Need help with important Bare Metal Finsih question! 1929 roadster historic

As many of you know I'm still in the midst of recreating that '29 roadster that my good friend and fellow club member bult back in the late 1930s and raced at the dry lakes of California.

Now, here comes the qustion that I'm sure has been asked before, but that I was unable to successfully get answered by my searches here on the HAMB....

What the heck can I do (IF ANYTHING??) to retain a rust-less bare metal finish here on the east coast,..moreso here in the Rust-Belt of Pennsylvania?
Mind you, I'm not lanning on this puppy being a "take her out on the weekends" buggy either, but plan with all serious intent to actually drive it
"at least" one year, year-round!

The reason, and only reason I'm posing the bare metal versus finish question is due to the fact that Carl ran his '29 in bare metal after scraping off the paint that was in bad shape back then. Seeing as his money needed to go into the engine and chassis first and foremost, the body seemingly solid, needed only a thinned out amount of engine oil on a cloth wiped down now and then. Oh if he had only retained that hunk of iron and steel, but, to no avail against his wants, when married and after much badgering by his beloved wife, he sold the car in 1942 for a whopping $145 dollars! It was either the roadster or his wife,...well of course Carl always kids with a laugh saying, "....aw I should have sold HER! HA!"

Below I have included a small photo of the profile of the car back in its hay-day, with permission as I was given a copy for my own collection. You can actually see the scape marks from possibly a putty knife on the side of the cowl if you look. So, even though Carl himself recommended to paint it since I'm over here in rust-world my thoughts still tinker with the idea of runner her in bare metal!!??

Thanks for the help in advance fellas !


Carl's roadster at the dry lakes, circa 1940. (Notice the scrape markes on the side of cowl.)

 

paint it with something...anything or its going to disintegrate
facts are facts, remember even when painted cars start to rust before they leave a paint booth.

 

Hmmm,...yeah that's along the same thoughts I've been having,..but, I'm going to see what the knowlageable folks that have actually done something with bare metal,etc. have to say about their adventures with it.

Thanks for the input though,...if its paint its paint, no biggy...

 

I have powder coated raw metal with "clear" powder with good success. I haven't tried bodys but have done numerous fittings, and stuff I want to look nice but not have to keep polishing, cleaning, etc. It bonds well, and is extremely durable. Bad news is you can't have any filler anywhere cause it won't take the heat. You can even get different levels of gloss depending on the look you want. Anyone ever try this?

 

Hey,

For a traditional finish on bare metal try boiled linseed oil. It smells kinda 'funky', but is fairly cheep, and durable. It takes on a kinda amber patina,
with time, and doesn't look 'plastic-like' unlike clear poly or urethane.

Swankey Devils C.C.

"Meanwhile, back aboard The Tainted Pork"

 

I agree with this. However if you are willing to do upkeep by religiously wiping down parts with Gibbs or another oiling type product, isn't that even better protection than paint? I mean from a "seeing what's relly going on" stand point.

 

i've heard of this actually now you've mentioned it. I wonder how it would hold up to our PA weather out here though?? your neck of the woods is another story entirely!

 

Except for the fact that when I inquired into how stable and reliable Gibbs really is I was told by the fellow at roadsters.com who sells and promotes it that it's not meant for the east coast weather.
Otherwise, sure I'd go with it...

 

Gibbs brand

 

see my above statement....regarding what I was told regarding gibbs and the east coast.

 

jason..


like I said on the tele..

i would not recomment por 15 stuff


heres the link to MAS epoxies..

they are in NEW JERSEY..

http://www.masepoxies.com/public/index.cfm?fuseaction=articles.view&id=3082&publicationtype=Videos

 

Thanks Jeff.....
yeah no POR-15 stuff,..thanks for the talk,....good luck with that Mercedes!!

 

HOK and Alsa both have an adhesion promoter that is supposed to work with their clears for adhesion to bare metal. I haven't tried it and most likely won't, but its worth it to look into.

 

Call Brookville, they have been running that '32 3Window around in bare metal for 3 years or so. It has a coat of clear, but it looks like bare steel. If anyone wanted to highlight bare steel it is Brookville. If you go and cover it with any type of oil, painting it later will be a problem cleaning out seams.

