Register now to get rid of these ads!

Need help bad!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by gallogiro, Sep 5, 2013.

  1. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

    God i hope someone can help me. how do I remove completely seized on brake drums off my 48 chevy fleetmaster? its a car not truck, don't know if that matters, but I banged the hell out of them, took pry bars to it, wedged the nail pulling end of a hammer in them, and nothing :mad:

    anyone have any advice on how I can get them off? the back ones came off with little effort, banged them a few times with a hammer and slowly inched them out. and whats funny is the back ones were seized and wouldn't turn, the front ones turn but the drum wont come out. any advice is highly appreciated, im completely stuck. thanks guys
     
  2. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    The front drums are semi-permanently attached to the hubs. Pull the little cover in the center of the hub ,remove cotter pin ,undo nut and pull both hub and drum off spindle.
     
  3. After doing what JohnEvans suggests, prior to pulling and yanking on the drums with a tool, be sure you adjust the shoes ALL OF THE WAY IN just in case they have ridges and are hanging up. Another good tip is to turn the drums in the usual forward running motion as you pull on them. The last tip I will give you is to leave the wheel/tire assembly on the drum for more leverage. I used to be a brake mechanic and those tips usually worked for me.
     
  4. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

    johnevans is right, they are semi permanently attatched I just now found out on my thread. turns out theyre riveted and that's why it wouldn't budge not even a millimeter. I saw those nubs but thought they were part of the drum. I was worried because there was no way I could adjust the shoes in or out, the cylinder is dry and seized I have to pop them out and punch them with a punch and hammer to knock them loose. but the rest of the info 31 dodger gave will help me after I grind off the rivets cause its still a process to get them off but atleast now they wont be semi permanently attatched anymore. thanks guys for giving me this info, this and the rivet info really saved me im glad you guys were able to help =)

    so now if anyone asks the same question on a pre 50s car im guessing, ask if they grinded the rivets off

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    we learn something new every day, thanks a lot guys
     

  5. And quit using a framing hammer on them, that is for building houses!!
     
  6. dadseh
    Joined: May 13, 2001
    Posts: 526

    dadseh
    Member

    Yeah! Its a BFH or nothing in here!
     
  7. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

    so you guys spotted that =b I used it because it was the hammer with the longest handle and trust me I got desperate! realized after it started chewing up the drum it was time for me to give up till I found another way or the answer.
     
  8. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    Don't grind the F&*$** rivets off !! The drum will come off just as easy with it still attached to the hub. Besides a whole lot easier/quicker just to pull the dust cap and nut/washer. Also doing that way will let you service the wheel bearings which probably could use it !
     
  9. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 29,826

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Do what John said in post #8 and they should come right off. As he mentioned, the bearings should be serviced (packed) at this time anyhow.
     
  10. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,800

    flatford39
    Member

    Read John's answer again. He never told you to grind the rivets off. Just take off the dust cap, remove the cotter pin and unscrew the nut holding it on. It will come right off.
     
  11. Canus
    Joined: Apr 16, 2011
    Posts: 102

    Canus
    Member

    Damn!!! Don't know whether to laugh or cry.
     
  12. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

    so what you guys are saying is to torch the rivets? just joking, im going to take the hub off from the spindle then work it from there. popping the rivets will be my last resort. but removing the hub yes I will be able to change out the bearings, but will I be able to remove the cylinder so I can rebuild it? or are the shoes just accessible?
     
  13. You will be able to access all brake parts with the drum removed.
     
  14. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

    my computer took a shit on me this weekend, till now I got it back up and running again fine. have been working on the car though. ok I figured out the front brakes, you guys telling me it was one unit and comes off from taking the cotter pin and castle nut were right. and actually made it super easy to remove, I wish the back drums were the same. once I took the nut off, it almost fell out on its own and once it was out I was able to swap out he shoes and cylinder just fine. ill post pics when Im done with the brakes the brake shoe return springs were broken and I cant finish the job till they come in the mail. but thanks a lot guys, advise is highly appreciated and is of great value. you guys were right and no you don't touch the rivets
     
  15. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

    it actually looks like if you bust the rivets out, you might be damaging the drum/bearing housing. thank god I didn't, Ill post pics this weekend so you guys can see what I mean. again thanks a lot guys, were of very much help I really appreciate it especially you johnevans you do know cars thank you =)

    one last question, pack the bearings with black grease or red grease? right now has that very old and smelly black grease that's very fluid like and gets everywhere and even stains your skin. is the red grease better than the black?
     
  16. Commish
    Joined: Jan 9, 2010
    Posts: 379

    Commish
    Member
    from NW Ok

    Doesn't matter what color the grease is as long as it says wheel bearing grease on the can.
     
  17. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,547

    stimpy

    a grease labeled NLGI-2 will work perfect for what your doing . the dyes are something manufactuers put in there to identify there product and make it look different .

    I was going to be a smart ass and say you want the wood grained grease ... :D
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2013
  18. ol fueler
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 935

    ol fueler
    Member

    Man!! You guys have a lot more patience with a complete un-mechanical inclined guy than I ever could have -------- really hard to believe anyone could be so inept at getting a brake drum off. I really would not want to drive or ride in that Chevy after he fixes? the brakes.
     
  19. 1955IHC
    Joined: Aug 20, 2013
    Posts: 636

    1955IHC
    Member

    Please buy yourself a quality repair. Not that we don't mind helping. Hell we all hard to start somewhere even the guys who claim to have been born with a wrench in their hand. Packing bearings and preloading them is a very easy process. But if done incorrectly it could cause catastrophic failure and serious injury. Just looking out for ya.:)

    Sent via Western Union Express.
     
