New Project - Grandpa's 1962 Dodge Dart 330 Wagon

Changed out the obsolete in-line tranny filter today. Used a WIX 58964 with internal donut magnet - worked out real well. Noticed Grandpa had soldered the filter - wondered if that did anything to the filter paper inside. Cut it open to see between that and being over 2 decades on the car..... Paper media still looked intact - the design even has a bypass valve.

 

I had a 2 dr post this color. Had it stored at my dads and he sold it to the scrappers along with all his stuff. He was "losing it" so I had to grin and bear is
it.

 

Rear springs and U-bolts arrived today from Detroit Eaton Springs. Ordered the week before Thanksgiving, pretty fast for something they couldn't just pull off the shelf. Made in America!

 

The old torsion bar suspended Chrysler products can really handle if set up right. For an object lesson look up "The Green Brick" a 1968 Valiant 2 door sedan that finished in the money in the 1 Lap of America, competing against AMG Mercedes, Porsche, Corvette etc.
The Green Brick was set up by Chrysler expert Rick Ehrenburg and his rocket scientist side kick.

Nearly everything in the suspension and braking system was stock Chrysler made parts, or stock replacement parts from the local dealer. He did take the liberty of using select parts off other models but it was pretty much all Chrysler.

 

Following Rick's article on suspension - setting it up one step above "Granny"...

http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/front-end-alignment.html


Started pre-assembly of front end parts. Figure what I can do in advance is good - all new to me - learning as I go. Pressed the Moog offset bushings into the front of the new upper A-arms to allow more caster.

Surprisingly my 4" vise opened up the needed 8" plus to press together the lca bushings and pivot shaft.

 

Driver's side spring installed this evening - a bit of a battle to get the old rear shackle out and new shackle in - with the wagon side gas tank in the way. Plus half inch thick undercoating reducing clearance. Dodge really poured on the undercoating back then!

Old U-bolts were extra long - cut them off flush with the nuts - made for easier unbolting. Tightened down new U-bolts to what felt good, went in and looked up the torque spec - 50 ft lbs. Went back and tightened them quite a bit more before the torque wrench clicked. Glad I checked - will re-torque when on the ground and again after driven some miles.

 

Finished up putting on the new rear springs on the wagon last night - rides a bit more compliant - and sits over an inch higher. So the old springs were tired for sure. Was a bit concerned the ride would be too high and too stiff, but this is perfect. The wagon springs are rated at 880lbs each!

Great source if you will be looking for a leaf springs……. American made quality, yet priced very reasonable. This company is very knowledgeable and good to work with. One of only two sources I could find, that even listed the correct springs for my wagon. They also carry complete front end kits and parts.

Quote from another Mopar owner:

http://www.springsnthings.com/leaf-spring.htm

Happy Holidays!

 

No longer a Mopar torsion suspension virgin. Have the new front suspension parts all in. Bit of a chore with the learning curve, but did figure out no torsion bar removal tool is needed when removing lower control arms too.

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Remove A-arm bumper (Before raising car).
Raise car / Remove wheels.
Release torsion bar tension by removing adjustment bolts.
Remove torsion bar rear clip and clean out grease from rear socket.
Remove front strut rod nut. Then remove strut rod rear nut.
Remove lower ball joint nut, and tie-rod nut and break them both free with pickle fork.
Remove LCA pivot shaft nut.

No torsion bar removal tool needed when removing the LCA and torsion bar together as follows:
Tap pivot shaft back and pry LCA out of K-member, driving torsion bar out of rear socket.
Knock lower control arm free from torsion bar with large rubber mallet.

Rebuild A-arm before or after LCA, if you wish to leave brakes connected.
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Have a ball and trunion conversion drive shaft coming, so leaving it on jack stands for now. Then will set it down, torque strut rod bushings to spec...... Set the torsion bars for a little rake, then off to the alignment shop.....

 

Coming along good.

 

Alignment shop could not get her to come in - prime suspect is cheap repro upper A-arms. Going to rebuild the originals and try again. Does drive OK, but caster is way positive. Adjustable strut rods would help. Asked them to look for something loose because still had a suspension rattle. Turns out the disc brake caliper bracket grade 5 bolts had come loose, one missing! No lock washers, so got all new grade 8 bolts, washers and lock washers. No more rattle.

Ball and trunion conversion driveshaft came - all installed - works very nice and top quality - good people to order it from:

http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/Left-Column/Antique-Classics.html

 

Rebuilt the original A-arms - glad I did even if they were not the alignment culprit. Upper ball joints loose and barely threaded into them when tight. Back to the alignment shop when the weather permits. Also changed out the bullet shaped strut rod bushings for MOOG K7039 donut shaped, much better design.

Found some old family pics with the Dart in the background circa 1990.

 

My wagon suffered a mishap during the test drive - after the front end alignment - at the hands of the alignment shop.

Anyone have a line on a solid R/F fender? I imagine 2dr or 4dr sedan would be the same.

Eyebrow above the headlight, and the headlight bezel are toast.

Pretty stuffed around the headlight, so not sure I want it straightened.

Heck of a way to get the alignment and bumper redone on the shop’s insurance....

I hear the Honda car it tangled with did not fare well......

 

http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/4292754080.html

 

All fixed from her collision at the hands of the front end alignment shop.........

Deedee is one fine looking girl...........

 

What a cool car.

 

I second that. One of the Exners group finest.

 

Latest upgrade - cut and welded a driver's side exhaust manifold opposite to fit the passenger side.

Passenger side before was center dump with a heat-riser.

Less restriction now.
Better clearance away from steering gear.
Clear access to oil filter - before it had to go out from above.
Cleaner look.