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Projects My "You didn't build that" 27 T Roadster build thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by daddio211, Sep 13, 2012.

  1. daddio211
    Joined: Aug 26, 2008
    Posts: 5,996

    daddio211
    Member

    But OH so close! In reality, I could probably start driving it all over the place and fix it as I drive. I just don't have that kind of spare time currently.

    Sent from my HTC6500LVW using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  2. raven
    Joined: Aug 19, 2002
    Posts: 4,473

    raven
    Member

    She could get her nails done to match the paint.
    r


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  3. daddio211
    Joined: Aug 26, 2008
    Posts: 5,996

    daddio211
    Member

    Funny, I fired up an old iPad searching for some work info last week and came across the first picture I took of the car that I don't think I ever posted. This was when I went to look at it the first time, and how I bought it. I think it's come a long way!

    I'd forgotten about the Weld Drag-Lites and the maroon upholstery.
    0.jpg
     
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  4. Hard to believe what was to be found behind the paint.....the body looks perfect in that shot and yes, it has come a looooooooooooooooooooooooong way!!;):D JW
     
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  5. daddio211
    Joined: Aug 26, 2008
    Posts: 5,996

    daddio211
    Member

    I wish I had the talent to have worked the metal more and use less filler, but I'm happy with the outcome. Next time.

    Sent from my HTC6500LVW using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  6. In your last driving video you mentioned something about the left front brake, what was up with it and did you get the shifter sorted with the safety switch? JW
     
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  7. daddio211
    Joined: Aug 26, 2008
    Posts: 5,996

    daddio211
    Member

    I haven't even looked at it yet, but I haven't driven it since either. I did adjust the shift linkage though so I can actually utilize park but it still needs some adjustment. Also finishing little items here and there with stuff I had on the shelf.

    I detested the plug wires but I threw some on to get it running. I had orderded 30' of cloth braided plug wire, boots and ends from Brillman. Cut wires to length, terminated ends and the result is much more palatable.

    IMAG1068.jpeg
    IMAG1067.jpeg
    IMAG1069.jpeg

    For my future reference, 30' was barely enough to run under the headers. I ended up with about 18" to spare.

    Also, Brillman has awesome products and they're reasonably priced. Shipping was fast too. Highly recommended.

    1542738042378.jpeg

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  8. They look the cats whiskers.:cool::cool: JW
     
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  9. Finnrodder
    Joined: Oct 18, 2009
    Posts: 2,930

    Finnrodder
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Finland

    I havent checked out this thread for awhile. Looks pretty cool!
     
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  10. daddio211
    Joined: Aug 26, 2008
    Posts: 5,996

    daddio211
    Member

    A few months ago at a construction site I picked up a 4' x 10' sheet of off-white stuff that looks like Formica. Not really sure what it is, but it's about 1/16" think and not brittle. It's kind of like an ABS plastic, yet not.

    Anyway, I figured I'd grab it because the general contractor was throwing 10 sheets of it in the dumpster. After working with it today I should have grabbed it all! Easy to cut, easy to work, and you can bend it without it breaking. I'll figure out what it is exactly and post it.

    Anyway, I used it to build bases for door and kick panels. This certainly isn't permanent but I felt it looked better than the raw interior. And maybe the upholstery guy can use them too.

    20181125_183259.jpeg

    I'll also build trunk panels and already have the templates made for them in wood.

    Been having an issue getting the car to start ever since I did the plug wires. Carefully respected all of my ends, they all look good. Checked for spark from the coil, nothing. Switched back to the previous coil wire and still nothing. Seems awfully coincidental that it took a shit when I replaced my wires though.

    How can I test the coil to know if its good? I know I have voltage to it when I turn the key because that was the first thing I tested.

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  11. Its very hard to check a coil with out it being under working load. The best way would be to try a new one and if still nothing then you know to look elsewhere. Are you running a ballast type coil, if so are you getting 12v from the starter when cranking. Hey you will work it out.;):D JW
     
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  12. redzula
    Joined: Jul 6, 2011
    Posts: 820

    redzula
    Member

    Good luck with the starting issue. That panel stuff sounds a lot like the FRP (fiber reinforced plastic) wall panels we put up in our stores at work. Comes either attached to osb plywood or as just the plastic sheets.

