<!-- / icon and title --><!-- message --> I've got a 47 Merc. W/a stock 59A motor. Car was sitting for a good 2+ years before I drug it home. Got it running and now have a problem getting it restartred after it has run for a few minutes. Act's like the timing is too far advanced (ie. slow cranks). Starter, generator, carb, all rebuilt... I put a new condensor on it (The only one I had was from a SBC) to get it to start. Could this be the problem (because it's not for 6V)?? Looking for a little help or where to go next.... Spoons
Check for all the basics, spark gas etc. If you can't find out what it is, find out what it is not. I have a 51 flathead if it is original your distributor is in the front. I would use twelve volts to start it. Directly wire it with out using the cars wring system (hot wire it). If it is original it was set up for 6 volts positive ground so diconnect the current wiring system from the proccess. Spark may not be hot enough, you don't need a condenser to start it switch to twelve volts ot take it off. If you run without it it only shorten the life of the points, but this is not longterm Neg battery to ground the engine and positive to the coil, and the starter. Use a started button in place of the relay or have a way to engage it during when you are turning it over. If spark is weeak pull out the coils wire while it is spinning over and creat about a one inch gap, that will force the coil to put out maximum voltage. Not to far or you could get a jolt! If it still will not start, check compression, thety had fiver gears, if it has jumped you will not have any compression. When the time gear breaks it spins faster not slower since there is no compression. Your distrutor should not turn if the gear is missing a big chunk! Hope this helps.
If the motor sits for a few days, then I try to start it, It starts fine. Voltage regulator is working...Could it be that I need to have the Dizzy set-up and/or check to see if the coil is not up to snuff...
If coil is original, be very suspicious of it. Typical deathbed behavior is good start, runs fine for a few minutes, then rapidly dies and won't restart until coils is totally cooled down.
Thanks Bruce.....I was hoping you would chime in and give me some additional direction Is there a test for checking the coil??
Fire it up, runnit til it's unhappy; test coil by actuating with a wire to ground, nomentary contact, and watch spark. Typically as heat brings then down they produce a thin, yellow spark rather than a fat blue one... What voltage are you running, 6 or 12? There's a resistor in stock circuit...test with that bypassed to see if that perks up a weak coils... Drop out distrib, just two bolts and slide out from behind cap, see if points corroded or if point spring broke in storage...just give the points a couple swipes with a point file. They frequently can't make good contact due to light corrosion after stting, easy to clean up without disassembly.
Stock 6v system(Pos. Ground) It will sit and idle all day and never get unhappy. When you shut off key, wait a moment, then try to restart, it turns over like a car with too much timing. It has gas when you hit the accelerator pedal, float level is correct (checked it yesterday).... Which post do you use to touch to ground?? Where is the resistor in stock circuit?
Try cranking with coil disconnected...any change?? resistor on a '47 can either be on top of coil (late)or right above wiring hole in firewall on the inside (early) Do test above...need to know if crossfire or something is causing ignition to slow cranking or if trouble is towards the starter.
Ok Bruce....I'll check all those things you told me when I get home from work today...I'll update you as to my progress Thank You, Kurt
Changed coil and condensor..not much has changed. It looks like the resistor is not hooked up as I see an eyelet, but wire snipped off (it's on firewall inside car with a group of other wires, but it is separate). If you shut off ign. switch, wait a second, then try to restart, it fires.. If you wait a little longer, 30 sec. or more, then it acts like timing too high.. won't start As I try to crank motor over and over again, Neg. battery cable gets"warm" Going to replace Neg. side cables and ends today.. I think I'm getting close. Motor seems a little happier. Restarts sometimes and sometimes not... Checked a few other things as well Has 6.16 Volts as it idles @ battery Has 6.28 Volts @ generator @ idle Has 20 inches of vacume @ idle Drops to 5 Volts as we crank it to restart.. Should be enough to restart?? Haven't checked dizzy yet.... Kurt
I'd say cable is right track too...also look into ground. Hook a ground strap from starter bolt at front to where regular ground strap bolts to firewall. A happy starter makes a happy owner...
It could be flooding a bit when it stops. That'll cause hard starting until the gas evaporates. Flatties are famous for not turning over fast when they're hot.
Another place to look for resistance in starter circuit is the solenoid. After a slow-cranking session, place your hand on it. If you hear screaming and smell burning bacon while your hand is on there, solenoid is HOT and undoubtedly has high resistance.
Thanks again....I'll go thru all those suggestions,implemet them, and see how it goes... Thank You Spoons
I think you have slow cranking from something to do with starter, and distributor is blameless. Just disconnect coil and see if cranking changes to be sure...if still slow, obviously ignition isn't fighting it. Another advance factor, though...if left point spring fails, timing moves...
Looks like it was the battery cables..I made all new ones Fri. Night out of 2 AWG. cable and the car starts Every time, warm or cold. I would have never thought that would be it!!! Now....Do you need the resistor wire in the stock circuit or will the points fail that much quicker or at all?/ Spoons
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