  20. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,547

    stimpy

    it might be easy for you since you worked with these systems in your day , but let me see how you would fair with the brakes on a planetary reduction axle used on a hendrickson truck . or a electric brake retarder set up with no manual ... its easy for me can I call you inept because you don't know how to remove the drum ???

    he asked and got mixed up on the removal procedure . once it was clarified he did it right .
     
  21. 1955IHC
    Joined: Aug 20, 2013
    Posts: 636

    1955IHC
    Member

    Stimpy to whom is that directed?

    Sent via Western Union Express.
     
  22. 1955IHC
    Joined: Aug 20, 2013
    Posts: 636

    1955IHC
    Member

  23. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,547

    stimpy

    not you ..
     
  24. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

    im actually pretty mechanically inclined, I turn full project and junkyard level cars into running driving cars and all on my own with no help, check here

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=808205

    and this one shows more of my skill with a wrench

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=809214

    every single nut and bolt was replaced, even took the body off the frame to replace the body mounts. that 59 impala I redid the whole brakes even swapped out to discs and on my own. I got it to go 120mph before I let off the gas because honestly the speed was scaring me. im sure it was because of the power booster and disc brakes, but stopped on a dime like a new car without swerving

    and I was stuck with removing the drum because I never worked on a car like this before, never seen a drum and hub as a single unit so its not like I didn't know what tool to use or was trying to replace with a Honda rotor. like stimpy said, if something is new to you doesn't make you completely inept, especially having knowledge with so much more. I also don't know how to rebuild a transmission but does that mean I cant build and ill never finish one?

    and wow stimpy, I don't know what any of that stuff is. thats some high tech stuff, sounds like something out of NASA but now I know how the girl at autozone feels when I tell her what parts I need for my 48 and she just zones out and stares at me like im from the moon. but to know all that you have some real skill. my friend is a diesel mechanic and he uses stuff off big rigs and parts/procedures on his regular cars that makes them run better. hes the one that told me to use rotella t oil to break in the motor for the first time.

    and 1955, thanks for looking out. when you say catastrophic failure do you mean oil spilling into the drum and the car not stopping? or is there something else that could go wrong? I can find new bearings, but don't see anywhere that sells hub/bearing gaskets or seals for my year/make.

    ive had my run in with drum brakes failing. my 65 is still front drum brakes, when I first got it I decided to take it out when it was pouring rain. water got into the drum and I was coming to a red light and the brake pedal got hard but he car didn't even slow down, even after pumping the brake. I slammed my foot on it and just braced for impact with the car infront of me. god was looking out for me that day, last second it finally locked and I slid to a stop about 2 feet from the car infront of me. not fun trust me thats why im switching to front disc when I start back on the 65
     
  25. 1955IHC
    Joined: Aug 20, 2013
    Posts: 636

    1955IHC
    Member

    Way to get him! :D Lots of things could go wrong bearings can seize grease on drums wheel and hub fall off. The seals are absolutely essential I would with out doubt replace. If your having trouble finding them I would bring them to a Napa store they should be able to help.

    Sent via Western Union Express.
     
  26. stimpy
    Joined: Apr 16, 2006
    Posts: 3,547

    stimpy

    gallogrio , that stuff was basically o/t heavy equipment stuff I worked with , and it took alot of training to work on it , but the point I as making was I been following your 48 thread and see what you are capable of . and some people assume everyone has worked on this type of car you asked a question and mistook what was said . its not like the guy who wouldn't listen and got his butt banned .

    LIke IHC I would pull both sides and replace an repack the bearings and seals or if you can afford it find a tapered bearing set up to replace the expensive ball bearing units . which I am sure someone here can reccommend to you on the best ones for the dollar .

    for seals try rock auto , or use them as a part number look up to cross over . and your buddy that does the diesel work should be able to get them thru his bearing/seal supplier , if not try motion industries as they are nothing but bearings and seals ( they have a location in fontana ) .
     
  27. Glad to hear you got that drum sorted. If you prize out the old seal, measure the inside diameter of the hub, and measure the outer diameter of the rear bearing cup ( the one that usually stays on the spindle after you remove the hub), take these to a bearing place, they will find you a suitable replacement. I have just finished doing my front brakes, and they originally were SOAKED THROUGH with grease because someone had put too much grease in the bearings, and the seal was crap. If your drums are OK, good luck to you, but I had to replace mine and grind the rivets off, then take them to a brake shop where they heated them and pressed out the hub. I had to do this as these are thin on the ground in these parts!
     
  28. NashRodMan
    Joined: Jul 8, 2004
    Posts: 1,702

    NashRodMan
    Member

    Gallogiro,

    Glad you are making progress on the brakes. One thing I'd like to mention, I see you are working on the car while its on a hydraulic jack....I HOPE you have some blocks under the frame or the wheels you took off put under it for safety sake. The only thing stopping the jack, and car, from coming down is an o-ring! Be safe!

    NRM
     
  29. gallogiro
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 911

    gallogiro
    Member

    thanks 1955, I forgot about napa they have what autozone doesn't have. and the grease making the drum and wheel fall off happened to me in my 65. it fell off, bent my spindle, and made the ball joints break. the spindle warped from the heat too. and it finally broke off making a -5mph turn into a parking spot at target. im more worried about the grease greasing the shoes and drum without me knowing so ill look into the seals thanks
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.