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Newer cars worth scavenging parts from

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 63comet, Apr 22, 2013.

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  1. nobby
    Joined: Jan 8, 2006
    Posts: 1,206

    nobby
    Member

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    98-04 grand cherokee rear brakes
    non c-clip
    12''
    16 inch wheels
    5 on 5'' pcd
    forward mounting calipers
    park brake cables in front
    bearing end turned down to fit 3'' tube
    chrysler hub bore.
    voyager 6.5'' by 16'' 5 on 5 '' pcd steelies -
    or the whole rear end

    astro 5 on 5'' 11 15/16ths front rotors
    50.8 and 60 point something bearijngs, maybe need a 2'' to 3/4 outer bearing
     
  2. mustangmike6996
    Joined: Apr 7, 2013
    Posts: 147

    mustangmike6996
    Member
    from the D

    explorer rear axle. super cheap posi/disc upgrade. (picked mine up for $175)

    I enjoy the fact that everyone is so traditional about hot rodding here. Honestly, everyone has a different definition of "hot rodding" my personal opinion... stay away from off the shelf items. re-utilize a better part with any fabrication means necessary. I know my idea of hot rodding is frowned upon with the way this site operates but using parts from any year vehicle keeps things interesting and always challenges everyone to find better ways to do things.
     
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  3. tylercrawford
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 726

    tylercrawford
    Member
    from Buford, GA
    1. S.F.C.C.

    The only parts I've sourced have been rear ends and fans.

    Explorer 8.8s with the discs are great.

    Also, the mid 90s taurus fans are a great single electric fan option and the late 90s contour/mystique dual fans are awesome for a factory deal. They even have a built in thermostat switch if you are into that.

    Outside of that . . . small alternators, radiators, pedals, lights/fuses (my local pullapart doesn't charge for fuses) . . .
     
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  4. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 9,814

    BJR
    Member

    3rd row van or Suburban seats for pickups or open cars. Easy way to get cheap seats with good upholstery.
     
  5. Ned Ludd
    Joined: May 15, 2009
    Posts: 5,025

    Ned Ludd
    Member

    Well said.


    • Disc brakes: perhaps not 100% topical but some high-spec models do have sexy brakes.
    • Hydraulic brake servos might be adaptable, useful for huge-cammed engines or applications where a vacuum servo would be out of place.
    • Bolt-on stub axles from the back of front-drive cars may have 1001 uses elsewhere.
    • IRS final-drive units: perhaps not as convenient as regards ratios but may be compact, light, and strong.
    • Suspension springs of all sorts.
    • Manual gearboxes from rear-drive cars and light trucks.
    • Large-diameter steel wheels: many can be disguised effectively with a small application of imagination.
    • Seats: some still bolt to the floor rather than the cills and tunnel.
    • Bits and bobs from multi-link suspensions might find fortuitous uses, e.g. odd-shaped forged alloy arms, etc.
    • Sheetmetal: there might just be interesting curves or character lines.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2013
  6. lunchboxscuff
    Joined: Nov 25, 2007
    Posts: 72

    lunchboxscuff
    Member
    from Ojai,ca

    I have been told that the electric fans from the mercury sabel and ford taurs or any car with a very small grill are nice to use since they have a higher cfm rating with having such a small grill.
     
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  7. Post Apocalyptic Kustoms
    Joined: Oct 21, 2012
    Posts: 479

    Post Apocalyptic Kustoms
    BANNED
    from Outside

    Rear ends and transmissions are about the only thing that might be useful from newer junk.
     
  8. lunchboxscuff
    Joined: Nov 25, 2007
    Posts: 72

    lunchboxscuff
    Member
    from Ojai,ca

    oh and also if you have a car with shaved handles, the trunk poppers on the 90's cadillacs work great.
     
  9. ev88f
    Joined: Jan 29, 2010
    Posts: 371

    ev88f
    Member

    S10s have a pretty nice fuel filter holder on the frame
     
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  10. Ever looked at the inside door handles from a 96 and back Chevy van?

    They're small, very thin, mount with three screws, and you could use them in a Model A door and still roll the window up and down.

    For that matter, gut the whole damn door, everything but the latch you could adapt to a Model A and the latch itself should work in anything late 30s on up. Bear claw latch and power locks were an option.

    You can also try the 97-up vans, but the latches in those are plastic parts and I've already seen older cargo vans where guys had bolted shut the side doors because the latch was broken. But they do have a nice sanitary overhead speaker mount in the back on the nicer ones. And the brake pedal unit in these the pedal has a big offset to the right, which might let you run a firewall master in an early car and still clear a V8, or in an odd application like '50s Pontiacs where the defroster is in the way of a straight up hanging pedal mount.

