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Technical Need help repairing paint-self inflicted damage

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 5window, Jun 19, 2017.

  1. 5window
    Joined: Jan 29, 2005
    Posts: 8,241

    5window
    Member

    I have stupidly created this paint damage on my (slightly OT) car. I am hoping the mods will allow this thread to remain for a bit since the information might be needed later on someone else’s hotrod.

    There is basically paint and metal scratch damage in the tail piece and deep scratches and a very small ding on the quarter. I have limited body and paint skills, but would like to try to repair this myself. There is a local professional auto body/paint supply store nearby which can “shoot” the paint and modify the paint code and make me a rattle can of the right color.

    Any tips/video links, etc. on removing the scratches, filling the scratches and refinishing the tail piece would be appreciated. I am, slightly, encouraged that the most severe damage in limited to the tail piece and there are natural breaks at the top crease and seam for taping if needed. Thanks.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 49,315

    squirrel
    Member

    that's more than paint damage...that's a dent. Knock out the dent, grind down to metal, fill, shape, prime, sand, prime, sand, prime, paint. The extension will also be fun to fix, it's pot metal, so you can't knock out the dents.
     
    luckythirteenagogo likes this.
  3. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 5,737

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I would like to see this too, as I have the same problem with one of my cars. I bought some custom touch-up paint in a spray can from one of the specialty manufacturers on the web, and it looks like the color matches perfectly. I'd like to see something on surface preparation and final finishing.
     
    Back2school likes this.
  4. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 5,737

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks Jim; so far, so good. How's about something more specific like sandpaper grades for the various stages of repair. If I were to start now, it would be pure guesswork on my part. I'm sure some of you painter/body guys out there should have some pertinent information.
     

  5. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 49,315

    squirrel
    Member

    there are lots of how-tos on bodywork...and everyone does it a bit differently.

    Maybe someone else will be willing to do yet another how-to on dent repair, I don't feel like it right now :)
     
    firstinsteele likes this.
  6. town sedan
    Joined: Aug 18, 2011
    Posts: 1,290

    town sedan
    Member

    An old, but good book: "The Key To Metal Bumping" by Frank sargent.
    Good luck.
    -Dave
     
  7. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 5,737

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That's fine. It's just that I would be a bit more confidant in something I saw on here from one of the real pros, rather than some non-descript video on "YouTube" of Joe Blow fixing his Toyota.:rolleyes:
     
  8. Here is a video on the repair process up to paint.

     
  9. seb fontana
    Joined: Sep 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,034

    seb fontana
    Member
    from ct

    Would be better than nothing?
     
  10. tubman
    Joined: May 16, 2007
    Posts: 5,737

    tubman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yeah, I guess I am looking for more than "better than nothing".

    Thanks "K13" for the video.
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2017
  11. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 49,315

    squirrel
    Member

    If you really don't know how to do this stuff, you might want to learn on something a little more forgiving, and maybe pay to have this one fixed. There is a lot to learn, I've been dabbling in it for 40 years, and I doubt I could repair it so that you could not tell it had been repaired.

    The guys who are really good at it know a lot of tricks...
     
  12. The physical repair is not hard but blending the paint so it doesn't stand out like a sore thumb is tough especially with spray cans.
     
    tb33anda3rd likes this.
  13. fine29
    Joined: Sep 13, 2008
    Posts: 524

    fine29
    Member
    from Des Moines

    5window, I would source a new extension since it's pot metal and you can probably find a used one in your area for around $20-40.

    I would then fit it to the quarter to make sure it lines up well.(some of the re-pop ones suck and you have to modify the mounting holes in the body.)

    Once I got the quarter extension fit I would sand the damaged area with 40grit. I would then hammer and dolly the dents out as best you can then, get a quality filler and start to bring the panel back to shape. Start shaping the filler using 80 grit. Once the filler is shaped where I'm happy with it I'd prime it using a good 2k high build primer and I would guide coat and block that with 120. The guide coat will show you all you're highs and lows. Once the area is leveled with 120 I would block it with 220,320, 400 then, I would seal it.

    Now you need to scuff the rest of the quarter to prepare it for the paint blend and clear coat. You can scuff it using 1,000 grit or a red scotch brite pad.

    Now that the panel is scuffed find a good place to break the paint.( mustang really doesn't have one so you'll probably have to scuff and clear the roof and both quarters. Unless you wanted to add the lower roof trim from a vinyl top). For the quarter extension I would mount it to the body but I would space it out from the quarter using some washers so the paint can get all the edges and the piece isn't painted to the car and can be removed if needed in a the future.

    To blend put a light coat of paint on the area you primed and slowly feather your paint edge out to the already painted surface. Just go a little passed the primed area with each coat and kind of fog the edge in. Once you are satisfied with your blend you can re clear coat the panel. Let it dry thoroughly and then wet sand and buff the orange peel to mimic the rest of the car.
     
