Can someone please post a pic of where the lower (curved) part of the windshield is supposed to land? I need to chop mine and I do NOT want to do it twice!
ron, tilting the w/s posts back changes the arch between the w/s frame and dashrail… I would shorten the w/s frame so a thin section of it hits the dashrail leaving the rubber gasket running down against the cowl's upper cross brace, trim the gasket for looks... go ron go.
I tried to mount '30 A lower stantions on a '30 closed car cowl... A w/s frame was not wide enough... in my stash I found a non ford w/s that was 1" wider than the '30 A closed car … if the '28-'29 roadsters were a little narrower than the '30 closed car maybe try a closed car A w/s frame, [let it set flat against the roadster's upper stantions like on a closed car's A pillars]…
On my 1931 roadster the rubber lip fits against the dash rail. I used some Adel clamps to keep the windshield from coming back into my face.
Here is the stock gap in my old '29 phaeton. The gap is taken up by the windshield gaskets on the side and bottom that slide into the groove in the windshield frame to seal it against the stanchions and the cowl. The second photo shows it with the gasket installed. Not the best photo but its all I have as I sold the Phaeton after TROG '17 but you should get the idea.
ron, IMO... don't let the rubber support your w/s... because you are out of stock with your w/s post anyway, how it fits is up to you... the stock rubber worked great at 35 mph... at 65 mph it could rotate in pinching your fingers... . because your posts don't rotate you can extend the w/s frame forward/downward … maybe use some compound curved steel scraps and make a panel that runs left to right, slides under your dashrail and out against the lower w/s frame... like a valance panel.... my $0.02. go ron go !
I'm working on a '29 Roadster now and am going to chop the windshield 2 inches but have the bottom 1/4" of the frame hit the top of the cross brace but just for appearance. In reality I never had a problem relying on the gasket keeping it from swinging in, the sides are really tight and the gasket is really stiff and if you use the stock dash panel it won't make it past that anyway.
I'll take pictures of mine later. @ZachSuhr did the work. He trimmed the inside dash rail so it doesn't go over the top of the cowl as much. This little trim helps the frame sit back more against the top of the cowl.
I chopped the stanchions and windshield 3 1/4" on my '29 Roadster...they're not leaned back. The curved bottom of the windshield is about 1/4" above the dash rail...the lower rubber gasket rests on the filler, not the cowl.
Thanks for the replies. I did some measuring today and I think it'll be chopped 2.25", just enough that the windshield pulls don't hit the dashrail.
ron, Check the top pic... see how the w/s frame sets inward... because your posts are out of stock you may not be able to count on your home made posts to fit as tight as the stockers... by lengthening the w/s frame you can make it set against the front of the dashrail… check the pic, longer w/s will set against the cowl's crossrail… my $0.02.
Ron @wheeldog57 built this car out of cast of parts, the body is made up of several different cars. Using hard work and ingenuity he built this roadster and was accepted to race in the T.R.O.G. I am proud to say I helped Ron with some parts for this car and his next project. So his windshield posts are rough. Not everyone can afford to buy the top of the line! We need to build with whatever can find. The build- https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/something-from-nothing-29-roadster-build.1035638/
WTF's wrong with these posts?? Other than they haven't been finished, they'll massage into some nice pieces. When finished, plenty of guys will ask..."Where'd ya get those slick stanchions?"
The Jalopy Journal