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  13. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 4,339

    atch
    Member

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  14. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 1,472

    goldmountain

    For door panel upholstery board, my upholsterer friend gave me a great tip. He had a contract with the city's transit system for repairing ripped seats in the buses and noticed the plastic advertising panels that slid in place on the sides of the buses. They are light weight plastic and work out great and since they get changed out with new advertising, he got them for free. I checked with the transit garage and they gave them to me for free too. Bus advertising seems to be switching over to vinyl wrap so get them now.
     
  15. gonzo
    Joined: Dec 24, 2003
    Posts: 1,655

    gonzo
    Member

    Killer man. Congratulations.
     
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  16. birdog
    Joined: Nov 25, 2010
    Posts: 385

    birdog
    Member

    Looks great man!!
     
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  17. daddio211
    Joined: Aug 26, 2008
    Posts: 5,996

    daddio211
    Member

    It's been a LONG time since I've been here. Life has been hectic, crazy, insane, etc. Family and business are great, keeping me running my ass ragged. As such, I haven't touched the roadster since Thanksgiving.

    When we last left off I was troubleshooting an ignition issue. Then the car sat dormant collecting dust for nearly four months because I just didn't have time to screw with it. I'd been thinking about it a lot and just couldn't come up with a solid reason why it stopped giving spark. I knew I had 12VDC at the coil (as required by the HEI manufacturer), a good battery, had purchased and installed another coil but then I was run over by life.

    I threw a question out on Facebook asking if anyone local wanted to help me diagnose the issue. Of course, nobody local made a peep but I did get help from all over the US and Canada. Interestingly, my buddy John pointed out that the plug wires (Brillman from a few posts above) looked like solid core. He was right. Although I carefully ordered what I thought were the correct HEI rated wires as Pertronix recommends with their Flame Thrower II I actually got wires that weren't rated for HEI at all. As such, the feedback seems to have fried the Pertronix Igniter module in the distributor.

    Before anyone jumps on the anti-Pertronix wagon, this was completely my fault. Lots of guys report running regular wires with with Pertronix ignitions without issues but this wasn't my luck. Pertronix has always highly recommended the correct wires. My research was wrong, and I can't be the only one as Brillman's home page now has a warning on their homepage advising that there are different wires available. An email to them seeking the correct part number is still unanswered nearly two weeks later.

    So that brings us to where we are now. I replaced the Igniter module and switched back to the original wires. Fired right up and runs great again. Lesson learned.

    Items remaining:
    • Find a front Ford brake drum, the driver's side is indeed warped.
    • Troubleshoot thermal auto fan switch.
    • Wire trans lockout.
    • Finish polishing paint.
    • Interior.
    • DTPOOI - drive the piss out of it!
     
  18. Thats the good thing about Hot Rods, they just wait till you are ready to play with them again. I just took an old mate for a blast in mine, narrow country roads and 75+ mph gets a tad scary when the secondaries open on the Holley!!
    Looking forward as usual to more updates.:cool::D:D JW
     
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  19. daddio211
    Joined: Aug 26, 2008
    Posts: 5,996

    daddio211
    Member

    Caster is at 8° and not really adjustable because of the way we set up the suspension, but 8° will be fine.

    Front tires were at 20 PSI, I'll probably add a little to them.

    Toe was in 1/2" (one inch difference front to rear). Adjusted it to 1/8".

    Went through and retightened every nut and bolt, all were good.

    HOWEVER... I may or may not have found the culprit. I grabbed the top of the driver's side tire and gave it a good shake while the car was still on the ground. I could hear a slight clicking from the passenger side spindle/drum area. Hmmm...

    Further investigation seemed almost as if the spindle nut needed a little attention. I pulled the wheel and brake drum and sure enough, it clicked when pushed or pulled.