  14. The only thing I would say in regards to fine29's procedures is there is no need to take anything down to 40 grit with today's products. Using that course of a grit will greatly increase the potential for pinholes and to have sand scratches show through your finished work. It is an old school mentality that you need to have a heavy grit sand scratch for filler work that is no longer the case. I see it everyday in shops that still use 40 grit and that is with "trained techs" doing the work. 80 grit is as course as you need to go with any sanding.
     
    Bruce Fischer likes this.
  15. ol-nobull
    Joined: Oct 16, 2013
    Posts: 1,640

    ol-nobull
    Member

    Hi. My 46 Coupe was painted by previous owner in 1990. He kept a can of the paint he used so I had the numbers for that color from the can. I took the car & can to the local Tasco paint supplier & they did me a quart & 2 rattle cans and it is a perfect match. They told me that if someone could not come up with the name of the color or have the numbers they could take a digital close up picture of the paint on the car and computer match it just like having the numbers. I guess kind of like paint DNA or such. Good luck, jimmie
     
    robertrj likes this.
  16. Gman0046
    Joined: Jul 24, 2005
    Posts: 6,260

    Gman0046
    Member

    I'm with Squirrel on this one. That damage is not going to come out right for a novice with a spray can. Save yourself time, money and effort and get it repaired properly. You'll be much happier in the long run.

    Gary
     
    fine29 likes this.
  17. john worden
    Joined: Nov 14, 2007
    Posts: 1,703

    john worden
    Member
    from iowa

    The low in the pot metal qtr. extension can be filled.
    A nicely repaired original is better than a probably poor fitting extension repop.
     
    tb33anda3rd and squirrel like this.
  18. i would do it as fine 29 states but i would back tape the top of the quarter and just clear the quarter. how old is the paint that is on it? i may even blend the quarter if it wasn't that old.
    also i use 40 grit, when sanding, like you would use a highway. the trick is knowing what exit to get off of.;)
     
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  19. MAD 034
    Joined: Aug 30, 2011
    Posts: 775

    MAD 034
    Member
    from Washington

    Another vote for a pro shop repair. Metallic paint repair adds a higher level of expertise required.
     
  20. dan31
    Joined: Jul 3, 2011
    Posts: 1,079

    dan31
    Member

    Have a body shop make it go away, it will save you from having to tell the story ...over and over again.
     
  21. There is no reason to paint/clear the roof and both quarters. A competent painter can spot that in keeping the repair area fairly small.
    As said let a pro do it, you will be much happier with the results.
     
  22. 5window
    Joined: Jan 29, 2005
    Posts: 8,241

    5window
    Member

    Thanks for the update. We have a pretty big, good body shop nearby and recently had my wife's car repaired. The estimator I know is out of the office but will be back in a few days. Will give an update then. As a lay person, the small ding in the quarter and the deeper scratch in the tail-piece look fillable with minimal filler. I don't know about the scratches and the painting-we'll see. Money, within reason, is not the object. Fortunately.
     
  23. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,057

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    As for cost.........consider this........unless you can repair it to a 'professional' standard, the depreciation caused by a poor repair will likely exceed the cost of the professional shop repair. In addition to which, you probably will not be happy with less than professional results.

    Ray
     
  24. southcross2631
    Joined: Jan 20, 2013
    Posts: 4,414

    southcross2631
    Member

    Had local paint store mix up one of those spray bomb match paint off the paint code.
    Fixed the scratches in my mothers Jap Crap car. Had it done and Ray Charles dropped by and told me it didn't match.
    Had to use base clear and paint the whole bumper. For free. Was glad when she quit driving at 94 .
    It got to be a regular thing, she would say someone must hit my car. Yah, right Mom.
     
  25. s55mercury66
    Joined: Jul 6, 2009
    Posts: 3,980

    s55mercury66
    Member
    from SW Wyoming

    You might as well go ahead and repair the quarter extension, it is small and will give you a chance to see if you want to tackle the quarter panel itself. After you repair the extension, you don't feel like attempting the quarter panel repair, take it to your favorite body shop and let them do it. You may decide you like doing your own work, and it is very satisfying to do so. Give it a try, you can do it.
     
    tb33anda3rd likes this.
  26. PotmetalB
    Joined: Aug 13, 2017
    Posts: 29

    PotmetalB
    Member

    Hello all. My name's James and I'm new here. Potmetal is one of my favorite subjects. Many say it can't be repaired not to mention modified. With respect to the gettlemens comment about filling the low areas, that will get ya by, but your potincially causing another problem: The filled edge will be prone to chipping. This may sound wild, cut the potmetal, adjust and weld it back together.
    Lol, I know what you're thinking. I'm crazy, right? But I can tell you, Potmetal can easily manipulated and or modified. I do it all the time. For instance, I just repaired a '37 Mercury grille (damned things are heavy!) that was broken into 6 or 7 pieces. I spent roughly 15 hrs getting it back together, it came out like it was never broken. Long story short, in the right hands, pot metal can be worked as easy as aluminum.
     
  27. john worden
    Joined: Nov 14, 2007
    Posts: 1,703

    john worden
    Member
    from iowa

    I've soldered pot metal and have had several parts straightened and soldered in the past.
    Not sure cutting and solder is the fix on this job.
    Show us some of your work.
     

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