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Need some Cruise-o-matic help

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 46international, Dec 3, 2012.

  1. I have a cast iron Ford transmission that I think is a Cruise-o-matic, the Model # on the tag on the drivers side is PAZ-7003-AZ I did some searching on the WEB and found some info on ford trans ID. On this page it shows two differant type oval tags, one with red strips and one all just one color. My tag has the red stripes, but they are diagional stripes not up and down.

    Pan shape and filter shape are the same as what is listed as a 63-67 FMX or FX.
    these are 3 speed transmissions, which brings me to my question, Why do I only have 5 detented positions on the shift lever? I would think I would have P,R,N,D2,D1,L .
     
  2. Thunderroad312
    Joined: Nov 18, 2012
    Posts: 159

    Thunderroad312
    Member

    What you have is a single range Ford-o-Matic. The pan shape is the same as FMX and FX (small case) Cruiso. My reference shows 57 Ford 292 for that code. Sounds right to me. BTW that is still a three speed unit. However in drive it takes off in second unless you floor it. The only difference between that and a Cruiso is a sprag clutch and the valve body.The unit only has five postions because it is a single range unit, all you get is PRNDL. It can be manually shifted by staarting in L wind it out, shift to D, then back to L to hold it in second, wind it out and shift ot D for high gear. Good solid trans, but the second gear take off is a bit sluggish by todyas standards. Hope this helps.
     
  3. The second gear takeoff is a godsend for bias ply tires in rain or snow. It lessens the torque the tires see, therefore easing the takeoff.

    I know these year Fords want to spin tires, as it was raining this morning :)

    Cosmo
     
  4. Thanks for the help guys, I have to start making up a shifter and just did not know what was up with the 5 position manual shift lever.
    By the way, this is behind a 292 Y-block in a model A tudor sedan.

    Any ideas on a shifter? must be home made of older than 1960 to fit with the style build.
     
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  5. Thunderroad312
    Joined: Nov 18, 2012
    Posts: 159

    Thunderroad312
    Member

    I think Hurst still markets the "Indy-Matic". This was a fitz-all universal floor shift. Even if it is not still made, there's got to be some around at swapmeets etc. It would definately look the part. Also a shifter from a 55-57 Little-Bird would look great. The only drawback would be the price. T-Bird parts bring crazy stupid$$$.
     
  6. garcoal
    Joined: Nov 15, 2006
    Posts: 277

    garcoal
    Member

    have one in my tbird. im not impressdby th 2nd gear take off. it was expense to rebuild and way heavy. not like everything else on my bird. my opinion you could make better, more mpg , cheaper to rebuild
     
  7. garcoal, I just ordered a rebuild kit for the trans, 139.00 from Mac's, kit has clutch plates but no bands or bushings, so that's not too bad. and it could be fun shifting it manually. also the case looks just like the criuse-o-matic so it's not heaver than one of them. thanks for the input.

    thunder, yes, anything t-bird is way too much. if I don't find something else i will try to fab up a shifter (can't be too hard) famous last words!!!
     
  8. Thunderroad312
    Joined: Nov 18, 2012
    Posts: 159

    Thunderroad312
    Member

    Sounds like you got a handle on it. BTW, I also wanted to congratulate you and cheer you on for putting a Y-Block in your A. Those are very cool motors. I think you'd be hard pressed to find a better looking or sounding engine. Been messing with those, and Fords in general, my whole life and its in my blood. One more thing before I go, I'd love to hear and see more about your swap. Are you on A rails? I plan on doing the same to mine soon and would like to know more.Randy
     
  9. Thanks for the help with this. One other thing, I understand the throttle pressure valve on this trans is not just a &#8220;kick down&#8221; valve, and it must be connected to let the trans shift correctly. In looking at some manuals and info on the web, it looks like the lever on the side of the case should be full clockwise when the throttle is at idle. ( less the 3 turns of the clevis). So if this is true, the linkage should move counter clockwise as the throttle is opened, right? Is it true that the linkage should be full counter clockwise when the throttle is full open? <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
     
  10. Thunderroad, Yes the car is still on A rails, full box. I streatched the frame 5 1/2" to get the room with out cutting the firewall. I'm running a 48 spring in front axle.
     

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  11. Thunderroad312
    Joined: Nov 18, 2012
    Posts: 159

    Thunderroad312
    Member

    Re the throttle pressure linkage yes, you must have it to regulate the shift points and yes, when the throttle is released,or at idle, the lever on the trans is up. As throttle pressure is applied the lever moves down. You should fell some spring resistance when you push it down. The factory used a bell-crank to transfer the motion from the carburetor linkage to the trans. The bell-crank bolted to the back of the intake on those two casting bosses on the left side. The bell-crank looks simple, but it actually consists of two plates held together with a spring. This was done because the range of motion for throttle pressure is less than the throttle arm at the carb. Once it reaches a point the throttle pressure arm on the trans bottoms, but the spring loaded plate allows the carb to open fully,if that makes sense. As long as you find one for a Ford-O or early Cruise-O thru '60 it should work. Starting in '61 they went to vacuum modulation, and the bell-crank is differnent as it is for kickdown only.I'm glad you have read some in the manuals and understand this, because I don't know how many cars I've seen with missing or incorrect linkage, and when I try to explain it to the owners, they can't seem to get their head around it. Btw I got your pm and I recommend going to y-blocksforever and see if someone has someparts for you. I also highly recommend Y-block Magazine. What steering box are you using on your car? I'm still collecting pieces for mine. It's all stock now and the cars runs and drives well. Should probably leave it alone, but that wouldn't be any fun. Mine is a coupe, but might just end up topless. Keep the faith.
     
  12. the steering box and column is a 57 or so chevy 1/2 ton truck. in the photo you can see the bracket I made to mount it above the frame. the pitman arm is Chevy also but I made an adapter to use the ford tie rod end on the drag link. ( i have a small lathe)
     
  13. d2_willys
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,096

    d2_willys
    Member
    from Kansas

    The TV rod is a critical adjustment, but if you adjust it 1/2 to 1 turn too tight you will get a true 1st gear start in DR. It also causes the transmission to shift gears at a much higher speed. And the shifts are hard as hell too. Just FYI.
     
  14. ididntdoit1960
    Joined: Dec 13, 2011
    Posts: 943

    ididntdoit1960
    Member
    from Western MA

    I've been told lokar's FMX shifter will work (on my 61 bird cruiso/MX trans) I ended up adapting my column shifter (1960 f100) instead
     
  15. 57Custom300
    Joined: Aug 21, 2009
    Posts: 1,288

    57Custom300
    Member
    from Arizona

    And I thought I was the only one that did that! Back in the day guys thought I had a manual trans in my 56.

    Regarding the trans throttle linkage Im sure theres info out there to adjust it. I know its not in the 57 Ford shop manual. Had to adjust it in my 56 after I put a 3X2 set-up on it but I cant recall where I got it (its been 45 yrs). It will let you know real quickly that its not right.
     
  16. ididntdoit, the FMX unit has 6 positions, my ford-o-matic only has 5 but that does not mean it can't be "adapted" thanks for the idea

    57cutsom, I have some info on adjusting the "stock" linkage I was just thinking about making something up. But it looks like it may not be too hard finding the correct parts, at least if the lead I have not does not fall through.
     

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