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Need help with Ford Flathead

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by jake//NC\\Mi, Feb 20, 2005.

  1. jake//NC\\Mi
    Joined: Apr 10, 2004
    Posts: 91

    jake//NC\\Mi
    Member
    from michigan

    I need help. I tried to get my flathead running this weekend. I bought the engine from a guy who said it was a running motor, but it had been sitting for several years. The motor turned over fine, but had three valves stuck in the open position. I was able to get them loose with the help of my good friend WD40 and some light tapping with a hammer. The valves are loose, but still don't have compression in two cylinders. So I pulled the heads and intake and noticed the valve springs were still compressed but the valves still moved freely. After inspecting the engine I noticed there are no visible cracks in the block. Also, it appears the motor has been rebuilt. There are a couple of small scores in two cylinders. Other than that everything looks good. It has one piston that has different markings on the top of it. That's why I believe it has been rebuilt. So my question is.....Are there any other choices besides rebuilding the whole engine? And what kind of cost am I looking at if I decide to rebuild it? Nothing crazy...just a good runner. I attached a few pics. Any suggestions would be great.
     
  2. 296 V8
    Joined: Sep 17, 2003
    Posts: 4,666

    296 V8
    BANNED
    from Nor~Cal

    Sounds like you know why it doesn’t run. Flatheads are the same as any other motor. You need.
    Compression
    Spark
    Fuel
    Correct timing for all above
    Here is a good place to start looking for flathead stuff.
    http://www.roadsters.com/flathead/#Src
     
  3. maud
    Joined: Oct 4, 2003
    Posts: 121

    maud
    Member
    from Maud,Tx

    I'd keep putting the WD to it till whatever it is with the valve springs free themselves up, Then make sure the valves on that 4 cylinders are seating good, (get the block turned so that the valve seat will hold liquid, turn the motor till the valves close, then pour some gas on the valve head and see if it holds it or it leaks past. If they are good, put a new head gasket on it and take another compression check. If a valve leaks, you can pull it and lap in in on the motor with one of those suction cup hand lappers. I see the new piston, I doubt that it needs a rebuild.
     
  4. Reggie
    Joined: Aug 25, 2003
    Posts: 1,700

    Reggie
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I agree with the others. You should be able to get this running pretty easily. I would pull the valves from the low-compression cylinders clean them reassemble and lap them in.
     

  5. I go pogo
    Joined: Apr 22, 2003
    Posts: 485

    I go pogo
    Member

    You might want to pull those two pistons in the scored cylinders to check for broken rings. Pogo
     
  6. Automotive Stud
    Joined: Sep 26, 2004
    Posts: 4,184

    Automotive Stud
    Member

    I was in the same position as you a few months back. I head one dead cylinder and two with low compression. I knew I had one stuck valve. I tried every magic potion down the carb you could think of but it wouldn't come free. I even beat on it down the spark plug hole.

    I pulled the heads and intake and I was happy to see a pretty fresh engine that had sat for a while, .040 over pistons, nice walls. So I went ahead and sprung for new valves, zepher springs, adjustable lifters, and an isky cam. My friend ground all my valve seats and lapped in all the valves, and I put it back together with aluminum heads and dual carbs. Hopefully I'll have it running again next weekend.

    BTW the valve that was stuck is still stuck to the guide, good thing I had extra guides. If I wasn't so confident in the bottom end and I wasn't planning on keeping the car, I'd just pull out the ones that have no compression, get everything unstuck, and slap it back together, maybe replace a valve or two if needed with good used ones.
     
  7. jake//NC\\Mi
    Joined: Apr 10, 2004
    Posts: 91

    jake//NC\\Mi
    Member
    from michigan

    thanks for the help I think I will try to ustick the valve and lap them in by hand and run it till I come up with some more cash then rebuild the whole engine.
     
  8. hey man,

    dont be afraid of doing this...

    my story. i got a 28 AV8 roadster with a tired 8BA. I ran that thing for a year before doing a comrpession test. All cylinders were below 75psi (should be 100) and a couple were like 20psi. The thing still ran ... not super hard but it ran. With the help of FlatOz, we took the valves assemblies out and the pistons. We cleaned up all the valve cxomponents with a wire wheel and then diesel. Same with the pistons. We then honed the bore with WD40 and a hone that you can fit into the drill. We laped the valves in by hand.

    We noticed we had alot of broken rings so we replaced all of them. Slight, slight scoring in one clylinder and a lip opn another. We the reasembled the lot and its been back together about 6 months. Apart from some unrelated teething problems its been running really strong and more reliably every since.

    The moral of the story, if you can, just lap and hone and reassemble and have fun with it :) - if you can get it running, you may not need a rebuild.

    Danny
     

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