Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects Need info on 1955/1956 Buicks.

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by IronMikeLorah, Apr 11, 2017.

  1. IronMikeLorah
    Joined: Apr 11, 2017
    Posts: 5

    IronMikeLorah

    I'm new to the page and was hoping to get some help on a few things. First things first, I'm looking start up a project in the near future but I'm stuck on a few things. I'm looking to get my hands on a Buick but there are a few things I need to get cleared up.

    First, I would prefer to get a '55 two door but all I ever seem to see are 56' Buicks out there. Since that's the case, I was wondering (and hoping they would) if '55 front fenders, hood, and grill parts would fit a '56. I could care less about how original the car is since my plan is a bit crazy anyway. I would imagine that they would fit with some help, but I'm not sure.

    Second, engine options. I was hoping to try and shoehorn a 455 into the thing, but I need to know who the best dealers are with parts and how many options there are for big block Buick V8s. I already know what trans I'm putting in it so I don't need any help there.

    Third, frame and chassis. What frames would fit a '55/'56 Buick two door and what are my best options?
     
  2. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,984

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I had a 55 Special 4 door hardtop in 1966/68 that was a great car. Almost better lines than the two door cars and my friends loved the room in the back seat and being able to get in and out easy.
    I don't know why you think you need a frigging frame swap under one though as I drove that car at 80 as much as I drove it at 50 in that time frame and had the tickets to prove it and it drove great. The front end may cost a bit more to rebuild but the brakes are damned good for drum brakes and disk front kits are easy to find. A truck bar rear suspension setup works good in replacing the torque tube drive shaft.
    Outside of oil filter clearance issues that come with most anything you put that series of Buick engines in I don't see big issues on running the 455.
    I'm not a fan of frame swaps just because you think you have to do one because that is what the "cool guys do" or because the guys down at the corner spit and whittle club say that is the way to do it. However if you get a car with a decent body and a junk frame all bets are off. The 56 special has a 122 inch wheel base which is real close to the mid 70' GM big cars but they may be too wide in the track. early 80's Electras and their matching Olds 98 may be closer to the right width in track but the wheelbase is short by a few inches but that may be fixed by cutting a few welds and sliding the end supframes out a bit and rewelding the frame.
     
  3. IronMikeLorah
    Joined: Apr 11, 2017
    Posts: 5

    IronMikeLorah

    That was helpful on some of my questions, thanks. As for the frame swap, I'm just asking in case the only ones I can get my hands on have frame rot (I'm in upstate NY so rust is always a issue here). If the frame isn't worthless then I won't bother taking it out from under the car (why waste good parts, right?).
     
  4. I'm in the process of building a 55 with a 78 GM B body frame. IIRC the w/b of the 78 was 116", the Buick is 122. We cut and extended the frame, cut and built a new rear section above the rear axle to the rear body mounts. The original frame was collision damaged and poorly repaired previously to my ownership and the decision was made to replace in place of subframing and changing the rear to aftermarket 4 link or parallel leaf springs.

    Body mounting got a little creative, the mounts pretty much lined up with the frame so we drilled through the frame to mount the body. I too am using a 455 Buick, we did have to relocate the engine and transmission rearward as it sat too far forward in the engine compartment. Axle width is wider front and rear, you will have to watch wheel and tire width. Steering column connection to steering gear was pretty cut and dry, I used an Ididit column, IIRC 66 GM A body, two u-joints and their connector shaft. The mount to the dash panel was pretty easy, a heavy duty u-bolt and rubber insulation aligned with the stock column mount. The lower mount to the floor pan was something my friend had around, forget whet it came off of or where it came from.

    Brake booster/Master cylinder is now firewall mounted, we used a pedal from a o/t (Pontiac Aztek) used a 94 Caprice booster together with the stock 78 master cylinder. Pedal pretty close, we need to massage it a bit for pedal pad placement I think.

    Hope this has been some help for you. Message me if you need some more information.
     

  5. IronMikeLorah
    Joined: Apr 11, 2017
    Posts: 5

    IronMikeLorah

    Thanks for the useful info. I didn't think the 455 would just drop right in, so glad that was confirmed before buying everything and getting started.
     
  6. The project was stalled for a couple of reasons not related to the build but will resume this spring.

    I wanted power steering and upgraded braking on this car, hence the original subframe plan. Camaro/Firebird/Nova subframes are not the easiest thing to find around here anymore. The kinked rear frame rail together with the destroyed rear crossmember were the deciding factor as I think the frame was diamonded , they hacked the rear body mounts to fit the frame. We are within a 1/8" inch square on the modded frame, good to go. And the best part is that all suspension components are over the counter parts, and if a control arm gets damaged, a factory part is a lot easier to find vs. a specialty part when you are on the side of the road.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.