Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical Need help on flooding 4 barrel Holley

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by titpygmy, Oct 18, 2015.

  1. titpygmy
    Joined: Jun 13, 2015
    Posts: 20

    titpygmy
    Member

    Hi. I need your help again. 327 in a 54 chevy pickup running a 4160 I think 4 barrel. Stamped with B1850-1. Started running rough at tickover as I came home today and I see that the two rear barrels, I take it these are the secondary's are flooded. Where do I start? Once she had cooled down, I did start her up and check the float height. Both seemed good. Just a little leakage if I rocked the truck a bit. She ran absolutely fine then but I took her for a spin and I live down an unmade rough road so I have to trickle down for about half a mile. She started to yet again run very lumpy and slow on tick over. I whipped off the air filter and there was a lot of fuel sitting in the two rears again. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. 55Brodie
    Joined: Dec 15, 2008
    Posts: 746

    55Brodie
    Member

    Blown power valve maybe. Have you had a backfire recently?
     
    loudbang likes this.
  3. titpygmy
    Joined: Jun 13, 2015
    Posts: 20

    titpygmy
    Member

    I did have one when my distributor came loose that blew the plug off the back of the carb but I have done about a thousand miles since then with no problem.
     
  4. Time for a rebuild. HRP
     
    Register now to get rid of these ads!

  5. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 2,157

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    More than likely crap in the sec. needle & seat.....take it out & clean it ...that doesn't work, replace it [you can get a complete rebuild kit w/everything for about $30 on the bay..quick fuel makes a very inclusive kit]
    dave
     
  6. mikhett
    Joined: Jan 22, 2005
    Posts: 1,403

    mikhett
    Member
    from jackson nj

    Yes Needle and seat might have a piece of dirt lodged there.Holleys are known for that yet its the only carb I ever use.
     
  7. And I'm one of those guys that have had nothing but problems with them. HRP
     
  8. moefuzz
    Joined: Jul 16, 2005
    Posts: 4,950

    moefuzz
    Member

    I'm with others in stating needle and seat.

    I had an ongoing issue with secondaries flooding and just removing and cleaning made no difference.

    I went thru 3 sets of needle/seats and each one off them lasted maybe 1000 miles.

    My problem was the pulsating from the electric fuel pump at 7 lbs pressure kept taking it's toll on the o rings of the needle/seat.

    A fuel pressure regulator fixed that problem for good but eventually I got tired of the holley's on going deficiencies (it was a swap meet/used carb when I got it) and I ended up buying a new 1850.

    These carbs are notorious for wear at the throttle shafts and depending on how far you have your foot into it,
    They will either leak fuel (at shaft) or draw air -thus throwing off your air/fuel ratios as well as making them a bitch to tune (impossible).

    After putting all that time and money into a used carb I could have almost bought a new one.



    .
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2015
  9. 2racer
    Joined: Sep 1, 2011
    Posts: 960

    2racer
    Member

    replace the gaskets behind the metering plate and metering block, they shrink over time and then your heap will run like crap, use holley gaskets only
     
  10. landseaandair
    Joined: Feb 23, 2009
    Posts: 4,386

    landseaandair
    Member
    from phoenix

    Probably not power valve related, if blown, most fuel would go down vacuum passage trough base plate. One thing not usually considered is O rings on the needles and seats. Can seep just enough to let fuel drip out boosters without significant rise in fuel level.
     
  11. steinauge
    Joined: Feb 28, 2014
    Posts: 1,507

    steinauge
    Member
    from 1960

    And,like 2old2fast said,a rebuild kit will take care of most problems.Do check your fuel pressure,I never liked to run over 5 lbs on a carbureted engine.
     
  12. titpygmy
    Joined: Jun 13, 2015
    Posts: 20

    titpygmy
    Member

    Thanks all for the advice. Gives me an idea where to go from here. There seems to a general tone of dislike for the Holley carbs in general. If I wanted to replace the carb altogether, what should I be looking for?
     
  13. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 2,157

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    I've had no more trouble w/ holley than any other brand carb , haters gonna hate...I like mine just fine ..
    dave
     
    loudbang likes this.
  14. Any carb you put on, you will have to tune it...get a kit and rebuild it, check you fuel pressure, no more that 5 PSI, replace you filter.
     
    Rex_A_Lott likes this.
  15. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,547

    stimpy

    also check the float to make sure its not leaking ( white ones ) or melting ( black foam ones) as it will deteriorate over time unless its a brass one and those take longer than the plastic ones . and they will slowly raise the fuel levels over time
    . on the rear needles and seats what kills them is people do not blow the carbon out on there motors enough and the gas goes stale and the needle -seat builds a layer of crud on it . specially if its a vac secondary , the mechanicals do not have as much of problems the gas keeps it fresh . ( one reason why I like the q jet as the fuel bowl is basically one chamber ( yes I know the cells for the secondary wells ) but only one needle and seat .
     
  16. Put a pressure regulator on it!!!! Holleys only will survive with 5.5 PSI or less. any more and it will overpower the needle and seat and flood the carb.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2020 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.