    Those cable power window kit deals you see in the magazines? Just open up the doors of a GM midsize sedan from around 96-2006. Same thing and in a you-pick you can buy the whole damn door for $45 or so.


    S10/Colorado 4x4 rearends are the right width for a lot of early cars and a hell of a lot easier to find than the old stuff.

    I'm sure there are lots more parts that a guy can use. Sometimes you just have to go look and see what might work for your car.


    It's easy to tell reading this thread who actually builds cars and who doesn't.
     
  11. lukey
    Joined: May 27, 2009
    Posts: 668

    lukey
    Member

    Weather proof wiring connectors.
    Exhaust pipes (many are 2" or 2 1/4" with mandrel bends).
    Aluminum driveshafts in mustangs, camaros, and small trucks).
    Electronic trunk openers.
    Timed, dimming dome lights.




    Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
     
  12. Dexter The Dog
    Joined: Jun 27, 2009
    Posts: 195

    Dexter The Dog
    Member

    Pontiac Fiero has a nice stubby little steering column. Many were tilt with typical GM cruise functions but they're also easy to find without. All Fiero's were floor shift so they're clean looking that way. They bolt onto a dash crossmember so they're perfect for small spaces like the classic "Street Rod" style bodies.
     
  13. ago
    Joined: Oct 12, 2005
    Posts: 2,199

    ago
    Member
    from pgh. pa.

    I think the middle seat from Chrysler mini van.


    Ago
     
  14. ididntdoit1960
    Joined: Dec 13, 2011
    Posts: 1,030

    ididntdoit1960
    Member
    from Western MA

     
  15. ago
    Joined: Oct 12, 2005
    Posts: 2,199

    ago
    Member
    from pgh. pa.

    Parking brake handles, used the ratchet assembly and fab up SS handle. Electric trunk release on big Chyrsler is very strong. seat tracks. bucket seats with removable headrest.



    Ago
     
  16. Mike51Merc
    Joined: Dec 5, 2008
    Posts: 3,856

    Mike51Merc
    Member

    Trunk latch release cables from Japanese cars.
     
  17. BootleggerMatt
    Joined: Aug 17, 2011
    Posts: 258

    BootleggerMatt
    Member

    I know a 1983 S-10 4x4 rearend is just about perfect for a 53-54 chevy. Has the same wheel bolt patten and everything, and being 4x4 comes with a posi-trac and about a 3.47 rear gear that works great on the highway
     
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  18. Fairlane Mike
    Joined: Sep 21, 2010
    Posts: 389

    Fairlane Mike
    Member

    Hell, there's all kinds of stuff, just read the preceeding, myself; '78, '79 Ford pick-up steering columns, especially the tilt ones! Rear ends; can't be real picky now; the days of gettin' a narrow 9 inch, ('57, '58, '59 Fords for practically nothing are long gone!), engines, well I still would like to take a Ford Modular V-8 and "deelectronic" that thing; put a carburetor and adapt a '36 style distributor on one head!! Old Skool, Baby!! I'll probably die before I ever get that done!! Ha!!!
     
  19. Rat.Racer
    Joined: Mar 11, 2013
    Posts: 417

    Rat.Racer
    Member
    from Maryland

    ...:eek:
     
  20. Vacuum reservoirs for your wipers or power brakes, can be found in many newer cars.
     
  21. x 2...
     
  22. 57countrysedan
    Joined: Oct 28, 2012
    Posts: 370

    57countrysedan
    Member
    from NY

    What about early 90s gm v8s? Grab that motor an harness got a nice fuel injected motor that wont be impossible to work on. Parts at napa! And explorer rears. Got steel explorer rims and tires on the rear of my car.


    Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
     
  23. 57countrysedan
    Joined: Oct 28, 2012
    Posts: 370

    57countrysedan
    Member
    from NY

    Or even old mustangs. 5.0 or 4.6. Grab the whole thing and you got a nice drivetrain.


    Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
     
  24. the-rodster
    Joined: Jul 2, 2003
    Posts: 6,945

    the-rodster
    Member

    If you're running and open wheeled flathead roadster, then yeah, the local pull-a-part has nothing for you.

    But if you're building a shop truck, a custom, 60's driver, etc. you can still find some parts...

    Engines, differentials, transmissions, driveshafts, gas tanks, seats, steering columns, brake pedals, etc.

