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Need welding help!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by fxstc127ci, May 15, 2013.

  1. fxstc127ci
    Joined: Jul 4, 2012
    Posts: 104

    fxstc127ci
    Member

    I'am modifying a 32 steering box for my av8 project. I'am well aware that the f1 box is a better choice but I would like to stay early mid 40's. I cut,squared and chaffered up the box extension tack welding using a tig welder across from each other so there was a 1/2 inch space between each tack weld. I then heated the unit and welded it looked like it was going good when it cooled I noticed it cracked it the center of the weld. I consider myself a good mig welder with 20+ years experience but the tig is still kind of new to me I'am improving though. The welder is a miller diversion 165 I'am using .045 alloy rod. Can anyone tell me what I'am doing wrong? I have inclosed some pictures.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 5,719

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    Looks like a casting, tricky to weld with any technique. I'd try pre and post heating (slow cooldown...under a welding blanket or immerse in sand to kitty litter) along with the TIG.
     
  3. Ditto, slow down the cool down time- no nickle in the casting is there?
     
  4. Weld a bit and peen it in while it is cooling. The reason for the crack is shrinkage, kinda like swimming in a cold lake.
     
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  5. Da' Bomb
    Joined: Apr 8, 2005
    Posts: 438

    Da' Bomb
    Member

    3X on the slower cooling, slow warm up, weld, blanket wrap, slow cool

    Pat
     
  6. Flop
    Joined: Jun 8, 2006
    Posts: 3,885

    Flop
    Member

    what rod were you using ? i have had luck with cast parts using a stainless rod with high nickel or a ni99 rod . like others said pre heat, post heat and peen the weld !
     
  7. Ole don
    Joined: Dec 16, 2005
    Posts: 2,915

    Ole don
    Member

    I welded my F1 steering box with a mig and mild steel. No pre-heat, big tack in three places with the shaft in, let it cool and removed the shaft, then I layed into it at about 90 amps. I let it cool naturally and all was good.
     
  8. 1ton
    Joined: Dec 3, 2010
    Posts: 358

    1ton
    Member

    A preheat and slow cool down of the part is a must. I,ve used the nickle rod with arc welding on castings. Works fine but the best way to weld castings imho is by using a silicon bronze filler rod with tig. Get it hot,keep it hot, slow cool down.
     
  9. barett
    Joined: Jul 1, 2012
    Posts: 461

    barett
    Member
    from Taylor TX

    I agree with 1ton, silicon rod is amazing with cast, I'd try it out on something else first though, it flows kinda funny...
     
  10. suorzuan
    Joined: May 8, 2013
    Posts: 2

    suorzuan
    Member
    from Buffalo

    That is a nice start to it.[​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  11. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 15,322

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    When I welded a '32 flange onto an F-1 box, I preheated all the parts thoroughly with a torch, welded thoroughly with a MIG (same old wire we use for general steel), kept the heat going again with a torch, then let it cool slowly in the 72 degree still air. Luckily no cracks.

    I'd always heard to use a MIG, not a TIG.
     
  12. fxstc127ci
    Joined: Jul 4, 2012
    Posts: 104

    fxstc127ci
    Member

    Thank you everyone that gave advice and suggestion's. I went to local welding shop they suggested stainless 309l, preheat and pean weld. I weld successfully with no cracks just have to weld flange and frame.
     

    Attached Files:

  13. Barsteel
    Joined: Oct 15, 2008
    Posts: 726

    Barsteel
    Member
    from Monroe, CT

    Chiming in a bit late here, but I've had very good luck welding cast iron with cast iron/nickel mig wire that I got from McMaster-Carr. Here's the link:

    http://www.mcmaster.com/#ni-55-cast-iron-welding-wire/=mswp6j

    It ain't cheap, but it works. Used minimal preheat, and room temp cooldown. Ground clean and hit with a needle scaler for texture. Once it's painted, the weld is invisible.

    I'll back up what the others are saying re: welding cast. I bought the Lincoln Welding School textbook, and they recommend a preheat, peening, and slow cooldown. If anyone should know for sure, it would be those folks.

    Chris
     

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