel. You're probably looking at (if you have an ignition key in the column) the ignition switch, or neutral safety switch. Picture of the column and not hooked up switch would be helpful.
Do you have operational turn signals on the vehicle? If so what turn signal switch do you use? There's wires attached to that switch if the turn signals work.
If you remove the wheel, you'll find the round part, towards the bottom of the column under the dash you'll find the square part. The flat wires travel inside the column's outer tube
I had a repetitive although inconsistent problem with brake light fuses blowing that went on for a couple years and drove me nuts- Thought I had it sorted out a couple times and it kept re- occurring- turned out to be the turn signal switch wiring inside the steering column had rubbed through and was shorting out against the inside of the steering column tube . Replaced the switch and wiring inside the column and presto- back to sleeping at night. You never know where these pesky problems will show up. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
To actually remove the switch so you can properly inspect the wire you need to remove the plastic coupler on lower end where it plugs into the rest of incoming wires. There is an actual tool to release the tab holding the terminal end in the plastic housing. Where your going is where I would have started. The Wizzard
When I got home tonight I hooked up both taillights that I had disconnected so I could run a jumper from the brake light switch. (see above reply ) I ran the jumper and I have brake lights and turn signals and no blown fuses !! although the right brake light seems, a little dimmer than the left side. Tomorrow I'll install a new permanent wire. I'll let you know how it went, Thanks again to everyone !!
Repowering the brake light is simple. You can go directly from the battery or from the battery side of the starter solenoid, or any handy on with ign off power source. Cut a piece of 12 gauge wire long enough to reach from power to brake light switch. Add an inline fuse holder (15 amp should do) then attach connectors appropriate to terminals to the ends. Find tape off, lable, and abandon in place, the current power wire. Attach the new power wire to the switch terminal, the attach the other end to power and install the fuse. You now have a new fused,dedicated brake light power source. You can test the circuit by bypassing the switch and connecting the wires temporarily together. If the fuse blows, then you have a short some by where between the switch and the light fixtures. Typically the wires travel up the A pillar under the headliner, into the trunk near the package shelf. Normally there will be some connectors there where the wires enter and then split to right and left lamps. Check these connectors and assure the wires on either side of the connectors are in good shape. Also check for worn insulation near where the wires pass by or through any body panels. Should be grommets but who kniwdsafter 50 + years.
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