Need HELP: Bump Steer on lowered 1962 F100

I had figured out a steering update for my 61 (flipped front axle) but sold it before I could do the work. Use a 93 - 96 F150 box, mount it in front of the axle. Center the pitman arm tie rod end the same distance from the axle as the 93 is. Keep the angle of the box the same as in the 93. Swap the steering arms from side to side (so they point forward). The cross link (to the passenger side) and the link from the cross link to the drivers side both need to be shortened 2 1/2", this can be done with the tie rod ends. The only area I didn't have a chance to check out was the taper and thread (difference or not) between the 93 and 61 tie rod ends. The frames are within 1/4" in width so the geometry between box location/frame/steering arms will be the same. A lot of work but couldn't be any more then the toy box. Thoughts?

 

I thought about using that box up front also. Even considered using the spindles and disk brakes. I think it could be made to work.

Another thing to consider is the 2 types of tie rod assemblies:


Twin-I-Beams use the 'Inverted Y' on the left. But solid axles need a solid cross tie like the 'Inverted T' on the right to maintain the correct toe-in. Look at 4x4's like 79-back Broncos.

 

What if your running the stock column shift, that throws the TOYO box out the window.. I have seen another thread on here somewhere, where the guy cut,sectioned, and bent the drag link.. Let me look and see if I can find it.. I need to figure this out as well cause I need to get my new 64 down in front asap...

 

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=398754


here is a link to this guys set-up.. he said he did'nt have any or much bumpsteer, but he also installed the tapered spacer, but I don't see how that will eliminate the problem but just adding more caster. Am I wrong on thinking this?

 

x2 ...

 

WHOOOW thats a big pic sorry

 

The slick 60s web site has a few threads on this. One of them involves heating and twisting the upper steering arm to re-position the axle end of the link to as close to stock as possible. Lots of heat and take your time that arm can be turned into a pretsel!

 

Exactly.
You changed the angle of the drag link it needs to run the same as it originally ran in order to not have bump steer.

 

With the limited suspension travel (non off road use) the stock twin beam set up should work fine. Toe change for the small amount of travel would never be felt in the steering.

 

Its the last year for parallel leaf springs and I-beam suspension not a twin I beam.. I have yet to find a good before and aft pic, or visual discription on the heating and relocating of the drag-link, and steering arm The factory drag link already has a kick in it... I understand the heating and such just not sure on the proper angle. Waht would be the best way to go about this, take an angle finder to it and see aht angle it is now and bend to re-create the same angle once it's lowered?

 

Yes, get the angle as close to stock as it was before you flipped the axle. Heat and twist the steering arm just forward of the drag link mount so the drag link goes in from the center with the nut on the wheel side. Then heat the arm just forward of where it bolts to the spindle and bend it down as far as you can. It won't be exactly the same as before the flip but close. Changing the drag link to it's new mount will give a little more room and make up the distance between center of king pin and center of drag link you loose when bending it down Look at the Slick Sixties site, there are several threads on the subjuct there and pics too.

 

so has anybody done this with success? I really want to do this just don't want to open a can of worms...... Any input, pic's other links to read? Thanks Ryan

 

Yes, go to the slick 60s web site and search axle flip and lowering. There are a couple of threads that address this.

 

It's been awhile since I have posted on this topic but I got some pics together and some part numbers that might help the next guy out..

It seems like the best way to cure this bumpsteer issue is to do the steering arm bend. That requires that you heat up and rotate your current drag link 90 degrees on the steering arm end so the joint of it is facing the wheel so you can achieve maximum drop of the steering arm.

I would think it would be easier to go to your parts store and pick up a tie rod adjusting sleeve and tie rod end with the correct taper and diameter.
This would prevent the fighting with the factory drag link.
Heres a few part numbers that might help

Adjusting sleeve- Moog part # ES2146S , Spicer # 425-1026
Tie rod end- Moog part # ES416R , Spicer # 401-1097 right hand thread
- Moog Part # ES416L , Spicer # 401-1096 left hand thread

I havent done this mod yet so keep that in mind but I work in the parts business and feel comfortable about these parts #'s. I have racked my brain for hours over this, and this seems like the easiest option. also keep in mind that the steering arm will still have to be heated and bent these parts will just replace the drag link and prevent modifying it. I will be doing this myself within the next week so i will post back up with some results.

Here are some pics of my lowering job and the frame notch. I figured these might help some people as well. I was suprised at the lack of pictures floating around the web when I lowered my ford....So hope my pics and info will help someone out.

 

Sweet! Notch and motor mounts look really nice and clean.
Thanks for posting pics and the part numbers.

 

Did you ever get this fixed, if so what did you end up doing and do you have any pictures?