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Need HELP: Bump Steer on lowered 1962 F100

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Martin_F, May 3, 2010.

  1. First off, I did a search but it seems that everybody claims not to have it...

    So I helped a friend lowering his 1962 Ford F100. He did spring under axle in the front and the back.
    Now it's drivable again and it's got bump steer.
    We're looking for some advice how to fix it; I am sure somebody on here has already done this.
    It's your time to help a fellow HAMBer out!

    Any help will be appreciated.

    And to get this rolling, here's a pic:
    [​IMG]
     
  2. budd
    Joined: Oct 31, 2006
    Posts: 3,478

    budd
    Member

    well some pics would help, i think your going to have to move your steering box up so your drag link is returned to its relationship to the axle, if you follow, i did the same thing to a 45 gmc to lower it, it can get pretty weird when you ad body roll into the equation, if before the drop the two ends for the drag link formed a horizontal line then they must again after the drop.
     
  3. zee your drag link .
     
  4. Pauly Von G
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 4

    Pauly Von G
    Member


  5. skraps528
    Joined: May 3, 2010
    Posts: 25

    skraps528
    Member

    Thanks for the help Martin. I finally took your advise and registered, just got finished posting up an intro.


    The f100 is mine and I kinda got an idea of what is going on with the geometry of the steering and what needs to be corrected, just a little confused on what options I have to fix it.

    What about trying to locate a shorter pitman arm to fit my steering box? or would that just create a larger problem? as far as amount of turn I get with the steering wheel in relation to the amount out at the wheels? Im in the auto parts business so im sure i can locate something. Just not sure that it would be the better solution.
     
  6. skraps528
    Joined: May 3, 2010
    Posts: 25

    skraps528
    Member

    I must've missed a few posts while I was typing. Great info guys Thanks

    I'll post up some better pics tommorow.
     
  7. budd
    Joined: Oct 31, 2006
    Posts: 3,478

    budd
    Member

  8. Thanks for you help guys! we'll figure something out!
    Any other opinions?
     
  9. R Pope
    Joined: Jan 23, 2006
    Posts: 3,309

    R Pope
    Member

    Rack and pinion.
    Drop the steering arm. Probably not possible with an axle flip, dropped axles have enough room to do it.
    Raise the steering box. Or swap it for a power unit that can be mounted so that the drag link is parallel to the ground.
     
  10. skraps528
    Joined: May 3, 2010
    Posts: 25

    skraps528
    Member

    Thanks for all the help guys. The steering box relocation looks like probably the most efficient way of correcting the problem , but not sure I want to get into cutting down the steering shaft. Anyone had any experiences with swapping out a steering box off something different that may work in place of the Ford one with the long steering shaft attached?

    I might give the Z'ing of the drag link a try and see how much of the problem that corrects. It would probably be the easiest and fastest way.

    Any other suggestions?
     
  11. budd
    Joined: Oct 31, 2006
    Posts: 3,478

    budd
    Member

    z'ing the drag link is a waste of time, it does nothing, you can tie it into a knot if you want to and it still will have no effect, you have to change the end points of your drag link to have any effect at all, this point has been made on here 100 times, if you search you can find some really great cad drawings of drag link placement, and why z-ing is never the answer.
     
  12. Gasr57
    Joined: Sep 3, 2007
    Posts: 236

    Gasr57
    Member
    from Ohio

    Looks like you got some good info to work with. Good Luck and BE SAFE I had a friend who wrecked his car when a modified steering component failed. One option they use on race cars in to replace the outer tie rod ends with rod ends,drill out the tapered holes in the spindles for grade 8 bolts and use spacers to get the drag-link and tie rod ends in line,but you don't want to go more than a couple inches this way,and make sure you use quality material/parts. "BE SAFE". JEGS.com also sells a kit to do this.It's listed as a "BUMP STEER ADJUSTABLE TIE ROD SET".
     
  13. Z'ing won't do a damn thing except make the drag link weaker. Doesn't change the geometry.
    Very common to put early Toyota 4X4 power steering boxes in these trucks. i did it in my 61, worked great

    That type of kit is of no use here. The problem is a front to rear drag link, not cross steer tie rod. You can't lower the stock steering arm enough because of the way it wraps around the spindle/king pin area.
     
