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Need advice for narrowing a winters quick change

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 34fordtruck, Aug 17, 2012.

  1. 34fordtruck
    Joined: Mar 17, 2012
    Posts: 3

    34fordtruck
    Member
    from Minnesota

    I hope some people can help me out. I bought a winters quickchange rear end from a guy who used it in a race car. I am using it on a 34 Ford pickup and it needs to be narrowed. Any ideas on the best way to do this? Also does anyone have ideas on how to get drum brakes mounted to the axle tubes? I am running 17" Ford wire wheels but haven't found brakes for it yet. Any help out there would be greatly appreciated, thanks for your time.

    BT
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  2. Lytles Garage
    Joined: May 6, 2011
    Posts: 621

    Lytles Garage
    Member

    Best to put new tubes on it with 9 " ends, thats what I did. Chris
     
  3. The tubes will come out with a little heat applied to the sleeves on the bells. We throw them on the barbeque (really) for awhile, then press the tubes out. Any (TRUE)3" OD tubes off an OEM axle housing should go right back in.
     
  4. Shaggy
    Joined: Mar 6, 2003
    Posts: 5,207

    Shaggy
    Member
    from Sultan, WA

    First off, what center and bells are you running??
     

  5. Tman
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 34,954

    Tman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  6. GearheadsQCE
    Joined: Mar 23, 2011
    Posts: 2,805

    GearheadsQCE
    Alliance Vendor

    Here's how I would do it.

    If the tubes are longer than necessary and straight, I would save them and use the floater hubs.

    Measure the axle as it is, wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface. Determine what your new dimension needs to be.

    Remove all the tube to bell bolts. You can heat the assembly in a grill as already suggested or an oven. (I wound up with mine, when my wife wanted a new range). (Sometimes, I make a little snack with it too.)

    If you are very careful you can heat the bell with a rosebud heater. This may be quicker because you can direct the heat to the bell without heating the tube. Just too hot to leave your hand on it usually works (about 150 degees). If you heat the whole assembly you may have to get it closer to 300.

    Once the tubes are out and cool, mike the diameter at the inboard end. You need to turn the tube to this diameter 5" from the end, after shortening. You can just cut them off with a chop saw or band saw. Square up the ends with a grinder.

    If you want the center section centered in the car, make sure the tubes are the same length. More than likely, they will be different lengths if the rear is from a race car.

    Now heat the bells in the oven or grill to 250-300 degrees, set them on the floor and drop the tube in being sure it is clocked the way you want it.

    Assemble the whole mess and measure inside the the housing from end to end with a tape measure. Divide this number by two and subract 1/2". This gives you the axle length you will need. (You can cheat this dimension a little either way. If you get axles a little long you can chop them off. If they are short you can space them out with bolts & jam nuts.

    If you must have late model push in axles, you can buy the housing ends from Moser, Winters and I believe Currie. You can get axles with the desired bolt pattern from them too!
     
  7. groundpounder
    Joined: Jul 1, 2010
    Posts: 260

    groundpounder
    Member Emeritus

    If you lookup Winters Quickchange rear ends ....on line they have all the info on assembly and all parts. I'm not trying to promote Winters but a lot of useful info on there! I just use the the Catalog when I have Questions. All the measurements are in there also for track widths and axle tube, snout and axle measurements. On my Old late model reared, pressed out the aluminum axle tubes, bought steel tubes with GN snouts after figuring out tread width. Installed the tubes and used the GN floater hubs , 4-3/4 bolt circle, removing the threaded 5/8 studs and drilling for Moroso 1/2 - 20 wheel studs. Worked awesome and now have floater rearend using the big 31 spline axles. Hope this works!
     
  8. flamedabone
    Joined: Aug 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,976

    flamedabone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Great information so far, the only thing I would like to add is check to see if your rearend has a spool or a differential. The spool will suck on the street but can be replaced with just about any diff made for a quickie. They usually run about 200-250 on ebay and are EASY to install. Even I can do it.

    Also, score a Winters catalog for any part yo would ever need and a kick ass assembly instruction section. And, hit the search button there is a shit load of info floating around here.

    Good luck, -Abone.
     
  9. Shaggy
    Joined: Mar 6, 2003
    Posts: 5,207

    Shaggy
    Member
    from Sultan, WA

    Floater hubs wont work with his 17" wires, correct me if i'm wrong, but i think floaters will only allow him to run wide 5's or p/u 8 lug due to the diameter of the hub
     
  10. GearheadsQCE
    Joined: Mar 23, 2011
    Posts: 2,805

    GearheadsQCE
    Alliance Vendor

    Haven't ever done this, but Grand National hubs have a small center. What is the BC diameter for a 17" wire?
     
  11. Shaggy
    Joined: Mar 6, 2003
    Posts: 5,207

    Shaggy
    Member
    from Sultan, WA

    5 1/2 on 5 i believe, Now i dont know grand national hubs, They are a floater style hub arent they?? If they are the old style 3/4 ton bearing i havent seen any hubs to accept a normal lug pattern, but my only area of knowlage is early ford and 3/4 ton type hubs


    Anyway almost any rearend end could be used, a semi common one in the early 1950's was to take a merc or F-1 axle+tube end and recut the merc or p/u diff gears to fit in a stock early ford diff. That got you away from the ford tapered axle ends.

    Anyway i'm no expert, i'm just a 27 year old kid that has read and played with every thing q/c i can find and i still see tons of new configs on a regular basis
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2012
  12. 26 roadster
    Joined: Apr 21, 2008
    Posts: 2,017

    26 roadster
    Member

    I used tubes from a 9" and turned them to fit my bells, had axles cut and used the truck brakes, simple
     
  13. SlamIam
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 450

    SlamIam
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    This is what I'm doing also, using tubes, axles, and brakes from a wide truck 9" rear, also got a geared QC posi for cheap at a sprint car swap meet.
     
  14. junk yard kid
    Joined: Nov 11, 2007
    Posts: 2,719

    junk yard kid
    Member

    i had a shop put mine together. But we got all the parts from winters. Nine inch ends, axle tubes and axles. I got the brakes off speedway. Now i guess you need to tell winters what drum pilot you want or they wont cut it down and you need to get the centers of the drums enlarged. In my case anyways.
     
  15. GearheadsQCE
    Joined: Mar 23, 2011
    Posts: 2,805

    GearheadsQCE
    Alliance Vendor


    Shaggy,

    Not trying to belabor a point, but thought you might like to see a Grand National hub. This has a 5 on 5" BC. The offset on a brake drum could be tricky, but that's what hot rodding is all about. Solving problems one at a time until you have a car that is what you want.


    100_3307.jpg
     
  16. oj
    Joined: Jul 27, 2008
    Posts: 6,271

    oj
    Member

    I had a franklin with that setup, i believe they used lincoln brakes.
     
  17. Shaggy
    Joined: Mar 6, 2003
    Posts: 5,207

    Shaggy
    Member
    from Sultan, WA

    Oh, thanks, that does look like it's a floater, like i said i'm not familliar with that newer stuff, I'll have to check those out better, the GN rears ive seen appeared to have 9" or similar hubs. I love learning more about this stuff
     

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