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Technical Needing help with a steel 32 roadster

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jasper234, Oct 28, 2018.

  1. Jasper234
    Joined: Oct 11, 2011
    Posts: 54

    Jasper234
    Member

    Hi. I’m in fairly desperate need of help. Having bought a steel 32 body and an aftermarket frame, I’ve had to disassemble the body to remove numerous areas that aren’t right/safe. I now have a pile of old to work and a growing pile of brookville sheet metal.

    My problem is figuring out how some of the panels fit ‘properly’ given that many of them were butchered somewhat by the previous. I also can’t afford to keep buying more and more panels. I’m in the uk and shipping and taxes are biting hard....

    Can anyone out there help with clear pictures of build threads or similar that show area of the car I’m struggling with??

    As a starter, I need:

    - details/photos of how the cowl side panel fitted to the A pillar/door post. Mine has the rear edge of the cowl panel ground off almost to the outer fav of the panel. Pictures I can find suggest it should somehow wrap around the post so the hinge passes though both??

    - I have a new set of brookville rails bought cheaply new old stock. In the rocker area are two moulding lines. I presume the door post mentioned above pushes up to one, and the rear quarter to the other so that the rocker sits between both? Any pictures of a traditional Hotrod in that area would be great. Also, can anyone show me how the rear of the quarter panel fixes to the subrail? I see pictures of a simple 90 degree tab fixed to the subrail? Is that it?

    One last and optimistic plea:

    I need a driver’s side firewall foot for a left hand drive car, and maybe given the state of them a pair of cowl sides. Happy for aftermarket, but would need someone willing to ship to the UK.

    Thanks in advance for any help anyone can offer. Afraid these cars are hard to find over here and currently feelings. Little like I’m underwater!!

    Jasper234


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  2. I do not have any photos of roadster body parts, but I am sure that someone here can help you out. Your post hit pretty early in the morning so this should get it back to the top.
     
  3. Jasper234
    Joined: Oct 11, 2011
    Posts: 54

    Jasper234
    Member

    Thank you very much. All help gratefully received!


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  4. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 28,545

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You might want to post some high quality photos of what you are fighting with so that some of the 32 guys can post matching photos of how it should look or be done. Seeing what you are up against helps folks be able to tell you how to correct it.
     

  5. cartoon14
    Joined: Jan 21, 2013
    Posts: 46

    cartoon14
    Member

    Need pics of the sections you’re concerned with, have done a few duces and a bunch of A’s may have some pics that’ll help.


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  6. Jasper234
    Joined: Oct 11, 2011
    Posts: 54

    Jasper234
    Member

    Here goes....

    The A post/door pillar was basically pie cut box and layers of 12 gauge mild steel made into pillar. I’ve bought new brookville ones. I need to understand how these fit to the subrail and to the end of the dash/cowl. You can see that I’ve dollied the rear edge of the cowl side to give me some material to remake whatever I need and weld to it. Previously, it was folded around another piece of steel that was up inside the cowl panel:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


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  7. Jasper234
    Joined: Oct 11, 2011
    Posts: 54

    Jasper234
    Member

    The B post to the rear of the door is also pie cut box with pieces welded to it and filler added, so I’ve bought new brookville B posts and brackets for the bottom. I’d be really grateful for some pictures that should how and where this attached to the subrail at the bottom and also just some nice clear pictures of door posts, the door reveal so that i can see how the new section should look when fitted. It would also really help to know a distance from the front edge of the rear quarter (back edge of door gap) to the face of the B post (face that the striker for the lock fixes) as a guide:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The moulding on the subrail/rocker:

    [​IMG]

    And the inside of the quarter and subrail. I have seen pictures that should an L shaped piece of steel welded to the subrail and to the inside of the rear wheel tub. Previous had added a long bent L shape pie cut in sections. It was low at the back and wide at the front, hence new subrails:

    [​IMG]


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  8. Jasper234
    Joined: Oct 11, 2011
    Posts: 54

    Jasper234
    Member

    Thank you to anyone who is willing to share experience and photos. I’m an amateur and have taken on more than I thought (don’t we all!!). Positives: there is no rot anywhere. Negatives: I am having to break every panel down, repair the edges and then figure out how they should have been......

