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Need Help With Overheating BB Mopar

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by whitedawg, Jun 14, 2011.

  1. whitedawg
    Joined: Jun 4, 2009
    Posts: 24

    whitedawg
    Member

    I am running a 440 (approx 700 miles) , Howe Aluminum Radiator, Aluminum Shroud, a flex fan, and Vintage Air in my 60 Dodge.
    After replacing the thermostat with a new 195 I thought I had the problems taken car of
    The past weekend drove about 100 miles to a car show left in the am ran 70 without a/c temp stayed close to 195 but by the time I got in the gate and parked it was pushing 240
    Coming home temp was in mid 90s ran a/c and as long as I kept the speed around 65 and had airflow across the radiator temp was about 205
    when I got off the interstate and caught the first light jumped to almost 230 while idling waiting for light to change
    It appears I am not getting good circulation at low speeds. I have no room for a pusher between the grill and radiator.
    Without throwing a lot of $$$ at an unknown what are my options? High flow pump?
    Appreciate any ideas Thanx
     
  2. hemiheadnc
    Joined: Nov 30, 2008
    Posts: 31

    hemiheadnc
    Member

    ..get rid of the flex fan and use the Mopar non-flex and a thermal fan clutch, used to be a package from Ma Mopar, I've used that on tow rigs, street rods, muscle mopars both BB and SB and on my Hemi-Charger. Workee FINE !!!!
     
  3. 61falcon
    Joined: Jan 1, 2009
    Posts: 772

    61falcon
    Member

    ditch the flex fan. has this engine always run hot? years back me and a buddy were given a 455 olds. the guy we got it from said it runs hot and he couldnt figure why. we took the intake off because there was blue silicone oozing from everywhere. we found the coolant passages through the intake were plugged with silicone that was smeared all over the intake gaskets. new gaskets and no silicone. that 455 ran 190 all day long.
     
  4. brad chevy
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,627

    brad chevy
    Member

    Definitely toss the flex fan and go with the clutch fan. Flex fans are not worth the time it takes to put them on,especially in a fendered and hooded car. Some work okay in an open engine compartment hot rods but if you have ever seen one come apart,you"ll never use one again.
     

  5. moparmike
    Joined: Oct 26, 2005
    Posts: 67

    moparmike
    Member
    from Austin, Tx

    Never had good luck with flex fans on any of my RB's. Get the big fan and clutch from Mopar. And post some pics of your rig.
     
  6. Duration
    Joined: Oct 2, 2006
    Posts: 543

    Duration
    Member
    from Wayne, MI

    seriously, switch to a 160 or 180 stat at most. 195 is to hot for an old 440. change the fan and make sure it has a shroud. im not a fan of aluminum radiators but making other changes should cool you off and you can keep the rad.
     
  7. fiveohnick2932
    Joined: Mar 29, 2006
    Posts: 891

    fiveohnick2932
    Member
    from Napa, Ca.

    I have a stock "big ass" dodge wagon clutch fan on my truck and that thing NEVER gets hot (when the clutch is working). Not sure if its the viscus fan or not but, it worked for a 383 in a wagon with A/C. One of my last trips the clutch went out and it got a little warm in the middle of july I-80 sac traffic, but once I started moving it was A-OK.

    Just another thought, is your motor .060 over?? What about exhaust (size and mufflers), my truck ran cooler when I took the flowmasters off and put on some dynomax ultra-flo mufflers.
     
  8. junkyardjeff
    Joined: Jul 23, 2005
    Posts: 8,128

    junkyardjeff
    Member

    Years ago I had a flex fan on a 72 AMX and done fine while moving but as soon as I stopped it started getting hot,put a stock fan on it and no more problems.
     
  9. whitedawg
    Joined: Jun 4, 2009
    Posts: 24

    whitedawg
    Member

    Thanx for the inputs
    The engine was built by the local Mopar guru, who is also is the inventor of the JVX shifter
    The engine is .30 over with a 6 pack cam, stock exhaust manifold and running 2 1/2 exhaust with magnaflow muffler
    Clutch fan sounds like the way to go for a start. Will try and get some pictures up in next day or so
     
  10. american opel
    Joined: Dec 14, 2006
    Posts: 1,222

    american opel
    Member
    from ohio

    take the HUGE wind breaker-heat maker condencer off the front of it {ac}and i bet it doesnt get hot.to me hot rods and air just dont get along.if you want to drive around town with the air on just go buy a new car.if you want to drive around town with your air on your hot rod plan on troubles unless you put a 4 banger in it.sorry just my 2c.
     
  11. Nemosgarage
    Joined: Sep 21, 2009
    Posts: 137

    Nemosgarage
    Member

    check your timing it made a differance on my 440.:)
     
  12. fiveohnick2932
    Joined: Mar 29, 2006
    Posts: 891

    fiveohnick2932
    Member
    from Napa, Ca.

    Sounds like a stock 440 Magnum with good exhaust, should be ok. My bet, ditch the fan for sure and get a good stock A/C fan.
     
  13. narlee
    Joined: Dec 7, 2009
    Posts: 240

    narlee
    Member

    As stated earlier, check your timing.
     
