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new guy from georgia

Discussion in 'New to the H.A.M.B.? Introduce yourself here!' started by beck83, Oct 30, 2009.

  1. beck83
    Joined: Oct 30, 2009
    Posts: 10

    beck83
    Member

    hey everyone my name is Casey and reside in Valdosta Georgia. I recently inherited a 1950 fleetline deluxe. have viewed site a few time and found it helpful. thought i would join. unfortunately i know nothing about cars except how to drive them. any ideas on where to start and how to get it done would be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. The good thing is that your '50 Fleetline is about the simplest car in the world to learn on. We all started out not knowing much, and this is a good place to learn. Welcome from Rockmart! Henrietta the '38 Ford pickup and Ozelle the '55 Ford send friendly horn honks to your '50 Fleetline.

    Is your '50 Fleetline running and driveable? If not, focus on getting it up and running before you think about changing anything. Get yourself a shop manual '49-'54 Chevys are pretty much the same mechanically, so a shop manual for any of those years will get you started. Or you can find the old Motors manuals that cover all makes from the late '40s/'early '50s pretty easily. If the car has been sitting a while or if the rubber stuff is old, go through the brakes, replace wheel cylinders and hoses and rebuild the master cylinder. Replace the tires along with all belts and hoses. Do a tuneup on it--points, plugs, condensor. Check the electrical system for any frayed wiring that could short out, and make sure it's charging as it should. Check the front end for worn king pins, bushings, tie rod ends, and idler arm. Holler at us for help on any specific issues you need help with. You're used to driving modern vehicles with power disc brakes, rack and pinion steering, and a much lower center of gravity, so once you get it running and driveable, find yourself a big empty parking lot and get used to the way this beast handles and stops. A '50 Chevy, even one in showroom condition with no worn parts and everything adjusted to factory specs, handles and stops very differently from what you're used to driving--especially if it has bias ply rather than radial tires. Oh yes, even if this car is in mint condition and needs nothing, put seat belts in it!
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2009
  3. beck83
    Joined: Oct 30, 2009
    Posts: 10

    beck83
    Member

    thanks for all of the info. it does not run. it was put in a barn for about 20 years. the tires aired up and are still holding strong. it is still all original, but the straight 6 is locked up and i also tried to spin the flywheel. no luck. the wiring looks ok, but i have intentions on re wiring the whole car. thanks again for your help.
     
  4. 440shawn
    Joined: Sep 25, 2009
    Posts: 1,716

    440shawn
    Member

    Welcome from Illinois
     

  5. TAYLOR
    Joined: Jan 21, 2007
    Posts: 591

    TAYLOR
    Member
    from DALLAS,GA.

    Welcome from Dallas, Ga.
     
  6. slick39
    Joined: Jan 20, 2008
    Posts: 695

    slick39
    Member
    from dallas ,ga

    welcome also from Dallas ga i have a 51 chevy hard top
     
  7. chopnchaneled
    Joined: Oct 21, 2004
    Posts: 1,428

    chopnchaneled
    Member
    from Buford Ga.

    Welcome from Buford
     
  8. Do a search here on "stuck engine" and you will find several threads on how to free a stuck engine, as it can often be done without tearing it down. And, even if those tires look OK and hold air, replace them before you actually start driving it on the road. They are probably dry rotted, and they will have developed flat spots from the car sitting so long. Unless you're restoring it as a bone-stock show car, put radial tires on it. It will handle a lot better with radials. Wish I didn't live so far away. It'd be fun to spend a Saturday playing with it, see if we could free up that engine. Go ahead and get yourself a quart of automatic transmission fluid or Marvel Mystery Oil and a pump-type oil can. Take out the spark plugs and shoot a few squirts into each cylinder, wait a day or two, and see if it will turn over with ATF or MMO in the cylinders and the plugs out. If it's been in the dry with the hood closed and air cleaner on the carb, it may not be too badly stuck and may break loose without too much trouble.
     
  9. beck83
    Joined: Oct 30, 2009
    Posts: 10

    beck83
    Member

    thats what i tried, pouring some mmo in it. let it set for about a week with a towel over it so the moisture would stay out better. and then i tried transmission fluid. even took a wooden block and tapped it with a hammer to see if they would budge just a little. i have the engine tore down to the pistons. they look in good condition to me. it has a slotted end at the front of the engine for a pry bar to sit in. i stuck a large screw driver in it and a cheater bar and pried and bent both the bar and the screw driver.
     
  10. blockhead
    Joined: Oct 31, 2009
    Posts: 19

    blockhead
    Member
    from Pooler, GA

    Welcome from Savannah!
     
