Having problems getting the turn signals I just installed on my Model A (12v) to operate. They will flash a couple of times then quit. The fuse was not blown but the NAPA 552 flasher I'm using was warm to the touch. Placed a test light on the X terminal and got a bright light and when I placed it on the L terminal, dim light. That doesn't seem normal and I am thinking I have a junk flasher. I am using the old signal stat 700 switch and all the wire connections and grounds are good. Looks Like I will be trying an electronic flasher to see if that helps but would appreciate it if there is anything else I can troubleshoot to see why the flasher quits after a few blinks. Merry Chrsitmas.
You might ask your flasher question here to see if @REBEL43 Has an answer. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/index.php?threads/1120201/ Phil
Jump the flasher socket and see what happens; sounds like you may have a short and flasher ends up acting as a circuit breaker until it gets too hot.
Quickest and easiest would be to swap it out. It’s new, doesn’t mean it’s good. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Just a couple of things off the top of my head, but first, a bit of flasher info. If you've ever taken a flasher apart, you'll see that there is a thin piece of spring steel in there with a crease folded into it and contacts like in a set of points. Those bits of sprung metal come in various shapes and sizes depending on the load on the circuit. That's one of the reasons why there are so many different flasher part numbers. When there is a load on the circuit the steel heats up, expansion works against the crease in the metal causing the piece of metal to "pop" (like the bottom of an oil can or one of those old "pop-o-matic" bubbles on that "Trouble" board game.) and make that signature "click click" sound. When the metal pops, the contacts open, disrupting the circuit. The metal cools, goes back to its original shape, and the process begins again until the switch is canceled. So, a bit of heat from the flasher is normal. Getting HOT is different. Aside from maybe a mis-wired or faulty switch/flasher/hazard switch, the only other thing may be the actual load on the circuit. How many lights are you using per circuit? Do you have more than two lights (front indicator/rear indicator) flashing, per side? Like, if you have another indicator anywhere (using an 1156 or 1157 bulb (I doubt a 168 or 194 would put too much of an extra load on that flasher.) you might have to step up to the #552LL (transistorized) / #LF12, #HD12, or #EL12 (electronic) flasher. If you don't have one already, maybe install a relay between the switch and the flasher. Check your grounds really well. if this thing is searching for a ground, it'll heat up and fail. Also, don't rule out a faulty switch. If you're using one of those old "clamp on the column" style aftermarket turn signal switches, look that thing over real well. I've gone through two of them before I got a good one. I hope some of this is helpful. Good luck and keep us posted.
Thank you very much for this excellent information. The switch looks good and could not detect any visible issues. Going to step up to an electronic flasher and see if this will resolve the issue. Will keep posting updates.
Update: Swapped-out the flasher with an EL12 version and everything is good to go. Thanks for the help.
Conclusion still not met. Only fact is that all wiring is correct. Was the original 552 just bad or was load requirement incorrect?
The Jalopy Journal
