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Technical Nasty Welds

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by mister Bill, Jul 18, 2020.

  1. mister Bill
    Joined: Jul 16, 2019
    Posts: 25

    mister Bill

    I have a 7" grinder that I have cutoff discs for, but since I am recovering from shoulder surgery I am a little apprehensive about using it. I know if I am not careful it will bind and jump-I am thinking this would not be good for my shoulder. I am thinking of getting a pneumatic cutoff saw, I am wondering if this would be a problem to hold onto-compared to my large grinder.
    My question-is a pneumatic cutoff saw easy to handle.

    other nasty weld.jpg nasty weld.jpg
  2. brading
    Joined: Sep 9, 2019
    Posts: 257


    Think the best thing you can do is get a friend to do it for you and repay the favour when you have healed up.
  3. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 7,021

    from Nicasio Ca

    Why not a small angle grinder with 3 or 4" disc? I use mine one handed mostly.
    alanp561 and anothercarguy like this.
  4. chop job
    Joined: Feb 16, 2013
    Posts: 587

    chop job
    from Wisconsin

    I second that motion get a good friend to help that is what friends are for.
    Hnstray and Just Gary like this.

  5. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 4,739


    Are you looking to replace the crossmember, or fix the nasty welds?
  6. mister Bill
    Joined: Jul 16, 2019
    Posts: 25

    mister Bill

    I was thinking of a small straight one-seems like the angle would give me a little more leverage-wouldn't be constantly fighting it.
  7. mister Bill
    Joined: Jul 16, 2019
    Posts: 25

    mister Bill

    I avoid working with people like it was the plague.
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2020
    metlmunchr and partsdawg like this.
  8. rc57
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 532


    Let your shoulder heal! I started working too early and it took almost a year to be pain free again.
    Just Gary likes this.
  9. Having had a shoulder replacement a few tears ago I would suggest to heed the advice that had already been given, get a friend to do the job.

    And never pick up that big grinder again, unless you pick it up to take it to the swap meet. HRP
  10. mister Bill
    Joined: Jul 16, 2019
    Posts: 25

    mister Bill

    bent back bumper.jpg
    The bumper is welded about two inches too far forward on one side, then twisted back on the side and welded back. Right now I need to get my engine hoist closer to the motor(it is two feet from the motor), so the bumper has to go.
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2020
  11. mister Bill
    Joined: Jul 16, 2019
    Posts: 25

    mister Bill

  12. bubba55
    Joined: Feb 27, 2011
    Posts: 347


    As stated above - get the help and pay back later - and do yourself another favor - get a grinder with paddle switch - says Bubba with scars to prove it

    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
  13. mister Bill
    Joined: Jul 16, 2019
    Posts: 25

    mister Bill

    I am actually being pretty careful. I am used to being in pain(knees back etc)so I am used to automatically avoiding things that I know are going to hurt(like my grinder). I am more apt to get hurt trying to change my shirt or pull up my socks.

    I'm thinking good day for discovery channel-watch other people fix cars. lol
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2020
    TrailerTrashToo, Budget36 and rc57 like this.
  14. Los_Control
    Joined: Oct 7, 2016
    Posts: 715

    from TX

    Can I ask what you all use on your 4" grinders to grind welds with?

    As a carpenter, I used a 4" grinder with 36 grit paper constantly with wood ... I love them.

    Now learning to work with metal, I own 3 of them. One with a wire wheel, one with cut off disk and another for grinding. I love them.

    Problem am having welding body panels, spending way too much time grinding welds off, creating more heat from the grinder then from the welder. I have tried flap disk and a grinding wheel, 36 grit paper ... I bought a variety last week that not tried yet.

    So to add to this post, what are people using on their grinders for welds?
  15. Do you have an air compressor? I use a small pneumatic die grinder with 3" cutoff wheel. Weighs next to nothing and isn't as brutal as a full on electric 4" grinder.
  16. junkman8888
    Joined: Jan 28, 2009
    Posts: 511


    1. One of the hardest things for a man to do is ask for help, if there is any time in your life to get paid back for a past favor, now is the time.
    2. Paddle switches are much safer on a grinder than a toggle switch, having said that, every one of my big grinders have toggle switches. In one way it makes the tool safer because before I pick it up I mentally go through the job at hand, and what my options are if something goes wrong.
    3. All of the grinder scars I have were caused not by any design flaw in the tool, but by my own stupidity, as in not thinking before doing. Also, never work tired.
    4. I try to avoid air cut-off tools because the lack of torque in an air motor is compensated by an increase in RPM's, in other words, air tools spin much faster than electric tools. More RPM's means the cut-off disk can cause much more damage to you if the disk fails. (There's a picture on the internet of a guy with a cut-off wheel disk stuck in his face, every time I pick up an air cut-off tool, I think of that picture).
    5. The best grinder I've ever used is a Metabo, it has internal circuitry that automatically compensates for changes in torque, which means it much safer than the other grinders I have.
    Best of luck and hope you heal well.
  17. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 5,318

    Marty Strode

    I second the fact that Metabo grinders are the smoothest operating small grinder I have used. In your case, using 4-1/2", thin, slitting wheels from Fastenal, (Predator brand) work great and wear well.
  18. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 3,991


    For bodywork welds on 4" grinder, I use a 5" sanding disc with 5" hard plastic backer for a very fast leveling pass. Move fast - dont touch the surrounding panel. Switch to a stone wheel, put the guard back on, they dont cut as fast but dont build as much heat, again dont linger do a light cut and move on, come back for another pass if you need.
    From there its air tools, small grinders, then onto files.
    If I was a better bodyman, I wouldnt need the 4" grinder.

