The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by chiro, Jun 8, 2016.
Fake patina is like putting a potato in your Speedo.
Asking for help on the internet as to what style your car should be ... priceless
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I don't understand people wanting shitty worn out looking paint. I was under the impression that hot rodding was about making cars better, not making them shittier... for crying out loud make a nice car out of it
I understand that if a guy wants it to look like he didn't want to paint just one part, and have it look like it was the same as the others. That makes sense to me. All other I don't get.
But if it was mine, and I AM gonna do this to my own build; tractor paint, or industrial enamel.
1. You do the body work to an DIY standard look fair but not fantastic, and don't gap the doors and other fancy stuff.
2. Paint it with shop primer, brush it on heavy. Maybe two coats just to give it enough. When dry, Run over with 120-150.
3. Brush on the first layer of paint on, go thick for smoothness. When dry, Run over its 150 on a sander.
4. Spray down a coat and make sure that it sticks nice and even. When dry run over with 200-250 on a sander.
5. Spray a coat of paint with 10-15% clearcoat in the paint.
If to you wants a better finish add a point 4.5 point and run it over with 250-300
And the you have a paint job that looks
like a 10-15 year old factory paintjob on a well kept car, for the era perfect look.
Run it, and enjoy it, like it it was the early fifties.
But please don't beat on it and scratch it on purpose, that is just not era perfect. Sand appreciate (door edges, trunk edges etc) for a car that has survived a World War, Three other wars, the Berlin Wall, the War on Drugs and a Police-action in the east (to some a war).
Treat it with love and respect,
and drive it hard!
Life is good!
I once saw a Hot Rod magazine cover car at Donut Derelicts. It was a 36 Ford coupe, fiberglass, with patina paint, even down them drilling little holes and filing them out to look like metal worms. It actually was hard to tell unless you were about a foot from it.
Read the very 1st OP. He doesn't like or want a fake paint job like most of you are accusing him of. He just really likes how old cars look. He's not talking about fake rust or fake bullet holes or fake worn out lettering, he just doesn't want a super shiny, slick, obsessive compulsive, sand until you bleed out from blisters, boring, seen it a million times at car shows with old guy in a lawn chair, paint looks perfect-so what, first rock off a dump truck in front of you will have you blubbering like a baby, ubiquitous, Beach Boys playin', ZZ Boyd paint job. He really just wants to use the equivalent of lacquer they used 75 years ago, the way a car looked when they needed wax and the surface had a cool "not perfectness" to it. He likes real old cars.
Just because most of the 30's Coupes here were built in the last twenty years and are NOT original hotrods from the 40's or 50's I wouldn't call you guys "posers". Even the glass ones. Sheesh.
I think I've said it before but I only know of two "people" that can accomplish this the right way......Mother Nature and Father Time
Volvobrynk, the tractor enamel in US takes a long time to dry and doesn't sand well at all, not sure what paint you get in Denmark. Just see how long they take to cure and how well they sand out.
If you try this with rustoleum it will be months to dry well enough to sand without balling up.
I use this a lot. It got some nice colors, easy to handle and makes me look like I'm a good painter.
4 hour/20*C repaintable, but I give it over Night.
I can help with the shipping, if this has some appeal.
You could go with a medium oil enamel, fast reducer and lay on 5 good coats, you will start to create a wrinkle finish this will almost replicate crows foot that lacquer does after many many years. I could build one very translucent, you could sand down to metal in certain areas before you paint and let rust form. It would take some time, but get some junk fenders at any body shop and practice.
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I'm there too. If you're fortunate enough to get a clean original that's one thing. There is a vibe that defies words when you see it. To start from scratch and make it look like that? I guess that's another product of the instant gratification school. Don't look for one, make it...?
I'm interested in techniques here. Mainly for blending in existing older paint jobs that may have a fender or door rusted out.
Example, I'm looking at a late 50's chevy truck, very cool old orange paint with a cream panel job, the fender and door bottoms have some rust. I like the truck because of the old orange paint, if I buy it, I'd try to rust repair the fenders and doors and blend the orange back in to save the panel paint. Some weathering and chipping would be required to pull this off even if I can get a decent paint match.
The truck is old and used and that's the appeal to me, if I had to straighten that truck for a fresh paint job, I'd pass, it just needs too much to get it straight.
Just take out the motor and seats and park it in a lake for 20 or 30 years. That should do it.
Finally, somebody understood what I was trying to say for crying out loud! Thanks everybody for all the "help". Sheesh, indeed.
Chiro, I can't find the thread. There was a recent post of with, I think a 1940 ford, that had been painted hot rod black, single stage with flattener. They buffed the paint out and it was shiny.
