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Need some PPG DP90LF advice

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by dodgerodder, Jul 19, 2010.

  1. dodgerodder
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 1,943


    I need the help of somebody with some experience shooting
    PPG DP90LF
    . I am using this on my Brookville rpu, so it is all clean new steel.

    I am a paint idiot:eek:. I spoke with PPG for their advice, & I do trust them fully. I would just like some advice from somebody with hands-on experience.

    PPG said the DP90LF has to go on top of their 1791/1792 etch on bare steel, and they do not recommend spraying the DP90LF direct to bare metal. Does this sound like the way you would do it if it were your car?

    Again, I am not questioning PPG, and don't want to take a short cut at this point. I just want to be sure that I am giving my car the best protection possible. I have heard other say that the DP90 works great on bare metal??? I figure the manufacturer knows best:confused:

    Thanks in advance for your help guys, I really appreciate!

    Last edited: Jul 20, 2010
  2. PeteFromTexas
    Joined: Apr 4, 2007
    Posts: 3,837


    I do it all the time. Make sure the metal is roughed up good before spraying it. I 80 grit it with a DA sander before hand. Make sure and do the whole thing. Every little spot or it won't stick.
  3. buckeye_01
    Joined: Jun 20, 2005
    Posts: 1,442


    I've sprayed tons of bare steel panels with it and never had a problem. As mentioned above, hit it with 80 on a DA to give the panel a little tooth before spraying it.
  4. brandon
    Joined: Jul 19, 2002
    Posts: 6,187


    dust the last coat , for that less than gel coat look:D
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  5. 40StudeDude
    Joined: Sep 19, 2002
    Posts: 9,211


    I've used DPLF50 (virtually the same stuff) on several of my cars...right over bare metal (one car I did 8 years ago and ran it that way for four)'s never released and would take 36 grit to get it off now...and I just did my '55 Caddy the same...I wouldn't hesitate to put it over bare metal again...

  6. jonathan
    Joined: Feb 12, 2007
    Posts: 390

    from Phoenix,AZ

    Yup. Rough it up with 80 on a DA first. And make sure to get into the corners of the body lines with some folded up 80 by hand. It's a chore and takes time, but you don't want to take any chances.
  7. I'd have to question the advice you were given.Epoxy primer isnt supposed to be applied over etch primer,I would ask the PPG rep again.I apply DP90LF over bare metal all the time,I use the DP401LF as the activator.
  8. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,964

    pimpin paint
    from so cal


    Given that Ditzler/PPG's DP90LF no longer contains any lead, cad or zinc, I'd move over to a full urethane primer! "Perhaps" the PPG rep was thinkin' the additional etch prime would help the DPLF to perform as the product had in years past, when it contained these metals?

    " Do not be too quick to drink the Kool-Aid "
  9. 40fordtudor
    Joined: Jan 3, 2010
    Posts: 2,504


    we shot DP90 on the 40 right over bare metal
  10. Weedburner 40
    Joined: Jan 26, 2006
    Posts: 420

    Weedburner 40
    from California

    We've been using the DP series on bare metal for 30+ years. One thing that we have always done is to use Metal Prep/Galva Prep on it. This is an etching/phosphatising step that makes the primer stick extremely well. The no lead is an issue now but it still works great.
  11. built2grind
    Joined: Dec 24, 2009
    Posts: 87



    I use this stuff all the time on my projects. Its a great product to use but not as great as the old stuff (DP90). DP90LF is designed to be a lead free "sealer" primer and used directly over bare metal. I would rough up the surface with a DA sander using 80 grit or bead blast it, which ever you prefer. Clean the surface good using a wax and grease remover. Mix the sealer according to the label, 2 parts DP90LF primer to 1 part DP402LF hardener. Let it sit in the pot for about 10 minutes, this gives the product time to mix and react with each other. Now its time to spray. Give it 2 coats for even coverage but 3 coats is even better. Don't forget to wait 5 minutes between coats to avoid drips, runs, or sags. I've heard you can apply body filler right over it but I suggest roughing up the surface with a grinder to promote adhesion. You can can even use it as a sealer right before painting your car, just reduce it with PPG DT870 reducer about 10% and it flows real nice. Hope this helps.

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