  14. 32STUPRES
    Joined: Nov 9, 2008
    Posts: 360

    32STUPRES
    Member

    I'm running a 30 over '66 383 with a flex fan and shroud..82,000 hot rod miles and never overheats, but did experience a problem a few years back and discovered even with 36 louvers on each side of my 32 Stude President, I was "trapping and stirring" heat under the hood in slow traffic..put a pusher fan on front of the ac condensor and flip it on when driving slow..Presto it pushes the hot air out and stopped the problem. I am running a 180 thermostat and 50-50 antifreeze/distilled water..I flip the pusher fan off while on the road and consistantly run 190-195 on a 95+day...but will gradually creep up to 205-210 in lots of traffic. Talked to Walker Radiators and he said son, the new alkygas we're running is good for an additional 15 degrees over what us old timers are used to. I know I don't like 200 plus, but he said lots of his customers are running 220-225 consistantly...I agree with the others also on the timing...these big block Mopars like a lot of timing..mine is 12 1/2 BTC..too slow will definitely cause the temp to rise...I also run air and can't tell much difference with the compressor off vs. on. Also be sure the vacuum advance is working to advance the timing with a little throttle..Hope this helps..
     
  15. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 30,185

    Mr48chev
    Member

    It does sound like the fan you have on it isn't moving enough air. And I am another one who says go to a clutch fan. I actually have a clutch fan off an 85 Dodge Van on my 71 GMC (I had it) and that thing will just about suck a cat through the radiator.

    The 48 with a 250 six in it and a skimpy flex fan (no space) does exactly what you said your car does. Good on the road and as soon as you slow down the temp gauge starts to climb and as soon as it is moving and catching some air again the gauge drops right back down to 180. That is with 120 louvers in the hood. The flex fan just doesn't pull enough air.
     
  16. SS350Sport
    Joined: Dec 6, 2008
    Posts: 71

    SS350Sport
    Member
    from Utah

    I didn't see what water pump you are running. Are you running one of the early aluminum water pumps from "440 Source"? They had some horrible cast flashing problems internally (CHINA) and hampered flow at low speeds.
     
  17. fiveohnick2932
    Joined: Mar 29, 2006
    Posts: 891

    fiveohnick2932
    Member
    from Napa, Ca.

    Flex fans should never be used on for anything that sees freeway driving. The factory A/C clutch fan was invented for a reason, take advantage of it.
     
  18. ems customer service
    Joined: Nov 15, 2006
    Posts: 2,594

    ems customer service
    Member

    go to hf tools and get one of those inferred laser temp scanners and look for cold and hot spots. you will be able to find them fast and it is a lot cheaper than changing parts
     
  19. derbydad276
    Joined: May 29, 2011
    Posts: 1,328

    derbydad276
    Member

    my 2 cents worth
    ditch the flex, go clutch
    install a 180 stat
    got room for a oil cooler? cool oil cool motor
     
  20. yardgoat
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 724

    yardgoat
    Member


    X 2 also make sure your bottom rad hose has a coiled wire in it to keep it from colapsing. Rev up motor and watch you rad hose,with out the wire the hose will flattin out,no water moving,heats up real fast............YG
     
  21. mopar362000
    Joined: Feb 14, 2008
    Posts: 99

    mopar362000
    Member

    Make sure u have water pump for ac .Dodge ran a different pump for non ac engines.Run an ac water pump with a mopar clutch fan.The ac water pump had less impeller fins.Jimmie King
     
  22. T McG
    Joined: Feb 12, 2005
    Posts: 1,262

    T McG
    Member
    from Phoenix

    Thats just a dumb statement, what about the millions of cars on the road with a/c that cool just fine. He obviously has another problem. Just my 2c
     
  23. Lust 4 Rust
    Joined: Jan 29, 2008
    Posts: 8

    Lust 4 Rust
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from MN

    I would check the thermostat. I have bought new ones that don't work. I knew a guy that was having overheating problems with his Hemi. He was going nuts trying to find the problem. It was his radiator and it was a new one. Good luck. Lust 4 Rust!!!!
     
  24. T McG
    Joined: Feb 12, 2005
    Posts: 1,262

    T McG
    Member
    from Phoenix

    Another thing to look at is that radiator. Put an external fan of some sort in front of it and see what kind of air volume you have. I just had a 57 Chevy in the shop doing the same thing. It had some sort of aluminum radiator and there was almost no air going through it.

    What it came down to was too many fins per inch. This one had 19 and another one we had only had 12 per inch. There was a huge difference in air flow.

    Some manufacturers do it this way for whatever reason. I talked to a tech guy at Ron Davis radiators and theirs are the same way. When he was questioned about a car that had the same issues you are having, he got all bent out of shape and said they build race car radiators and they really don't work that well on the street.

    I agree with the others about the flex fan, and quite possibly a clutch fan could solve your problem, but I would check air flow just for the fun of knowing.
     
  25. flatoutflyin
    Joined: Jun 16, 2010
    Posts: 385

    flatoutflyin
    Member

    I had a 440 CHP spec A38 '78 Monaco. Factory max cool pkg equipped with giant 7 blade fan/clutch, 26" radiator and shroud, PS cooler, separate engine oil cooler, external trans cooler, AC compressor cut-out, even had a thing called a Thermo-guard to protect the battery, and foil covered insulation under the floor mat, and in the wheel wells to protect the front suspension bushings. That thing created lots and lots of heat. As I remember I ran 36° total advance. It ran cool regardless. That fan/clutch moves an incredible amount of air.
     

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  26. flatoutflyin
    Joined: Jun 16, 2010
    Posts: 385

    flatoutflyin
    Member

    If everything else checks out OK, this is what the 7 blade max cooling fan looks like-very aggressive blades, but one belt may not turn these things. Mopar made a stout flex fan if space is critical, but it is noisy. The aftermarket aluminum fan is positively wimpy compared to max.
     

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  27. fiveohnick2932
    Joined: Mar 29, 2006
    Posts: 891

    fiveohnick2932
    Member
    from Napa, Ca.

    The 383 in my truck came out of a 68 polara wagon with a/c. I saved everything for my transplant. It came with the 6 blade clutch fan and a small diameter water pump pulley (4.5-5"), so it spins up good at idle.
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2011

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