Projects Joe's American Graffiti Coupe with a Man A Fre (Milner Coupe Clone)

Different setup but that's equally cool!

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Don't lock the fast idle cams in random positions. Make sure they're all positioned such that they will allow for the lowest possible curb idle speed. With the idle speed screws backed out, the throttle plates should be completely closed. Next, slowly screw them back in until all clearance is removed and the throttle plates just begin to open. Then give them all maybe another quarter turn to give the carbs a similar starting point for setting your final idle speed adjustments.

 

I know and I didn't let that stop me.

 

Ok. Sounds good. We'll look at them again when we start setting them up. Thank you!

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Could you please send me pics of how your cam and idle screws are set up. I'm trying to nail down exactly how it's supposed to work. Thanks!

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Ok. I'll look closer at mine and compare. Thank you!

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Another way to look at it is heavy end down. Also on your photo @Nicholas Coe that notch that's up right now is a stop for cam to rest on at full warm up when working as engineered.

 

Thanks. This is an early 2G with no choke setup so I'm try to know where to lock down the cam at idle. I think I understand what was previously said.

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In your photo above on this page there is what appears in size to be a 5/16 bolt (upper left of photo under air clean/scoop. That is where the choke shaft went before being modified.

 

Was the 2G a manual choke carb? Hopefully more knowledgeable people will let me know. I didn't think these had much of a set up choke at all.

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Ok. I guess having 4 chokes would make a complicated situation more complicated here. Thanks!

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After tuning one in the 60s some things to remember you have a system that is close to a IR manifold so need a carburetor that can match one cylinder cfm flow. A 461 head each intake port will flow 250 cfm so you have 4 cfm carbs. A 1000 cfm on a 327 with a regular intake is way to much where all cylinders would see that much. With carbs that close to the intake valve the throttle response is very quick. once set up they are reliable I wish I would have kept track of the jetting we used it was a Isky 505T camed 301 in a Devon sports car

 

Ok. It definitely is a totally different setup than most. Thank you for your insight. I do love the look of it.

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Should I change this distributor to a dual point? Is there really any benefit? I've considered changing to a modern distributor but my 1962 tachometer would need to be replaced. Any more opinions?

I tend to lean towards Moriarity's opinion that a points distributor would be just fine as long as it is properly maintained.

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Yes sir!
I think it's my inexperience that leads me to question everything. Thanks for the support!
We're reassembling and tuning tomorrow!

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This morning we will start adding the carbs and linkage. Then on to tuning. Wish us luck! Many more questions are sure to follow. Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread. Hopefully it will help someone else with a Man-a-Fre.

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I have a few Rochesters lying around, I could post some pictures of the choke cam and Moriarty’s washer suggestion in the morning if it will help you.


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Sure! Anything is appreciated!

Thank you.

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Hey man, not trying to be an ass, but you need a uni-syn, I don't think you are versed well enuff to use the old hose technique. Personally I would divorce all the chokes, you can pump the gas pedal a few times in the winter. the carbs need to be the same, did you get the ignition problem fixed ? Set all the butterflies with a wire to the same spec....?

 

Yes Sir!
We've got a Uni-Syn. The chokes has been removed. Hopefully today we will get the carbs on and working together. Thanks for the heads up.

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It looks like you have the washer thing figured out from the photo in post #121 but the cam is upside down. It goes like this; (not that it really matters because at this point it's just a stop) I would put a drop of LockTite on the threads too, if they come loose while you are out driving around it will shut the butterflies completely and it won't idle.

 

Thank you. More problems. Carb in passanger rear is leaking massive fuel into engine. Found after hours trying to find an O ring for the thermostat housing.

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What pressure are you running on the fuel to the carbs? Needle seat would be suspect in that offending carb. I ditched my OE seats on my 348 and replaced them with upgraded Grose pieces. Seemed to help a lot with 3 1/2 lbs of pressure (regulated) with a Holley unit.

 

Thanks for the reply. We cleaned up the carb and things got better. Right now we are going to begin tuning the carbs....

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Here's our reassembly pics prior to tuning....

No leaks and all seems to be much better. No more blue or grey smoke. Just black smoke at idle and popping at speed.

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Did John run clear yellow hoses? Prepare for folks telling you they are dangerous and will harden and crack. Replace with good rubber rated for modern fuels.

 

No. That's gasoline staining. They were added from chemical resist clear hoses. Should be able to last a very long time before they begin to decompose.

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