If you shot a dark brown primer, single stage black with SEM flattener, then lightly buffed the car I think you'd get the look you're after. Beyond that study old original paint cars and sand thru the color coat in strategic places, do some donuts in gravel, chain scrape areas like running boards etc will further weather the paint.
Maybe some of the experiences laquer painters can give some ideas on shooting it, gotta be a way to reduce it and get some checking, cracking in the paint.
Hope that helps, I still like shiny if you go thru the work of a full repaint.
Just because most of the 30's Coupes here were built in the last twenty years and are NOT original hotrods from the 40's or 50's I wouldn't call you guys "posers". Even the glass ones. Sheesh.[/QUOTE]
nicest thing you can say about glass cars is to call them replicas
The trick to making fake patina is to jump off a cliff and plummet to your demise...
I know what you mean, just bustin your balls. Just shoot straight lacquer and leave it. It will take care of itself.
Yup. I remember that post/thread but don't remember who posted it. It might be in my watched threads though. I remember the poster saying it was his dads car and dad didn't like the flat black hot rod black look so he took a buffing wheel to the car with a vengeance and it came out looking like old paint. I'm going to test paint some fenders I have. One is going to get the treatment just described. The other is going to be shot in plain lacquer. I will see how it goes.
The whole reason I even posted this thread was because the type of paint I'm looking for fits the character of the build and the look I'm going for. The car is truly period correct. All a bunch of old, crusty parts that have been gleaned from swap meets and salvage yards over the last 6 years and lovingly and painstakingly restored to proper functionality. The only thing newer than 1950 in the car are the first gen. Mustang buckets (swap meet score) and only because the patina and original color of the upholstery is just too freaking cool looking (Hey...they're FORD aren't they?). The build is meant to look like a young kid did it in the early '50's. I'm pretty sure that young kids in the '50's didn't have high dollar paint jobs back then so I may just brush it and sand the hell out of it or shoot it in my driveway.
the thread you fellers are talkin about was Chris' 1946 ford
Base coat, clear coat is something that wasn't even dreamed of in the late 40's/early 50's. Just use some inexpensive paint, and spray it in your driveway. It will look great.....at least it will look more like an old hot rod than the over the top, base coat, clear coat, rods that are the norm today. Poorly done fake patina, and over the top base coat, clear coat paint jobs, are at opposite ends of the spectrum, and in my opinion ruin the looks of many otherwise nice hot rods. Aim for a paint job in between those extremes.
I saw a guy paint a 46 Ford hot rod flatz saten black , then buff it....THAT looked like 40 year old lacquer
YEP ^^^^ That's exactly what I was referring too
@S.F. I was not aware that you could do that with Hot Rod Flatz thanks for the info. There is just nothing like old but solid paint that catches the eye is there.
As for patina paint this commercial says it all. Can't link the vid but it is priceless. Warning this is a commercial spot, I have no interest in the company being touted.
Anyway look at your own risk and laugh if you want.
Either it's real, or it's not... doesn't matter how well or how poorly it's done, it is what it is. A crappy paint job looks crappy. A nice paint job looks nice. Real "patina" is real, fake "patina" is fake... To me, few things look worse than a poorly executed anything and a car that's purposely made to look bad is a damn shame. So when the lemmings get in line to be different like everybody else, it's an embarrassment! The cars that sat out in a field or what ever have a certain "been there, survived that" look that is very appealing to some. Others can't hardly look at it. Don't worry about what I (or anyone else) think or say. Do what YOU want, just please, show some class and don't make it look stupid...
I assure you, it will not look stupid. I have too much time and effort into it to make it look stupid. I just want it to look old. No fake "patina" I just want it to look like old paint if I can. I also don't want it to look so nice that I'm going to shit a brick every time one of my fenderless front tires throws a stone at the cowl.
Beaner knows. He nailed it in his post above. There is just nothing like the way old, solid paint catches the eye. That wonderful old glow. I'm going to try a couple things in my "spare" time and see what happens
I hesitate to suggest this but, if you are using tractor or industrial enamel, you can use a roller! (No kidding). I saw an article in a Landrover (OT) magazine about repainting with enamel. They used a variety of rollers and the final result was better than I would have expected. This goes against all I know about bodywork (I am not a professional bodyman - I have successfully sprayed 5 cars and 3 motorcycles over the years) but what it gives you is a finish halfway between high end sprayed finish and looking like it was applied with a toilet brush. It does still require a degree of skill though!
Good point, and you are very right to point it out.
The reason I use brush in my example is because I can hit low spots again and again. But I see no reason that it can't
work. We have a long time family friend that did it on a Fiat 127 in the early eighties. But only on paint, not primer.
And it turned out good.
Will you please post more photos of this car and its paint? Thank you!
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