  11. lostforawhile
    Joined: Mar 23, 2008
    Posts: 4,160

    lostforawhile
    Member

    Welcome from Moultrie closest member to you. when you get ready to wire let me know i'll drive up and give you a hand. :)
     
  12. beck83
    Joined: Oct 30, 2009
    Posts: 10

    beck83
    Member

    thanks for the help. i plan on going to the big swap meet on the 20th. hoping to find one there. if i cant find one there, what kind would you recommend? i was also hoping to take two other cars that a friend just gave me. an 81 malibu and a 79 thunderbird. but i was too late to get a spot
     
  13. Sounds like you're doing the right things to free the engine. Just a thought--don't mean to sound like a smart aleck or anything, everyone of us here has an embarrassing story to tell on ourselves about overlooking something obvious--is the transmission in neutral? Try having someone hold the clutch in while you try to turn the engine and see if that makes any difference. The other question that comes to mind is: Was it running when parked? Was it driven under its own power to the spot it was sitting when you got it? Or was it pushed or towed there after something broke?
     
  14. Smokin' Joe
    Joined: Jul 4, 2006
    Posts: 1,001

    Smokin' Joe
    Member Emeritus

    COOL! Another newb from Georgia. Welcome aboard!
     
  15. beck83
    Joined: Oct 30, 2009
    Posts: 10

    beck83
    Member

    i do believe it is in neutral. we pulled it up hill with a four wheeler in order to get it under my car port. it has a three speed on the column. not real sure the shift pattern but it wouldnt move until we found nuetral. i have it jacked up on some jack stands. hoping to get some good pictures today and post them. and i do believe it was running when my grandpa parked it...but that was 20 years ago. he had it in a barn. we aired up the tires and pulled it out and pulled it up on a trailer and pulled it 900 plus miles home. and then parked it where it sits now.
     
  16. Shift pattern is the same for any 3 on the tree. Reverse is toward the driver and up, low is toward the driver and down, second is away from the driver and up, high is away from the driver and down. Neutral is in the middle. Keep the MMO or ATF in the cylinders and try the breaker bar every day. If it only moves a couple of degrees, that's progress, if it moves just a little, it'll probably move a little more tomorrow. Also try turning it backwards, won't hurt anything. You may still have to rebuild the engine, but it will be easier to take it apart if your can get it turning freely. You can also try towing it slowly with a chain, get it moving, drop it in gear, and let out the clutch. Good idea to do it on dirt or gravel, that way if it stays locked up, you'll just slide the rear wheels.
     
  17. Smokin' Joe
    Joined: Jul 4, 2006
    Posts: 1,001

    Smokin' Joe
    Member Emeritus

    Any luck getting it un-stuck yet?
     
  18. PegLegStrick
    Joined: Aug 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,883

    PegLegStrick
    Member

    Welcome from South Georgia!
     
  19. 54killnweeds
    Joined: Nov 9, 2009
    Posts: 12

    54killnweeds
    Member

    welcome from s.c and good luck with your build
     
  20. harleyddad
    Joined: Mar 30, 2007
    Posts: 52

    harleyddad
    Member

    Welcome from Fitzgerald, sounds like my 49 Ford, it's up and running now and will probably make the trip to Moultrie for the Swap Meet, Good luck freeing up that engine
     
  21. spicalan
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 106

    spicalan
    Member
    from Georgia

    welcome from canton
     
  22. beck83
    Joined: Oct 30, 2009
    Posts: 10

    beck83
    Member

    No luck on the motor yet. In the mean time I am updating the rear end to a 74 camaro 10 bolt. Along with some new leaf springs shocks and mounts. Trying to find the best deal on disc brake conversion kit.
     
  23. PegLegStrick
    Joined: Aug 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,883

    PegLegStrick
    Member

    Hope to see you all at the Swap Meet, Heck I aint but about 15 minutes away from it!
     
  24. kustomriv
    Joined: Oct 31, 2003
    Posts: 323

    kustomriv
    Member

    welcome from savannah

    Tim
     
  25. coupeman36
    Joined: Oct 18, 2005
    Posts: 220

    coupeman36
    Member

    welcome beck83, I am also from Valdosta! moved here about a year and a half ago. I own the black '36 coupe around town, I drive it almost everyday. I used to belong to Inliners International I might could help you get that '50 goin. pm me sometime.
     
  26. 343w
    Joined: Dec 15, 2008
    Posts: 1,486

    343w
    Member

    Welcome Beck form a Bama Hamber, looks like the guys have come to your aid in a hurry, that's what the Hamb is all about! I'll be at the swap meet this next weekend as well! Hope to see all you wrencheads!
     
  27. stretch 1320
    Joined: Oct 1, 2006
    Posts: 1,861

    stretch 1320
    Member

    Welcome from Lithia Springs!
     

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