New Water Pump and still no flow and overheating...

Man, I'm at a loss rightnow... We kept overheating so I replaced the thermostat first of course. (a couple actually) Then, I took it out all together and it looked like I wasn't getting any flow when I removed the cap. So, I went ahead and ordered a new water pump. What should have been a simple swap took two days do to not having all the parts etc but none the less, as soon as I got them I installed it easy enough but still no flow... and by the time I got to mom n dad's (not far away) I was already overheating. What gives??
Any help and I'm all ears... I'm stuck. Oh and I flushed the radiator and it is free flowing.
thanks,
Larry/Lauren

 

Sometimes you will get a hose collapse in and stop flo. the inside of the hose is bad
A good test is to take the top hose off use the garden hose to keep the radiator full. Wait for the thermostat to open. When open it should flow well and hot.

 

Is the water pump correct? or is it turning reverse...

Is the bottom radiator hose getting sucked shut?? (collapsing) There should be a spring in the bottom hose...

You didnt say what engine, sometimes a 1/8 hole drilled in the thermostat plate, helps it purge any air...

Did you try a garden hose in the radiator, while the top hose is disconnected & off to the side to double check the flow???

Just throwing out some things...

 

Did you remember to put the belt back on?

 

hoses don't seem to be collapsed...
hmm... I'm not sure how the pump could go backwards if it could be installed only one direction... (bolt patterns)
no thermostat right now and still no flow...
and yes, I remembered to put the belt back on Goos-em LOL

thnx for the responses... still no luck with all those avenues covered.

 

Its not putting it on backwards. Some pumps have reverse rotation. Not knowing what you have for and engine. I can really coment on that. The only thing you have left in the mix is the radiator. Got to be plugged somewhere.

 

Flow?


Leave the cap off.


Start it cold, then as it is sitting there warming up with no t-stat, keep feeling the upper hose/and finger in the neck to feel the water temp, and then, all over the face of the radiator core.

The upper hose should get warm first, before the lower, and there should be somewhat even heat on the core. Maybe a bit less in the circular shape center where the fan is drawing.


Thermostat: Drill a tiny bleed hole in it to help let the air pocket go away. All T-stats should have a bleed hole IMO

 

235 I6...
no thermostat right now... no flow with and without it...
radiator is not plugged... it has free flow... teseted several times...
I tried starting it cold with no cap and all it does is get hotter and hotter...
thnx guys...

 

Have you had head off? maybe head gasket on upside down blocking ports? blocked exhaust? collapsed exhaust pipe..was it a used water pump, bad fins? just helpin' ya guess. water pump off a marine engine? swap meet part?


any oil in water? water out tailpipe? timing? has it ALWAYS overheated, or when did it start,? still guessing, love ta know what ya find. hit me at hufr@msn. when ya solve it, please..?

take off a heater hose and turn on heat, see what happens?

 

never had the head off... good exhaust flow (straight pipes at the moment) and the water pump came from O'reilly's... I thought of maybe a bad water pump but the old one did the same exact thing as this new one... it seems to be working as far as I could tell, as far as fins and rotations...
thnx for all the brainstorming.

 

Do that again, but feel where I said. Is the rad hose getting warm? Is the radiator face getting warm?

My point is, that maybe it is circulating, but perhaps a bad headgasket is causing it to overheat. You need to feel what is getting heat/and what is staying cool, during warm up.

 

i bought a nomad cheap because it was overheating badly &the owner gave up

checked rad by checking flow with hose was ok but rad tubes where coated
inside so that water was free to flow thru but the water was not transmiting any of the heat from the water to the passing air..

need to have it rodded out>done rite this envolves removing the tanks&rodding out all the tubes....just get a new rad if you can not find a REAL rad shop

 

Oh ok, gotcha, yeah... with the cap off and thermo out... the top hose gets hot pretty quick and the radiator just consistently get's hot... it seems it is getting hotter from the top more but it is pretty evenly from how it feels. Seems the radiator is getting hotter quicker than the motor is. Place my hands on the head easier but the radiator heats up quick.
I have heard some people say in other posts that it may be a timing issue but... I'll stop myself now because it should still have good flow... My brain is fried trying to solve this.

