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need a little help putting body back on chassis on 52 chev

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by scottydc, Oct 9, 2011.

  1. scottydc
    Joined: Oct 26, 2010
    Posts: 129

    scottydc
    Member
    from Waco TX

    Well it was probably the most dreaded, nastiest, dirty, ugly job ever but I finally got the underside of my 52 cleaned and painted. So now I'm ready to remount the body to frame. But first I need some pointers on a few items.

    1: how does one shim the body? The driver side door drags when closing and if I put a jack about mid way of the door and put a little pressure on the body by lifting it the door straightens out. I'm hoping shimming will solve it but with all the mounting points I'm at a loss on where to start. I've done a search:cool: but only came up with model a info.

    2: upon disassembling I had 3 bolts break off in the body. I'm hoping that I can extract them with an ez out but if I can't what would you guys suggest? Drill em? Leave em out? I appreciate any help.
     
  2. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,657

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    If you can get at both ends of the bolts clean them with a wire brush in a drill or even better, sand blast. If there is enough sticking out to grab with vice grips, heat the bolt red grab it and unscrew it. If this fails you can try the easy out. A good man with an acetylene torch can blow the bolt out without touching the threads. I did this many times to remove broken exhaust studs when I worked in a muffler shop.

    Do you have new body mount rubbers? Were there any shims in the mounts when you took it apart?

    Try setting the body on the mounts then lift the rocker panel with a jack until the door works real peachy. Then slip some shims into the mounts as necessary. Just put in as many as there are room for. Probably 2 or 3 under the door and 1 on the other mounts but who knows. You may have to experiment a little to get it perfect.

    The body mount bolts are supposed to have a steel sleeve on them to prevent over tightening. Some of the old bolts may have them on, you can cut some pieces of tubing the same length. This will guarantee all mounts are tightened perfect.

    You may have to adjust the door to get it to work perfect. The rule is you hang the door to fit the opening, then fit the latch, then fit the fender to the door and finally the hood to the fenders.

    It is kind of complicated, you just have to do everything one step at a time.
     
  3. scottydc
    Joined: Oct 26, 2010
    Posts: 129

    scottydc
    Member
    from Waco TX

    When I took it apart most of the mounts were loose and some missing so I didn't bother keeping up with placement and whatnot. These mounts just use a simple rubber pad, with no sleeves or anything. The bolts are broke off to where you can't get anything on them. The torch idea sounds good. I've also thought about welding studs in the place of them.
     
  4. Have you tried getting to the bolts from the top side. I've peeled the floor back to get to the bolt and then heated are lubed it good and used the vise grips.
     

  5. scottydc
    Joined: Oct 26, 2010
    Posts: 129

    scottydc
    Member
    from Waco TX

    Ill give that a try,
     

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