  14. Gasr57
    Joined: Sep 3, 2007
    Posts: 236

    Gasr57
    Member
    from Ohio

    Don't understand why this wouldn't translate to a push pull set up. No room on the spindle end? What about heating and bending the steering arm for better alignment like they do on early ford dropped axles with stock steering arms. Or would it be possible to switch to bolt on steering arms that bolt on the bottom of the spindle Speedway sells several different versions. Not and expert just throw'in out ideas
     
  15. Dzus
    Joined: Apr 3, 2006
    Posts: 321

    Dzus
    Member

    The drag link goes over the top of the axle. You can only bend the steering arm down so far before it hits the axle. Space is tight. You need to lay under one while it's cranked from lock-to-lock to get an idea.

    Raising the box is the best option. Toyota 4x4 box is the best replacement box.
     
  16. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,590

    117harv
    Member

    Bend the steering arm up and then reattach the drag link from under it. This should bring the draglink back or close to level with the ground. Shortening the pitman arm will help also but that makes the steering harder and quicker.
     
  17. Uhhh...shortening the pitman arm makes the steering EASIER and SLOWER...less lateral movement per degree of shaft rotation.

    The drag link will probably hit the axle if you flip the end to the bottom, not that it would fit back in the tapered hole anyway...

    Use the Toy box and put a bearing in the bottom of the column jacket. I believe EL Polacko knows the part # by heart. Get a weld on u-joint and make an intermediate shaft out of the stock Toyota shaft. Most of that stuff is pretty close to 3/4" dia. already.
     
  18. Kustom7777
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 5,183

    Kustom7777
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    i had the same exact problem with a 62 F-100,,,,
    a pair of tapered shims completely solved the problem for me...
    i think i bought them from Speedway motors..
    BTW,,,,LOVE that truck,,
     
  19. 2NDCHANCE
    Joined: Sep 11, 2007
    Posts: 919

    2NDCHANCE
    Member

    Thanks for the info. I will use it on my next project. Gary
     
  20. Do you have any pics?
     
  21. The Drag Link already attaches from the Bottom Up
     
  22. Tapered shims where? :confused:
     
  23. skraps528
    Joined: May 3, 2010
    Posts: 25

    skraps528
    Member

    Yeah I am confused as to where shims would go to help out????

    Sounds like Im gonna take a look at a toyota box tommorow and see how I can make that work, or just go ahead and relocate the stocker and cut down the shaft.

    The more I drive the truck the less I notice the issue, but i'd rather go ahead and correct it. One day I would like to take the wife and daughter out in it so I wanna be sure of the safety. Plus if I take Martin for a cruise I wouldnt want anything to happen to him before he's able to drive his own rod...that means hurry the hell up and finish Martin!!
     
  24. Dzus
    Joined: Apr 3, 2006
    Posts: 321

    Dzus
    Member

    Ah, I see. Keeps the drag link perpendicular to the king pin axis. Any negative side affects from the extra positive caster?
     
  25. I'm thinking maybe the extra caster WAS the solution... Even if the kingpin and drag link are square, the drag link is still operating in a conflicting arc with the leaf spring. The caster may have had a damping effect on bump oscillations...
     
  26. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,590

    117harv
    Member

    I have a 49 ford and the draglink mounts on top of the steering arm, i thought they were all the same.

    I meant to say that the shorter pitman arm makes it easier to steer not harder...don't drink and HAMB!
     
  27. choptopdoc
    Joined: Nov 19, 2008
    Posts: 135

    choptopdoc
    Member
    from tulsa

    So, whats the outcome? Did shims fix it? If so, what degree shims did you use? I just started my front axle flip today on my new 64 "low buck project".
     
  28. choptopdoc
    Joined: Nov 19, 2008
    Posts: 135

    choptopdoc
    Member
    from tulsa

    Well, I just finnished my drop, and steers like shit! Im now looking for a toyota box. Maybe doing the box swap will help me with the issue of the steering wheel being too close to the seat. Im a pretty big dude and never had that problem with a 65 or 6.
     
  29. rumblefish
    Joined: Sep 2, 2006
    Posts: 77

    rumblefish
    Member
    from NE Ohio

    Has any one gone in the other direction? I'm building a Gasser out of my '62 f100 Unibody and dealing with the same problem. 3" blocks with stock straight axle.

    Thanks for your time,
    Brian
     
  30. Your steering arm and your pitman arm need to be level. I did a dropped axle on my 48 suburban and boy was that first ride fun. Didn't know which way it was going to go every time I hit a bump in the road. As soon as I got them level the problem was gone.
     

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