 

Run the garden hose thru the block. Check that for flow or blockage.

 

gasserjohn... if it is flowing straight through the radiator while putting the hose from the top should this be an issue?

 

Check for combustion gases leaking into the cooling system,with a "Block Check" kit some parts houses have these for loan. Chevy 216-235s were known for cracking heads.

 

31 Vicki... hose from the top above pump? and see if it pours out freely? If not then the block is clogged right? If so, any insite on how I could unclogg the block? thnx

 

new intake? buddy of mine just when through this with a new 350 crate motor exactly same story, found the new edelbrock intake had casting flashings in the water jackets that had not been cleaned up at the factory, blocking water flow, cleaned them up fixed problem.

 

Back up a second.

When did this start happening and what, if anything, did you do to the car just before it started overheating?

 

yblock... I'm kind of a beginner and maybe my brain is on overload right now but intake? I'm confused... air intake? and how would this affect water flow?I have an old 235 with the single barrel and a little air cleaner... nothing fancy or new.
thnx... I'm just confused on this.

 

take off heater hose with rad cap off use a rag and air, blow thru the heater hose watch system, see if water blows out top of radiator

WE NEED TO KNOW WHEN IT FIRST STARTED, ANSWER NOW,,

 

TagMan... changed the motor from 216 to 235... the old motor overheated everynow and then and after a while not so much... the "new" motor overheated at first & then it stopped overheating for a while... now it has been overheating consistently for a pretty long time. Any thoughts?
thnx

 

First define'overheating' it will push out the overflow (with a good cap) if it is overheating. A high reading gauge ? you can't lay your hand on a radiator top even if you used a 180 deg. thermostat.

 

Hmmm.. On to the first question No flow? Put water in it. leave a tad low so you can look in the radiator cap hole and see the water.

It the old days, with the cap off we spit in the hole to see if it did in fact move. That will tell you if there is water flowing... Without a stat, then it should flow right away.

As far as over heating rapidly, after you started the car, have you placed a sheet of paper over the front of the radiator? That will tell you if the air is being pulled into the front of the radiator as it should.

You wouldn't be the first kid on the block to ever put things back together only to find out you put the fan on backwards.

As far as over heating, like TagMan said, what was going on before you started fixing what wasn't broke?

HellRaiser

 

I'm thinking it must be some kind of block in the motor since it seems to flow free from the radiator and it's a new pump with no thermostat... anybody have this happen before and if so, any thoughts on how to "blow it out"? I'm gonna try like someone above said to see if I'm getting a clof in the motor...
Man, I need a beer bad... but I know as soon as I take a sip I'm gonna walk away from this car for the day LOL

 

reread my post?

the tubes maybe open to flow but the inside of the tubes are coated with stuff that does not allow the water to transfer the heat from the water to the air passing thru the rad fins/tubes....find a REAL radiator shop to look at complete car....that is their business..........

 

Rookie1... over heatin as in steaming and whining... not just a little overspill... so hot it is evaprating the water all gone.
HellRaiser... I have an electric fan that turns on with ignition and I've checked the direction (but I wouldnt be surprised to hear it were backwards LOL)... water level is a couple inches low so I can see it but there is no floweven without the thermostat... and as I responded earlier to TagMan it seems to have started overheating but then stopped for a few days then started again... now it consistently overheats.
thnx guys...

 

GasserJohn... gotcha, I see what you mean now... next step is to bring it in to a shop when I get the cash. Just trying to take all avenues of approach I can myself... if all else fails I will just have to take it in... I just hate admitting defeat and letting someone else work on her... but sometimes you got to do what yougot to do. LOL

 

How old is your "new" engine?.

Pull a freeze plug and your water pump. Use a hose to flush out the crap in your block.

I did that in my old 56 and got all kinds of flaky rust crap (not just rusty water) out of the freeze plug hole.

 

over the years lots of freeze replaced just knocking old ones into the block!!!