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Customs Need a little help painting.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by B Ramsey, Feb 11, 2017.

  1. B Ramsey
    Joined: Mar 29, 2009
    Posts: 646

    B Ramsey
    Member

    Have this stalled out project, sons '62 Fairlane Sports Coupe. we need to paint the interior and move forward. I have all the equipment, but my painting experience is limited to trailers and parts and whatever, not with automotive type paint. I have the paint and clear coat, but am not sure exactly how to prep it. The color is the original red color.
    what grit does it need to be sanded to? will I need primer, sealer or anything like that? I really need a step by step, tried searching but there is so much info out there and honestly its confusing.

    any advise will be appreciated, thanks! DSCN1526.JPG DSCN1527.JPG DSCN1528.JPG DSCN1529.JPG
     
  2. metalman
    Joined: Dec 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,280

    metalman
    Member

    Search out the threads Paintguru has been posting on here, he's putting out a lot of info that would help a novice painter.
    Good luck, as long as you understand how to handle a paint gun and follow the instructions for the paint your using there is no reason you can't get an exceptable paint job.
     
  3. injunjoes
    Joined: May 8, 2007
    Posts: 236

    injunjoes
    Member

  4. Sinister Sleds
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 44

    Sinister Sleds
    Member
    from Gloucester

    Depends on the finish you are looking for. The ideal situation would be as follows. Some steps could be removed.
    1. finish removal of crank handles etc.

    2. I would sand to bare metal all visible areas just to make sure I did not have lifting. This step could be skipped and go to step 7 after step 3 is completed.

    3. Sand dash to clean metal. Coat with ospho / metal prep then sand again

    4 hamner / metal finish any accessible dents.

    5 seal with epoxy primer.

    6. Flatwork / filler work any areas where it is needed to 320 grit

    7. Scuff epoxy / paint with a scotch brite pad to promote adheasion. And seal with a high build primer. If skipping steps seal the bare metal and skip step 9.

    8. Wet or dry sand visible areas with 400 or finer grit and mask.

    9. Paint dash and interior. If you are unsure of spraying then crank the flow on your gun all the way in and then back it out 2-3 turns. This should get you in the ball park. I like to do 2 coats for each piece. For example on a door. I do the edges, then starting at the top work my way to the bottom then back to the top. If the paint looks dry then open the flow a little more. Watch yourself with bc/cc systems as the clears tend to flow for a bit so if you lay it on trying to get is smooth it out it will run. It may look dry when you initially apply the paint but with in a couple minutes it should smooth out. If not open flow to allow for more material. This is using HVLP.

    I usually do 2-3 coats of color and 1+ coats of clear depending on how the first coat lays out and if I will be wetsanding and buffing. 3 min if I plan to sand and buff.

    Allow to dry then wetsand andn buff any spots if you want





    Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2017

  5. southcross2631
    Joined: Jan 20, 2013
    Posts: 4,412

    southcross2631
    Member

    Careful getting too much gloss on the top of the dash. It causes a real bad reflection and makes it hard to drive in certain light. I had a Falcon street Gasser that had a beautiful gold metal flake dash that I had to put a piece of carpet over late in the afternoon or you couldn't see to drive.
    Get some old sheet metal and prep it and paint it . Sand it off and paint it again . Repeat as needed to get good with your paint gun. Buy the best gun you can afford and take care of it.
    Sometimes body shops or paint stores have paint that never got picked up or left over that you can get cheap so you don't have to use up your expensive paint for practice.
    Paint stores put on seminars ,some are free and they usually serve pizza! The reps from paint companies explain the process.
     
  6. while no one has mentioned it be fully aware of the need for professional gear to protect you from the "air" that you will be exposed to while sanding and painting
     
  7. MidwestOldie
    Joined: Jul 7, 2016
    Posts: 59

    MidwestOldie

    Practice on a few door spots to get your adjustments and feel. Then go at it. You'll be happy. Then give us a new pix.
     
  8. kma4444
    Joined: Sep 24, 2008
    Posts: 197

    kma4444
    Member

  9. FrankenRodz
    Joined: Dec 20, 2007
    Posts: 892

    FrankenRodz
    Member

    I used Rattle Can from Automotive Touchup on my '62.
    Been using them for years, 'cause their paint is FANTASTIC!
    You'd have to be a real dope to mess up. I've never had runs, and the finish wears like iron.
    -Let me know if you need any Parts. I have a ton of New and Used left-over stuff I didn't need/use.

    DSCN0959.JPG Interior Side.JPG DSCN0963.JPG
     
    low budget likes this.
  10. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 48,664

    squirrel
    Member

    I like how the tips vary from using a spray can, to doing a full on professional repaint job from stripping and epoxy primer, up.

    you might find that somewhere in between is what you want. Depends on how much money you want to spend, how much work you want to do, how long it has to last, how good it has to look. When I did my Chevy II interior a few years ago, I sanded it to bare metal, 180 grit. then sprayed on lacquer primer, then sanded with 400, then painted with catalyzed acrylic enamel. It worked fine. I should have fixed a couple of the dents that I didn't notice...but it's just an old race car, so it's not a big deal. If you are looking for a perfect finish, then do the prime/sand thing a few times, so you'll find more of the imperfections.

    [​IMG]
     
    low budget likes this.
  11. low budget
    Joined: Nov 15, 2006
    Posts: 5,564

    low budget
    Member
    from Central Ky

    Wow, Thats some longer wait times than Im use to hearing but I have heard of longer wait times in general being better without the specifics given, However Im no pro at all, Im just tryin to learn.
     
  12. kma4444
    Joined: Sep 24, 2008
    Posts: 197

    kma4444
    Member

    You really will have a hard time finding better products, advise or people than at SPI.

    And Squirrel is right, there are many levels of intensity to paint work. To me, the sanding is the worst part. If you decide to go to bare metal then the little bit of extra work and money to spring for epoxy primer and doing a little extra sanding before paint makes the finished product much more gratifying. But yeah, a scuff and spray can be perfect if that's what you are looking for.
     
    low budget likes this.

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