 

Never thought of Brookeville, as I'm not aware of the 32 they have in bare steel,...I dont keep up with many new cars these days. All I know is that you have to ask for the father at Brookville because the son is about as courteous and pleasant as a lump on a log!

Yeah, I'm pretty shy towards anykind of oil on it,....it it were the left coast, I'd go with WD40 and scotchbrite! I'm afraid when it all comes down it will end up just getting a paintjob....

 

hmmm,...interesting,...i'm gonna see if there's any word on the web about anyone's use of that stuff. thank you.

 

From someone a LOT further on the "East Coast" than you are I would suggest that you prep and paint the seems and panel edges before final assembly so the rust doesn't get in places that you won't be able to get at to clean off. That way you will only have to contend with keeping the outer panels clean.
Oils like Gibbs just can't protect bare steel outside in the climate I have to contend with.
Good luck.

 

yeah i was thinking about that too,...and possibly throwing some undercoating in the doors and so on,....

 

Yes, I'd treat the car like it was going to be completely painted and exposed to all elements that any daily would be.
If you want to keep the thing in one piece it will have to be protected well.
I mean.. sheesh... a new car from the factory doesn't last many years around these parts before it needs attention.
It's really funny when I read about guys wanting bare metal or "original patina" for looks. Around here bare metal is called RUST. And after 2 yearly inspections it's called scrap.
I think what you are trying to do is a neat historical project and I am certainly interested in seeing how you protect it. You see.. I'm lazy and have far too many things to do now than having to baby-sit bare steel.

 

anyone ever hear of this stuff? just saw someone on somekind of other car website/forum mentioned it. said he used it for years and not a spec of rust??

Nyalic??


http://www.nyalic.com/

 

try "penetral" i had a bare body sit out side in the rain for a long time and never even started to rust, just brush or spray on a few coats...it works great.....i still use the crap out of it

 

Never try'd it but i'm thinking a clear coat with a flattening agent and also an additive that some body shops use for door jambs......when you spray a door jamb you don't and can't always sand every point so therefore the paint does not want to stick, I'm not sure that it will work but it may be worth looking into at a paint supplier that will try things and is not quick to just follow the book and say no. I have seen a few cars on the west coast with the linseed oil, it does work but out here you would have to wax it quite often with the oil.

 

yeah if it wasn't for the fact that the original was bare steel,..well,...you know! I wish our PA climate would start mimicking Pasadena's!!!

 

So where is "in my shop" located?? Just asking to compare your findings with the climate in my part of the good 'ol USA.

 

Yeah out here in california I hear guys use a clear coat with additives to make it stick, dont know if that would work for you out there.. good luck..
Anthony

 

I never heard of Nyalic so I did a quick search.
There might be some info on this forum I stumbled upon... they deal with boats so the need for protection from the elements is big.
http://www.woodenboat.com/forum//showthread.php?t=65358

edit: Never been to Pasedena CA but I spent a short week in the Lancaster county PA area and made a day-run to Philly (had a cheese steak.. man.. heaven) . Nice countryside.
But dry climate compared to NS, as I recall.

 

Central california ya its nice every day....hahaha

but im not joking a friend made some bare steel handrails in the 70's and used penetral there still is NO surface rust

 

So is it a penatrating "oil" substance or a kind of clear coat coating??

 

btt

 

1st, I would suggest that you wipe the body down with Metal-prep, which gives it a phosphate coating to stop rust. Phos-dips are what the auto companies use for rust protection. You can get it at any auto paint store. I left a Mustang in bare metal for years with just this on it.

I've been playing with a product that's used on aircraft. It was developed by Boeing & even bare metal will not rust. My buddy uses it on the bare metal parts in restored cars that he drives a lot.

This stuff has lubricants in it & dries to a waxy film when applied. It takes mineral spirits to remove a heavy coating. It's called;

Boeshield T-9.
made by PMS Products in Holland, MI
800.962.1732

According to their website, you can also get it at Sears.


It seems to work well, so I'm going to coat the underside of my roadster for B'ville next month.