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Technical Need help, chopped shoebox windows,Omaha area

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by bcaughlin, Mar 18, 2015.

  1. bcaughlin
    Joined: Feb 25, 2013
    Posts: 12

    bcaughlin
    Member
    from Omaha, NE

    I have a traditional 51 Ford chopped Tudor. Flathead, drum brakes, steel wheels...Anyway I have been working on it for a couple years now and I am at the stage I need to put the windows back in it. I want manual mechanisms and channels. Is there anyone in the Omaha area image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg or whitin reason that might be willing to help me with this or is available for hire to get the windows in and working reasonably?
     
    59IMPALER and layedout49 like this.
  2. Mercman4life
    Joined: Jan 3, 2010
    Posts: 205

    Mercman4life
    Member

    Wow! That really looks nice . Great work.
     
  3. 56premiere
    Joined: Mar 8, 2011
    Posts: 1,445

    56premiere
    Member
    from oregon

    Nice . And a bump up
     
  4. DoctorPaul
    Joined: Oct 31, 2010
    Posts: 11

    DoctorPaul
    Member
    from tulsa

    Your first challenge is to find window regulators. The Ford Barn would be a good place to start and Mac's has a lot of parts for those regulators. Once you have the regulators, cranks, garnish moldings, stainless window trim, etc. you can make cardboard window templates for the glass and have it cut. When we did my 3.5" chop on my '51, it was pretty much stock and all was there. You'll need to find a welder that can weld stainless steel for the interior trim....it is pretty thin. Good luck....it will be worth the efforts.
     

  5. have you talked to the turds? dick or solobolo might have a good suggestion
     
  6. DoctorPaul
    Joined: Oct 31, 2010
    Posts: 11

    DoctorPaul
    Member
    from tulsa

    The Early Ford Store in California has the window regulators for your car IN STOCK. $225.00 for the pair, according to their website. All I did was a simple search for 1951 Ford Window regulators.....looks like a good source for your Tudor parts.
     
  7. rob lee
    Joined: Jul 30, 2006
    Posts: 1,327

    rob lee
    Member
    from omaha,ne

    Looks good man,nice to see it getting done!Last time I needed glass for a chop I used galvin glass in bellevue. They know old cars. Good luck,Rob
     
    Frankie47 likes this.
  8. vwdave30
    Joined: Nov 21, 2009
    Posts: 457

    vwdave30
    Member

    You should try shoebox central for your window regulators they have used parts
     
    pecker head likes this.
  9. xderelict
    Joined: Jul 30, 2006
    Posts: 2,477

    xderelict
    Member Emeritus

    What Rob said. I like the paint. Nice job on the finish.
     
  10. Hey, my kid had some extra regulators from aome parts cars. I think they were all '50 fords. Don't know if he has any quarter window regulators as his car is a coupe but he did have extra door glass regulators.
    Another vote for Galvin glass. I use them always.
    I live in Bellevue, my kid lives in Papilllion.
     
  11. DERPR30
    Joined: Jun 3, 2010
    Posts: 807

    DERPR30
    Member
    from HARVEY LA

  12. john worden
    Joined: Nov 14, 2007
    Posts: 1,696

    john worden
    Member
    from iowa

    I hate to throw a wrench in the works and I hope I'm wrong but it appears in the photos that the side windows tilt inward more than stock (more tumblehome than stock) If so, will there be room in the doors and quarters for regulators to fit and pull the glass all the way down? Also looks like the quarter glass will need to move up and down at an angle that matches the B piller.
     
  13. Nice looking car. Shoebox Central will have window regulators, Restoration Specialties has all the window channels and fuzzies and they are happy to help figure out custom/non-stock stuff, and Chris Blattie in the HAMB-O-Dex does a great job cutting glass. He'll also walk you through making the templates.

    I think the angle of the photo and the slanted B pillar combine to make it look like there's an inward tilt in the side windows. Lots of guys have slanted B-pillars and functional rear windows. Mine are straight, but I notched the trailing edge of the glass so I could get the rear windows down further and still clear the wheel wells. It's all doable.
     
  14. sololobo
    Joined: Aug 23, 2006
    Posts: 8,176

    sololobo
    Member

    wow, looks good in black paint, nice all around, flat stock glass should be fairly easy. Lots of good suggestions, Galvin Glass is a great outfit, as Rob said, they know old cars. good luck!
     
  15. texasred
    Joined: Dec 3, 2008
    Posts: 1,094

    texasred
    Member
    from Houston

    Gotta love a slanted post box chop
     
  16. bcaughlin
    Joined: Feb 25, 2013
    Posts: 12

    bcaughlin
    Member
    from Omaha, NE

    Thank you all for your information. I will be taking it to Galvin Glass hopefully yet today. the Stainless that goes around the windows has been a huge challenge, but I think they are as good as they are going to get. to Galvin I go.

    Thanks again! especially you that have helped me hands on with this car. Maybe someday it will be done and you can see it around town.
     
  17. bcaughlin
    Joined: Feb 25, 2013
    Posts: 12

    bcaughlin
    Member
    from Omaha, NE

     
  18. bcaughlin
    Joined: Feb 25, 2013
    Posts: 12

    bcaughlin
    Member
    from Omaha, NE

    I took the car to Galvin glass. They were able to get the windshield in the chrome on… The rear window in. We are still having trouble with the window regulators in the doors. They did get glass in it and they sort of role up-and-down. Just not right.

