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New to forum, need help on '62 292

Discussion in 'New to the H.A.M.B.? Introduce yourself here!' started by A Seabee, May 9, 2017.

  1. A Seabee
    Joined: May 9, 2017
    Posts: 24

    A Seabee

    Hi all,

    I bought a 1962 f100 Unibody about 8 months ago, and have been working on it off and on since. It sat in a field for 13 years, and was (is) pretty crusty. I was able to make it run on about 5 cylinders the day I brought it home. the 292 in it has a cast iron 4 bbl intake, Carter afb, and headers. I replaced the fuel pump, plugs, oil and filter, got the carb rebuilt by a professional carb shop, replaced the cap, rotor, wires, condenser, points, coil, fuel tank, fuel cap (vented). I checked the compression and had 2 cylinders (3 & 8) with zero pressure. I squirted oil in the cylinder and compression did not change I adjusted the valves 3 times, checked the compression and (after the valve adjustments) have 120-125 cylinder pressure in all cylinders. I replaced the Carter with a brand new Holley 600 cfm. I found 2 wires in the firewall through connector that had corroded away. I cut them at the plug and jumpered around with wire and butt connectors. I replaced the battery cables. with all this I managed to get it running pretty well. starts right up, good oil pressure, runs at about 170-180 F. on factory gauge. Adjusted the timing, and tried to check for timing chain slop while adjusting the valves. The truck runs and drives now. Each time I work on it it seems to run better and better. The problem is, it still stalls after driving a few miles. At first, when I had the corroded wires, it would buck, cough, and may or may not start back up. I towed it home at least 3 times, and at least 3 other times just coasted into my driveway with a dead engine. Now, it starts and idles pretty smooth, and when it dies, it stalls when I depress the clutch to shift, or stop. It doesn't do it right away. Last night, it ran like a top for about 5 miles, but then stalled. I was still rolling and popped the clutch and it started and ran fine again. It stalled again on the same road, I pulled over, cranked it and it started right up. Any thoughts???

    As it sat in the field. a previous owner put 3/4 ton rear axle and front hubs on it. Brakes were shot, I did hoses, wheel cylinders, and master cylinder.
    And,[​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2017
  2. Hudson31
    Joined: Feb 22, 2013
    Posts: 28

    Hudson31
    Member

    Did you clean the fuel tank and lines? My Hudson ran like that when I first got it back on the road, problem was gone after I cleaned up the fuel system.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  3. A Seabee
    Joined: May 9, 2017
    Posts: 24

    A Seabee

    re
    Replaced the tank with a new one. the only part of the fuel system I didn't replace was a section of steel line between the tank and the fuel pump. I figured it was clear because the glass inline filter doesn't have a speck of dirt in it. the fuel is so clean it's hard to tell if it's even there, but it is
     
  4. A Seabee
    Joined: May 9, 2017
    Posts: 24

    A Seabee

    drove it again today...when I nail the throttle, it starts to act up. before the drive I checked the timing, let it idle for 30 minutes. checked manifold vacuum, 21 inches at idle. condensation out the tailpipes. some weird popping out the exhaust. comes and goes. otherwise smooth and revs nice. drove a couple miles, then decided to romp on it a bit. not smooth, some bucking and cutting out. stalled at a stop sign, restarted drove home, 'bout a half mile. ran shitty. get home, stalls. restart it. idles, a little shaky, then smooths out and sounds/revs fine again.
    someone on another forum was adamant about the condenser, and how most of them are bad out of the box. replaced the one that came in the truck with one from NAPA, then put the "old one" back in. the old one looked like new...
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2017
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