    I pulled the cotter pin, tightened it to the next keyway and reinstalled the cotter. No more clicking.

    I drove the car around a little and up to 45, no death wobble. I may have solved it but need to drive it a bit more before I'm comfortable letting Victoria take off in it.

    One piece at a time.



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  20. Always great to see a Vid of the Roadster in motion. I noticed it doesn't much like bumps! I didnt know you had death wobble.
    Im starting to go a bit fast in mine, must slow down but it likes it.:cool::D JW
     
  21. daddio211
    Joined: Aug 26, 2008
    Posts: 5,996

    daddio211
    Member

    Yeah, it wasn't in any way shape or from manageable until I got the car down to 5 MPH, then was fine. Fortunately, both times I was able to get out of the way of traffic and to the side of the road.

    You know me, I plan to drive this thing all over the west coast at 85 so I can't have something like that with Victoria behind the wheel. She's an extremely good driver but that would scare her to death.

    After the video I went inside and did a few things then came out to put all of the tools away. Thought it looked pretty good sitting in the driveway.

    IMG_20190402_090021_007.jpeg

    Working out of town, I'll get more done when I return. Although it seems I have the death wobble under control momentarily (at least up to 45 MPH) I'm going to add a steering stabilizer too.

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  22. Looks good sitting anywhere !!:D:cool: JW
     
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  23. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 4,350

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

    It's so smooth and refined sounding, and quiet. Where's the shakes and rattles? haha. Dang, my A sounds like an old jalopy running down the road, that thing sounds tight!
     
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  24. Mike Moreau
    Joined: Sep 16, 2011
    Posts: 286

    Mike Moreau
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Great thread. Learned a lot following your build. I had a death wobble on my 29 coupster. (cross steer). A professional alignment solved the problem. The only adjustment was toe-in, which was way off. I installed a stabilizer just for insurance. I used a VW beetle stabilizer from AutoZone. Cheap and did the trick. After following your build, I won't insult your abilities with the details of the minor bracket fabrication.
     
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  25. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 10,171

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    The video was inspiring Eric.
    I’m getting a lot closer with my build to being able to do the same.
    So Cal makes a nice steering stabilizer I’m trying to leave room for one if I need it, hoping that I won’t.
    Post details on how you mount it when you do.
    Larry
     
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  26. daddio211
    Joined: Aug 26, 2008
    Posts: 5,996

    daddio211
    Member

    Hey guys, ran the roadster around the neighborhood for a bit tonight - still has death wobble but significantly less. I'm going to play with tire pressure and see what I can come up with. Rear main seal is puking out oil so that needs attention too.

    As the sun was dropping behind the hills we had another amazing desert sunset, figured I'd shoot some pics as the lighting was great.

    20190406_194254.jpeg

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    IMG_20190406_201527_680.jpeg

    20190406_200700.jpeg


    IG: daddio211
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  27. Looks great, Eric. Your front tires look half inflated, I run 24 psi in mine and looking at the drag link angle to the radius rod angle this may give bump steer. I hope im wrong. Do you have any movement anywhere in the front end? May I suggest removing the front panhard bar and trying it out as going by the angle of the front shackles it won't need it unless the front spring settles some what. JW
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2019
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  28. daddio211
    Joined: Aug 26, 2008
    Posts: 5,996

    daddio211
    Member

    Thanks Jeremy. The tires are at 20 PSI, I think I'll take them up a pound at a time and see what happens. The drag link is parallel to the split bones although it may not look like it. No movement in the front, dropping the (unnecessary) front lanyard might be worth a shot.

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  29. With those shackles as straight as they are there is no room or very little room for any movement and if the Panhard bar moves in an arch at all it will pull the front axle to the drivers side them back to centre. You need to try one thing at a time or you won't know what fixed it. Good luck and looking OH so good. JW
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2019
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  30. gonzo
    Joined: Dec 24, 2003
    Posts: 1,655

    gonzo
    Member

    20 psi sounds way too soft to me. I run 30 psi in my front tires, which is what Coker recommends for my application (525-16 bias plys). What's written on your sidewall?
     
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