    Thanks


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  9. Jasper, I have these pix that I got with an unassembled body. They are in no particular order, hope they help Brookville 052.JPG Brookville 053.JPG Brookville 054.JPG Brookville 055.JPG Brookville 056.JPG Brookville 057.JPG Brookville 058.JPG Brookville 059.JPG Brookville 060.JPG
     
  10. Just about done Brookville 101.JPG Brookville 102.JPG Brookville 103.JPG Brookville 104.JPG Brookville 105.JPG Brookville 106.JPG Brookville 107.JPG Brookville 108.JPG Brookville 109.JPG
     
  11. Last ones Brookville 110.JPG Brookville 111.JPG Brookville 112.JPG Brookville 113.JPG Brookville 126.JPG Brookville 127.JPG Brookville 128.JPG Brookville 129.JPG Brookville 130.JPG
     
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  12. Jasper234
    Joined: Oct 11, 2011
    Posts: 54

    Jasper234
    Member

    That’s an enormous help. I’ve spent weeks trawling the internet and looking for books or data sheets that show the detail of how a 32 should go together, and despite it being such a well photographed and much built rod, there are very few places you can find this detail. So very grateful.

    If anyone else has pictures that show detail of how bodies and frames are assembled, I know that there are lots of us out there who would also be very grateful for your pictures. Maybe post them here?

    And maybe one day I’ll have a car that’s not so shabby I can’t put a picture here to show I didn’t make too much of a mess!!!!

    Thanks 2deuces64.


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  13. Happydaze
    Joined: Aug 21, 2009
    Posts: 1,083

    Happydaze
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Some of the pics of those Brookville welds make me feel so much better about my 3w - especially the underside of the rear corners. I thought it might have just been mine!

    There must be some Brookville roadster bodies, or Henry's, on an unfinished state in the NW of England or perhaps wider afield that you could get a look at. You could ask on NSRA, VHRA or RnS? I sold mine a year or so ago otherwise you'd have been most welcome to inspect, and it had plenty of those ugly underside welds too!

    Chris
     
  14. Jasper234
    Joined: Oct 11, 2011
    Posts: 54

    Jasper234
    Member

    Hi Chris

    No one I know I’m afraid. I don’t know many people to be honest, but always grateful if someone wants to offer!!

    UK NSRA ain’t what it used to be either.....


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  15. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 16,575

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Oof, those wire welds by Brookville are ugly. They might be all jigged and square, but the welds holding it together sure are boogery. I guess Brookville can buy grinders just like us mere mortals can.
     
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  16. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 7,136

    krylon32
    Alliance Vendor
    from Nebraska

    Looks like they need (Brookville) little more practice with overhead welding?
     
    X38 likes this.
  17. Jasper234
    Joined: Oct 11, 2011
    Posts: 54

    Jasper234
    Member

  18. x77matt
    Joined: Mar 2, 2004
    Posts: 713

    x77matt
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Hey Jasper- let me know if you want any more detailed shots from my build and I can add them here. Looks like you got a few good ones from the Brookville body...

    Matt
     
  19. Jasper234
    Joined: Oct 11, 2011
    Posts: 54

    Jasper234
    Member

    Hi Matt

    Thanks for the message. I’d be grateful for pictures that cover the tops of the quarters and around the back of the seat area and the panel above the deck. Interested to see how the panels are formed around the ‘cockpit’ and the wood tack strip and how the steelwork is formed below the strip itself?

    Is that possible?

    Have been following your build - your work’s amazing. Real inspiration.

    Thanks so much



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    x77matt likes this.

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