    Has anyone used a different regulator or made a specific modification to the standard manual regulators in the ford shoebox? The responder above is correct. The top of the door does slant inward making it a challenge for the window to run up and down. It can't go up and down straight anymore. We tried shimming the bottom of the regulators out towards the outside of the car. Allowing the glass to go up and down at an angle towards the outer door skin. It's just not working well. Any suggestions for a different smaller cleaner regulator or modification would be GREATLY appreciated!
     

    Attached Files:

  19. bcaughlin
    Joined: Feb 25, 2013
    Posts: 12

    bcaughlin
    Member
    from Omaha, NE

    I'm willing to haul it wherever I have a truck and trailer if someone is willing to try and help me.
    Galvin is willing to try again but he is not feeling great about custom fabricating window regulators.
     
  20. john worden
    Joined: Nov 14, 2007
    Posts: 1,696

    john worden
    Member
    from iowa

    To be clear, with the regulator not attached to the glass, will the glass travel down in a straight line into the door as far as you want it to?
     
  21. Having delt with that same issue a few times I have accepted installing power windows. It just makes things work out. Notice how everything is mounted to the interior side of he door. I hate switch Buttons on early style builds so I go with Hot tronix controls using the stock window handle. Also the Juliano door check strap so nothing is seen in the door jamb when the door is open. It just lets ya hide everything and move on.
    The Wizzard Screwed by a Screw 003.jpg ashley5.jpg
     
  22. bcaughlin
    Joined: Feb 25, 2013
    Posts: 12

    bcaughlin
    Member
    from Omaha, NE

    Could I call you and talk through what I am dealing with please? I am not sure how to answer the questions about traveling straight down... the glass will travel up and down all the way no ton the regulator, but is is at an angle bottom towards the outer door skin and top towards the inside of car... do to the door tops angle. My number is 402-676-5832 Barry if you prefer. do you have any time at your shop to take on another car like this?
     
  23. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 16,743

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Since the top of the door tilts in more than factory, did you also modify the bottom of the glass run to tilt out more? You need to modify those channels so they kick out more at the bottom of the door.

    Take a foot and a half long straight stick and place it in the empty glass run's channel (up and down). It should fit nicely, no bend at the door's beltline. Your slanted pillars compound the problem, as there's no truly straight spot to measure from.

    Truth be told, all this stuff should have been thought about before you did any finish bodywork. Guys get in a hurry and don't think about how the details fit together. I hope you don't ding the doorskin from the inside, or have to cut and modify your glass runs (weld marks in your door jamb).

    Now, as John said above, getting the window regulators to kick out more at the bottom to reach the tilted glass is the next problem. May take bending or cutting/welding of the inner panel to let the regulator reach farther to the inside of the door.
     
  24. bcaughlin
    Joined: Feb 25, 2013
    Posts: 12

    bcaughlin
    Member
    from Omaha, NE

    Thank you for all the help. I ended up taking it back to Galvin Glass with all the information I learned and they/ we think that we can move the bracket on the lower channels closer to the door skin and gain some positive angle. We are also going to try and add to the front of the regulator channel that the window sits in to try and distribute some of the weight better. I believe the extra weight up front from eliminating the wing windows is a factor as well... Stay tuned and thank you again!
     
  25. Sweet & Low
    Joined: Feb 13, 2014
    Posts: 279

    Sweet & Low
    Member

    When I chopped by shoebox Victoria, I had to move the regulator and bracing & mechanisums to the exterior of the door so the windows would move up and down smoothly with no obstructions, had to do the same process for the rear side windows, stop and take a look at it and it will make more sense. I would pull the glass out of the regulators to make it easier to make these adjustments, I used wooden door skins the same size as the windows, it will make it much easier to work with.
     
  26. Finnrodder
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,964

    Finnrodder
    Member
    from Finland

    Nice looking shoebox you have,bcaughlin.
    Never thought this could be an issue,but i know the window regulators will need some work.
    I have only a 4" chop,so the pilars are not leaned so much to inward than they are on heavier chops.
    Just wondering,did you guys had to modify the window crank shafts too,if the regulators are in different angle than originally?
     
  27. bcaughlin
    Joined: Feb 25, 2013
    Posts: 12

    bcaughlin
    Member
    from Omaha, NE

    No. we just made new bracket on the bottom of the door to move out the window channels and put shims on the bottom bolts of the regulator and it works pretty good now.
     
    john worden likes this.
  28. Frankie47
    Joined: Dec 20, 2008
    Posts: 1,863

    Frankie47
    Member
    from omaha ne.

    GALVIN GLASS.......BEST IN OMAHA HANDS DOWN.
     
  29. stanlow69
    Joined: Feb 21, 2010
    Posts: 5,306

    stanlow69
    Member
    from red oak

    I was in there shop a couple weeks ago buying window fuzzies for a customers 47 Ford. The owner must of liked your car, He showed a pic of it to me.
     
  30. My regulators stayed right where they were. With the glass in the half-down position, I bent the scissor arms out to meet the track. then, about 3 or so inches above the track, I bent the arms back inward so the angle of the rollers matched the angle of the verticle channels. You'll need to tweek the bends so that the rollers match the angle, and and also rest there without pulling the track in or out(when parked in the in the halfway position). When it's all the way up,the arms will be pushed slightly in. When it's down, the arms will be pulled slightly out. By splitting the difference at the halfway point, it won't be completely tight up or down. There should be enough slop in the scissor pivot, and in the rollers, that it shouldn't bind up. I hope I made some sense, that's how it was for my Chevy. I hope the Fords are similar.
     

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