Looking for a frame to put my 1922 franklin on I need a frame with a 116" wheel base and 32" wide any one know what might work for my project
What is wrong with the Franklin frame? In any case, for something like that I would duplicate the original in box tube. You're not going to hack that car up are you?
Chances of finding an original chassis for that would be slim, but if it were possible, then this thread should not be on a Hot Rod forum, which is where it is, so in true Hot Rod fashion, I say, cut, chop, repower that thing, and watch as the restorers get all bent outer shape.
you gotta chop it just to make that back window smaller it looks like a shopfront window !! cool car !
You don't really explain much about what you are after. If you are modifying it, should not be a big deal to duplicate the stock frame out of rectangular tube, altering it to suit your desired suspension. On the other hand if you are restoring your car, there are specialty lumber yards that can supply the same species wood, milled to your spec. Either way; don't think you will find any "off-shelf-chassis" that would be suitable.
If you feel you MUST attempt to use an existing frame, I'd suggest a late '20s to early '30s Dodge/Chrysler frame. The wheelbase is close, but you'd obviously have to alter the rear kickups slightly to fit the underbody. I've used Dodge rails on a few, (mostly Ford roadsters, where the cross members are 'narrowed', and rails are reshaped in the profile slightly) and of course, shortened. Do you have the original front axle? If so, use it! (or sell it to me...??) Last one I set up was a '27 T roadster, (my son 'Richinasnazay' on here is finishing the car for my other son Tory) The profile is superb, looks like '32 rails... Rich's other project is also on '29 Dodge rails, (I bought 3 chassis from an elder gent for $100 each) it's a '26 Dodge touring that has been shortened the rear door length. The chassis was long enough to be shortened to the new body parameters. Also a nice fit. But there is always the possibility of locating some factory frame drawings. (they are archived somewhere, an ad in Hemmings would likely turn up someone that has access) From there you get the measurements and cross sections, length and shape. As X38 mentioned, "box tubing". Some cutting and welding, but it can turn out as nice as you finish it. Great find! Worth a simple chassis build...
Not looking for original looking for something I can put under it to put a 350 in it can't do that with a wooden frame I want to put a 350 in this one i have another one that is more rear then this one just looking to see what frame I can put under it to do that the wood frame won't work
You've had some suggestions. Can we assume you don't want to fabricate one from rectangular box section? It's pretty standard practice. On the other hand, I hear an S-10 will fit anything.
I doubt anyone has ever done what your wanting to do. Copy the dimensions of original frame then duplicate in 2" X 4" .120 wall tubing. If you are looking for modern running gear to adapt your car to your at the wrong place. It's a great project I wish I were closer I would love to help you. There's a company in Seattle area that could make you a modern frame and running gear. Good luck keep us posted.
Call Art Morrison in Fife, WA and see what they can do..If you have a wood frame I'm sure they could duplicate it in steel...15k give or take..
Yea, that or maybe this - http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...ay-how-about-build-2-t-bucket-frames.1025433/ Wouldn't be any harder to make it a few inches wider or or longer
Not going to hack the car up just going to put in a better motor so I can drive it when ever I want with no issues my other franklin is staying all original
Going to pull it off the frame and power it with a 350 chevy our 360 dodge not sure yet but it will be 1 of them
This is my other franklin all original not going to mess with this one it is the only 1 in existence.
There was a partial Franklin on eBay. Nothing much of the body left but it may have the correct or close chassis you need Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
How about the Chevy AD pick up frame? 116 inch, hydraulic brakes all around, V8 mounts available already. They are very well backed in the aftermarked, There is a ton of options, axles/brakes/springs/dampers/gearing/trans/engine, they are everywhere and parts can be had at any pep boys/o'reilly/summit/speedway. Sid can drop your front axle, and it's starts too feel like a new car, and you can stop and go! Important stuff
I know, I'm late to the party, but I came by it naturally. My forefathers came over on the June Flower... I am working on a project where I chose a S10 chassis... Don't do it! The steering is in front of the front axle, as is about 15-18 inches of frame. The old cars don't want anything in front of the front wheels. As well as the width of the frame, behind the front wheels. If I had it to do again, I'd sure keep looking for other alternatives, or even fab my own... Just my 2 cents worth... Do those Franklins use two sets of leaf springs, one reversed, on top of the other? Cool old car. Enjoy your project.
The S10 was only nominated as a joke...due to the fact that people seem to think it's the universal solution...which, as you discovered, it isn't!
I've done two of these and a couple of Morgans that use the same set up. I would just duplicate the Ash rails in steel with the appropriate bolt holes sleeved and use everything else from the original frame. You can then run any drivetrain you wish off the steel rails. The ones I did we used 10ga, P&O press braked to the proper dimensions. Just remember to be careful when pulling the forgings for the spring hangers etc. along with the body mounts and all the mechanical stuff that bolts to the ash rails. This method makes an incredibly rigid frame and if you paint the rails in a soft black, (we used "Eastwood Matt Black" 2K), most folks won't notice the difference as the original frames, at least the ones we had, were black. Easier than it sounds and you don't need to modify any of the rest of the car. Way better than trying to use an inappropriate frame and will leave the car looking right. Call me in the shop if you should decide to do this and I can probably talk you or your fabricator through a couple of sticky spots. My shop number is in my HAMB-O-Dex.
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