Ok I am replacing floor pans on my 62 c10 now when I got this thing there was no rockers and barely any floor pans left so I put the doors on today for mock up before I put the rockers on and the passenger door has a huge gap and the driver door is pretty much hitting leaving no room for the rocker and I highly don't thing its the pans i welding in everything was measured and put on correctly just don't understand what could be the issue any help please i really don't want to have to cut the pans back out and have to redo it. hear are a couple pics to show whats going on
with rockers gone and the floor pans removed bracing up the cab so things don't move around would have been a good idea now you may have to bolt the cab back down on the frame , cut a few things loose to line things up and try again
The cab was braced up the whole time here is a pic of it that cab didn't shift I measured everything befor during and after
Plus when I have the doors off and line the rockers up they line up perfect with everything kinda making me think it's the driver Door that might have a issue
I think you needed to have the doors on when you were fitting the floor (and rockers)... In the picture of the inside, driver side, the door looks straight, but it looks like there's a lump in the floor, in the middle, where it is hitting the door. You can see better than us, what does it look like when you eyeball it from the end of the door? and if you put a straight edge on the floor?
The door isn't 100% straight and ya there is a little bump there from the weld that I need to grind down some but the main issue is the diff in gaps between the 2 sides
I had a project where I braced it measured over and over but it still moved after a couple welds. Sent from my MotoG3 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I know you want an easy answer...but reality is that the replacement parts don't always fit right, and old cabs are not always straight, especially when the bottom is rotted off. You need to get all the parts to the jigsaw puzzle lined up and fitting well, before you weld any of it together.
I would bolt it down on the frame and se what happens. Then you can adjust from there. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
It might sound silly but I only use one dedicated tape measure on a project start to finish. A couple of years ago the piece I had cut out for a certain spot didn't jive with the rest of the unit and I started looking at my tape measure collection and due to the tip designs and some tips being a bit loose (ok for framing the shop) with two having hooks on the tip to go around a nail things were off between them as much as a quarter inch at the same mark on my table saw that I used for the measurements. Having had a lot of older GM trucks pass though my hands I'd have to say that the given measurements in the plans aren't always what you find when you start working on one. Those trucks were pretty well assembled by hand without a lot of jigs or fixtures and no lasers or other precise measuring tools and they can be off a bit.
I'd say the back of the truck is not centered to the cowl AKA a twist in the roof or it happened low at the cab corners. The rear lowers needs shifted to the to the drivers side. Look at the interior shots & notice the gaps at the front are about the same. As you look to the rear all of the needed clearance is on the drivers side. You could probably tweak it enough with a 2x4 and bfh on the tight side.
Is this even a option can I section the inner rocker that is hitting enough to get the outer rocker in and lined up is it possible to work that way
I would position the outer rockers before you go cutting things out. Position them so they line up like they should with the doors then tack them in (double check alignment with the doors in place). Then go back and cut the floor and move stuff to fit the outer rockers.
The best thing is to correct the problem and to not accommodate the problem. Where the problem lies??? It looks like that hump is at least the main symptom of problem for sure, Also, The braces shown would do nothing to keep the cowl square. How does the door fit? Line up everything above the the strikers evenly with the strikers latched and flush at the striker. Look for What's out of whack down low. Is one side in while the other side is out?
The doors on the out side line up just like they did befor the truck was ripped apart and ya it's the up in the middle that is causing a lot of issue I need to get that back a little so there is enough gap to fit the outer rocker in
That really doesn't help us a whole lot since we weren't there before or now. If they fit sorta ok sitting on rust squishy un even cab mounts and with a rotted floor that let the cab move around like jello and you fit them exactly as before well that's not necessarily a good thing. The horse is already out, but you really can't use aftermarket panels as any type of guide for body alignment or fitting. With the body in perfect alignment almost any panels will need tweaked for proper fitment. Obtaining good fitment with aftermarket panels and then assuming they will ultimately force a perfect body alignment usually has a disastrous ending. Having the cab bolted down to a true, stable & strong immobile surface help greatly. Get the edges correct, both doors to jambs, and doors to fenders, then make the middles follow. You can tap the door edges any way you need to and fill or section. Don't trust the lower cab corners or any other aftermarket panels or previous old patches, move those to fit the factory stuff.
I measure and square everything up. I make sure the measurements are the same on both sides. I do the inner rockers and then hang the door. I put the fender on and then line up the outer rockers with the front fenders and the back of the outer rocker with cab corner and screw them down. I then take off door and weld.
When I say the measurements are same I mean the door opening from roof to inner rocker and from door opening front to back. I level my cab before I even start. If it is messed up - then cut it out and do it over, it's just metal. You will be glad u did and will be easier in the future. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The first thing I would do is drop it back on the frame. the weight of the cab can twist it if its not sitting on its mounting points.
With the cab floors and rockers gone. There is a possibility that the cab became warped before you took it off the frame. If that has occurred those braces you installed where simply holding the cab in the warped position it already was in. My advice. Is buy a solid of a cab as you can find. It will be cheaper in the long run. Your in Texas a better cab shouldn't be hard to find.
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