    Rich
     
  25. castirondude
    Joined: Jan 26, 2012
    Posts: 496

    castirondude
    Member

    The E4OD transmission is nice, it has a lower 1st gear than a c6, is just as strong, and has an overdrive. If you get one that's 89~92 model year it has a regular speedometer hookup. You can buy a fully programmable standalone controller so you can have the shift pattern any way you like it, no need to mess with springs and modulators

    If you're not too high on power the AOD is very nice too, no electronics required and easy parts availability

    Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
     
  26. Dexter The Dog
    Joined: Jun 27, 2009
    Posts: 195

    Dexter The Dog
    Member

    I had a 2000 Pontiac montana with 5 individual pull out seats in the back. It was an option when we ordered it.
    The two from the third row would have been perfect for any small confined area. THey were only about 16 or 17 inches wide
     
  27. JEM
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 1,040

    JEM
    Member

    Engines? Not too much period stuff left, lots of SBCs, if you want a SBF the '96-01 Explorer 5.0s are roller blocks with GT40/GT40P heads, '94-95 trucks get you a good roller-block 351W (pull the intake and make sure, some weren't) shortblock but crap heads. 3.4/3.8 Camaro V6s, late split-port 3.8 Mustang V6s, 4.0 Ranger/Explorer V6s might make nice rod motors if you can keep the hood closed. I won't mention all the Lexus V8s...

    Transmissions? T5s, AX15/Toyota W55/W58/NV 3550 depending on what you're trying to do With some of the more common boxes you need to evaluate what the yard wants vs your ability to rebuild the box yourself vs buying one rebuilt. If you ever find a Mk3 Supra Turbo grab that R154 box, if you ever hit the lottery and find a Mk4 Supra Turbo - highly unlikely - its Getrag 6sped is a treasure but you'll be spending a lot of quality time on the mill, measuring and cutting making an adapter plate yourself (the kind of stuff rodders did in the old days...)

    Rearends? A few Ford 8in/9in left, mostly pickup 9in with straight/thick tubes, 8.8 isn't pretty but common as dirt. 4th-gen Camaro 7.5in 10-bolts common. I'm sure there's got to be a couple As running around on Volvo Dana 30s. '86-90 Aerostars had an aluminum-case Dana 30, going to drag one home for possible use in a not-really-HAMBable project (Mk1 Cortina), might be worth checking out for a light car.

    Crown Vic cop-car driveshafts are 54.5in long 3.66in aluminum w/1330 yokes, makes great core to shorten for small/medium car, if you're pulling it make sure the forklift jockeys haven't creased it moving the car around. Explorer shafts a bit shorter w/1310 yokes, works great for Falcon and others similar. Seen some big AL shafts in late GM pickups but never pulled one.

    Many, many brake options. Most front calipers readily rebuilt with $5 kits but rears often much more complex. Hydraboosts ('00ish GM Astro vans easy source, '94-95 Mustangs sideways-mounted) if that's not too non-traditional...

    GM Weatherpack/Metripack electrical connectors and some of the Ford stuff, terminals readily available and easily repinned though a lot of this stuff can be bought quite reasonably from Mouser, Digi-Key, etc. Steering boxes (Delphi 600/670 from Jeep Grand Cherokees, ZF from Cadillac Catera now bolted up to my '64 Galaxie, if you find a Volvo 164 somewhere there's a Ford shoebox owner who'll love you for that box, do your research and keep your eyes open.)

    And the yards are full of Jag XJs if you want suspensions.

    Okay, gotta get some work done now...
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2013
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  28. rfraze
    Joined: May 23, 2012
    Posts: 2,008

    rfraze
    Member

    Not even close! I believe that this site ALSO intends to offer to educate each of us. Can you really read this thread and NOT learn anything?
     
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  29. JEM
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 1,040

    JEM
    Member

    The E4OD is physically huge, much bigger than a C6 or AOD/4R70W or even the GM 4L80E, I trial-fit one under my '64 Galaxie and concluded I'd have to cut half the tunnel out, wasn't willing to do that so it's got a 4R70W.

    Like most automatic transmissions it evolved quite a bit over the years, I think the first year of E4OD/4R100 that was really considered 'good' was '95, and even at that point it was still a work in progress but that was the last year of the 385-series bellhousing cases, not quite sure when they quit making SBF/300-six-pattern cases.
     
  30. tylercrawford
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 726

    tylercrawford
    Member
    from Buford, GA
    1. S.F.C.C.

    Should be either E7s or F1s on there. Any 85 and up 5.0/5.8 is going to have "decent" heads. The only really crappy ones were the 70s smog heads with that giant boss for the air injection garbage in the exhaust port, and even then if you've got a free-weekend, a die grinder and a man-size air compressor . . .

    Forgot about the aerostar. Their driveshafts are incredibly light . . . put one in a ranger and you could actually feel the difference accelerating. I think it was something like 8lbs lighter than the stock steel one.
     
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