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Hot Rods Newbie Front Suspension

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by udnudn, Aug 15, 2017.

  1. udnudn
    Joined: Aug 10, 2017
    Posts: 10

    udnudn

    I just bought a 30 Ford Model A. Very new at hot rods and trying to figure out what I have as a suspension on the front of my car. I have posted pics of what I have. Any help will be greatly appreciated!! IMG_1541.jpg IMG_1542.jpg
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  2. patmanta
    Joined: May 10, 2011
    Posts: 3,874

    patmanta
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Woburn, MA
    1. MASSACHUSETTS HAMB

    4-Bar to a Tube Axle and likely aftermarket Ford style spindles with forged drop arms (from the look of them).

    Steering is probably aftermarket Vega.

    Looks like all catalog stuff.

    Those welds look a little funny in the pictures. Could we get a better look at them? They seem a little smallish to my eye.
     
  3. Looks like a basic Pete & Jakes catalog frontend:
    4-bars with polyurethane bushings, dropped tube axle, Posies transverse leaf spring with polyurethane "buttons", P&J shocks.

    One minor nit-pick: Usually the upper shock brackets are positioned a little farther forward so the upper end of the shock absorber is between them (e.g. the bolt is in double shear). they're in single shear in your car.

    Welcome to the HAMB.
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  4. Good looking car. Welcome to the H.A.M.B.


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     

  5. udnudn
    Joined: Aug 10, 2017
    Posts: 10

    udnudn

    Thanks guys for the help. It does have a Vega steering box that I am replacing because there is a lot of play in what I have plus it is leaking. As far as your other descriptions, I am way new at this so I need to investigate further and try to understand what everything is. Not overly happy with the ride but I believe its the nature of a hot rod and short wheelbase. I have a 9" ford reared with coil overs in the back.

    Thanks for the welcome!!
     
    nomobux, patmanta and chryslerfan55 like this.
  6. You're welcome


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  7. Jalopy Joker
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 31,259

    Jalopy Joker
    Member

    Congrats - steering box may have been a used one. Yep, Hot Rods let you know that you are riding in one. try to find out what the spring rating is on rear coilovers. Since there is very little rear weight do not need heavy spring.as a test, try putting a couple of bags of cement (in plastic bags) in trunk and see if ride is any better


    Sent from my SM-G930V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  8. BLUDICE
    Joined: Jun 23, 2006
    Posts: 1,512

    BLUDICE
    Member

    Add a steering damper if it doesn't already have one.
     
  9. redo32
    Joined: Jul 16, 2008
    Posts: 2,165

    redo32
    Member

    Don't cheap out on the Vega box, there are Chinese copies out there that wear out & leak just like yours. Or look into the rack and pinyon that bolts to the vega mount. Everything else looks good, they put washers on the 4 bar ends, but missed the lower shock mount. Don't worry about the comment on the top shock mount, what you've got is standard street rod practice.
     
    RICH B, Just Gary and X38 like this.
  10. Dreddybear
    Joined: Mar 31, 2007
    Posts: 6,088

    Dreddybear
    Member

    I would also like to add it would bug me to have that much thread showing on my tie rod end. Looking at the one attached to the steering arm on the drag link.

    Welcome and congrats an your new car. :)
     
    Just Gary likes this.
  11. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,624

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    Overall nice street rod. Ditto on Jalopy Joker's advice on rear springs.
    I won't suggest the 'Dead Perch' in lieu of a Panhard, for want of less 'pipework' running behind the axle...but it works, and goes with all the existing '70s hardware.
    DO take a close look (and sound measurement) of the drag link (link between right spindle & steering box)
    When replacing the steering box, find the center of travel. Apply the pitman arm at a 90 degree angle to the drag link, as it centers over the spindle arm tapered hole. (popular error is to position pitman arm straight ahead, then draglink is NON-equidistant to its link...Not 'deadly', but geometrically incorrect)
    Popular consensus is to have steering unbiased to both sides.
    At that final measurement, heed Dreddybear's note: There is a Serious amount of threads showing on the drag link! While measuring, (after centering the pitman arm) consider how many threads are showing at the pitman arm (steering box) end.
    If the distance can be 'split', (even number of threads' distance at both ends) and only say, 5 threads showing, (both ends) it is safe to use. If too short, have another tube cut and threaded for it. D.O.M. tubing ONLY, no welded seam stuff.
    Avoid any Bum Steers...:cool:
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2017
    Just Gary likes this.
  12. I was thinking the same about the 4-bar. Can't be much thread engagement in there. The bottom one has bare thread showing. Someone chasing caster?

    Also, too stiff rear springs have as much to do with pitchy hard ride as the front. Definitely try bags of cement to experiment. It may take several to have an effect if the springs are stiff.
     
    Just Gary likes this.
  13. southcross2631
    Joined: Jan 20, 2013
    Posts: 4,413

    southcross2631
    Member

    I might be a little concerned about the welds on the shock mounts and the 4 bar bracket. Looks like it might be a tad too cold of a weld. Looks like it is stacked up and not penetrated. Might just be the pictures.
     
    pat59 and patmanta like this.
  14. DdoubleD
    Joined: Nov 18, 2009
    Posts: 225

    DdoubleD
    Member
    from Michigan

    I'm dealing with the same issues, cheap steering gear that is. Ididit has one thats good quality, Borgeson?? As far as ride quality, check to make sure you don't have gas charged shocks. It made a big difference when I put oil only shocks on my light weight model A. Good luck.
     
  15. I saw that as well. Root pass might have been done, and someone went over it too cold. If there's been a lot of miles and hours on it, and been no issues, you're likely okay.
    It's always a tough call, when you, yourself, haven't actually welded something, or installed the components.
     
  16. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 2,277

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    Don't give up on the "unhappy ride". I thought the same thing about my Deuce roadster after I built it. On a trip to the Louisville Nats, I had a conversation with the Pro Shock people. Over the winter I sent them both rear shocks and info on my car such as weight and several measurements. Well the spring rate for the coil overs was wrong and both shocks were toast. They supplied new coil overs and I can't begin to tell you how much the ride improved.
     
    udnudn likes this.
  17. Pete and Jake were a couple of guys that built on of the first 4 bar suspensions to be sold through their catalog,you probably have a Superbell tube axle winch was developed by the late Jim Ewing who was goof friends we Pete & Jake and his part were also sold through them.

    They offered a complete Front suspension which looks like what you have.

    What you may not have is a panhard bar that can greatly improve the feeling and steering,the panhard bar prevents bump steer. HRP
     
    Just Gary likes this.
  18. udnudn
    Joined: Aug 10, 2017
    Posts: 10

    udnudn

    Cant seem to find much on pan hard bars. Where they mount. hard to install. any pics>>>>>?
    The Pete and Jake online catalog isn't the easiest to navigate. No prices!
    Thanks.
     
    Just Gary likes this.
  19. Some mount them in front of the axle, some behind. If behind, move the steering through full travel first to make sure there's clearance.[​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    You could call them:rolleyes:
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2017
  20. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 2,277

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    What a Panhard bar or rod basically does is keep the axle from moving sideways causing what is commonly known as "bump steer". Some will attach to the chassis on the drivers side and the "batwing" on the passenger side. The front axle is basically "hung" from the shackles and without one will allow the axle to move around when you hit bumps, potholes etc. For those of us that live near or in NYC, with the roads we have a Panhard bar is a must.
     
    Just Gary likes this.
  21. udnudn
    Joined: Aug 10, 2017
    Posts: 10

    udnudn

    Thanks for all the help guys! It is much appreciated!
     

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