    Its tempting to put a cut off wheel in a 4" grinder and go at it, this puts side load on the thin wheel. Your chance of having one fail are substantially higher with a side load. I dont do it, up to you.

    I usually keep 3-4 grinders set up with each version of sanding disc, stones, wire wheel etc. I force myself to walk away, so I dont go too fast and build too much heat in any area.
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2020
    Los_Control likes this.
  19. lostone
    Joined: Oct 13, 2013
    Posts: 1,439

    from kansas

    If you must do it yourself here are what I see as your options:

    1: torch, if you own one, then clean up.

    2: air grinder, as stated above they aren't torque monsters so less chance of shoulder damage if you catch it or lock it up.

    3: 4" electric grinder BUT be sure to use the extra handle to help spread the pressure and torque between both hands/arms and shoulders.....
  20. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 1,920

    rusty valley

    3"pneumatic cutoff wheel to remove the part, then clean up with the big grinder with a flap disk
  21. BamaMav
    Joined: Jun 19, 2011
    Posts: 4,577

    from Berry, AL

    I second this. I have a 4" air grinder and two air die grinders. Use a cutoff wheel on one die grinder, various grind stones on the other.
    rusty valley likes this.
  22. Beanscoot
    Joined: May 14, 2008
    Posts: 1,683


    Before you get to the grinders, I think you need to work on your welding technique.



    A good quality grinding wheel / disc makes a big difference.
  23. indyjps
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 3,991


    I have about 10 grinders between the 2 shops. Bosch are my favorite, smooth, small body allows for good grip, well balanced.

    Dewalt, its big amp version, workhorse but not real smooth, heavy, unbalanced.
    Hitachi (3), got these at an industrial auction, all sound like hell when running but they keep chugging along, handle well in use.
    Plenty of low amp box store specials, useful to keep around loaded with different wheels, when I need to cut one thing. I dont use them for bodywork.
    Black and Decker industrial (2) great grinder, I scored 2 of these cheap, new old stock from a tool distributor that was clearing out inventory. Probably late 80's models. Black and decker brand has been so degraded no one would touch them, black and decker industrial was dewalt before it split off into separate brand in the early 90's.

    Ive been buying stones, wheels, discs, cut off wheels from lehigh valley abrasives, or check the inventory at bodyshop supply like tcpglobal when I buy paint.
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2020
  24. rc57
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 532


    I never, ever run air grinders or cut-offs at full speed- dangerous and just wipes out your discs.
    I throttle with index finger between trigger and body, is more accurate, less heat and will usually take off more material than at high speed.

    shawnsauto1, RMR&C and hotrodA like this.
  25. ekimneirbo
    Joined: Apr 29, 2017
    Posts: 1,602

    from Brooks Ky

    I think something small like rc57 posted will work well if you have a decent air compressor. I like to use electric rather than air as it seems more easily manuevered. The thing about thin cut off wheels is they cut well and you begin to get a slit or notch and want to keep going. Then they grab and jerk your arm.
    In your situation I would just get some thicker wheels and a small 90 degree grinder. Then they won't tend to grab and jerk.
  26. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 27,855


    I've got a really nice 7 inch grinder, somewhere in the recesses of the garage, Too big, heavy and cumbersome to use even when I don't hurt.
    I've got a blue HF "Hercules" 4--1/2 inch angle grinder that is my go to unit along with a few other 4-1/2 inch grinders It still works your shoulder more than you need. If you have Air to run a Pneumatic unit that is the way I'd go.
  27. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 2,426


    I have a 7" grinder that I mounted a shrinking disc on. I could seriously get hurt with that.

    Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
    X-cpe likes this.
  28. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 3,543


    All good suggestions but the "patina patrol" won't like you messing with th front of your Dodge frame! LOL
  29. mickeyc
    Joined: Jul 8, 2008
    Posts: 1,103


    You might consider some bracing to stabilize that cross member before removing that abomination of welds,
    if it is in the correct position as is. I have a7 inch Metabo I rarely use because of its extreme weight.
    I like my Metabo 4 inch units much better. They have
    a spring /clutch system built in to the retaining nut
    for the the slicing blade. A light and gingerly application works much better than an aggressive
    attack to the offending surfaces I find. Air grinders
    are much lighter and probably would be easier on
    your shoulder. I have had one rotator cuff surgery
    and need another on the other shoulder, so I am
    cognitive to these concerns.
  30. 84004518-5332-4DC6-93F4-D103E7689EAB.jpeg

    So there’s this,
    Air powered, great for getting into sticky tight situations and easy to handle. For certain 1 handed operation out of position and no real issues when it jams.

    Running this on edge over sheet metal bodywork welds gives brain surgery Like precision. But if the weld is high as Mount Everest it’s not the grinder or a better grinder that will fix it. When it comes to bodywork, it’s the high spots that that eat time, set the pace, establish the line. Don’t make high spots with your welding wire.
    shawnsauto1 and saltflats like this.

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