Nice work Stefan, as always. Interesting that you did not run front brake lines through the frame, but ran them over the top of the frame. I have always wondered why all instructions seem to say "run through frame". Must be some reason, but I do not know why your set-up will not work.
Thanks for the coments We want see if it works with the brake lines or not but one thing that my car is diffrent is hat i don't use the original steering knockel but over to the update i have not done a update for a whail but have done som work the fram have no machinery so time for that so i take the ford flathead and use that i had to install the chevy cluch on the flywheel the BMW tranny (Getrag 260) is on the flathead and i don't say annything of all the tubble there it was with everything before the motor package was in the frame. ( there was lot of them) The blown flathed installed in the frame The new engine monts had to small holes so they need to be drilled up Time for make the the euqal lengt headers I have done the pipes earlier see earlier in the thread We tack weld them in the car A pic of the passenger side The driver side Both sides cut to same length From a diffrent angle My sister son Andreas are welding the pipes together in the colector area befor wr take them out from the fram Out and ready to ready weld them And this was all from me today acc. the update /Stefan
Stefan, nice update, engine looks great setting in frame. Those headers are over the top, super nice looking...Jim
Thanks for the comment I have worked with my shoebox and the parts i have worked with was the headers to the flathead I have mad pyramids of 42 mm pipes and weld them inside the collector (the focus were on the griders insted of the collector) the outside of the colector is now welded on the headers an look in the collector as you see ther's a pyramid in the middel of the collector the other sides collector it was necesarry to make a new oil pie to the oil filter The new oil pipe and i did it on first try the headers back in the frame Maybe shall i do the exhaust system somthing like this with x-pipe /Stefan
Thanks for the comments update: I have worked with the exhaust system. Here have laid the pipes that should be the x-pipes on wood pices and made some sheet metal parts to fill out with when cut holes in the pipes The pipes are here tack welded The x-pipe in place in the frame and rhe mufflers are in place too The pipes are hanged with 30mm M8 rubber dampers, the x-pipe have 2 hanged in the frame and the 2 to the mufflers are hanged in the old emerdgency brake cable holders Next everfing shall down and thats not are welded shall be welded and the x-pipe and the headers shall be pickeled /Stefan
Thanks for the coment Update but not from today we in sweden are not celbrating thanks giving The headers and x-pipe have been pickeled the headers are on place with gaskets and hope fully not need to be removed before start of the engine. The x-pipe are in place with the mufflers the rear part of the exhuast stystem shall i do when the body are on place so it fitts good The parts for the clutch release transmision need some changes to fit with the headers I cut the old part betvine the shaft throu the frame and the gearbox in 2 pieces and weld in a 1 1/2" x 0.065" (38.1mm x 1.65mm(USOD)) pipe in the top of it insted of the bracket in the bottom that hit the headers /Stefan
I've been following you since day one Stefan, and you do not disappoint.. The headers are very cool, cant wait for the video ....
Thanks for all coments I shall post a video with the sound and the car when i have started it up but it would take some time before that in best case to the spring now over to a little up date The clutch pedal and the meckano to the clutch is in place I was afraid it should be to havey to realase the clutch but it were more easy than i suspect Both the brake pedal and the clutch pedal in place I think that i need at last lower them before i place body on the frame /Stefan
Update I have made a pressure pipe to the power stearing it shall to have a new hose insted of the old i have tested with the flang shall be weled and the other end shall be new one to I have fix the emedegecy brake cable it is made of the old one and some new made hooks the cable locks are made of 10x1 mm pipe Here is the wheel to the speedometer And here is the sensor in place with it's new bracket /Stefan
Little update!!!!! The old Volvo 140 tank need get ridd of the old under coating After some work looks it good I have started to scrape the coating with hot air gun and a scrape After that cleaned i it with solvents /Stefan
Thanks more update the bottom of the body have get some coating (biltema tröskelskyddsmassa 362414) The new pressure line to the power steering is ready and in place and now is that's near for the big lift /Stefan
The weather was nice for to be in December and the frame is out on is own wheel for the fist time Now have it change direction with engine in south insted of north With enought with peopel it is easy to take down the body Me and my sister lool on the body now down on the floor more or less Now lift we the body and move it. down down down down down Out. On the pic you can see me and my sisterson An now we land the body on the frame from a outher view Her's body in place on the frame seen from the front Seen from south east And back in doors in the garage work shop in the big barn /Stefan
Thanks It have happen a lot with the shoebox since i bought it and maybe a supriceing result and now shall go to the garage to srcew body to the frame /Stefan
Outstanding! Looking great! "Pickeled"? They look painted, maybe powder-coated, but pickeled? They look great.
Thanks all for your comnents The headers are in AISI 316L/1.4404 (stainless steel acid proff) Pickeled is when stainless steel or something are put in a acid bath so all coloring after welding is removed and the weld can be full stainless and passivated Little update I have screw the body to the frame I begin with to long screws so i can lift in the body little so all screws can be fitted And then all screw was fitted i switch them to right length I have use M10 insted of 3/8 UNF so all the threads in the fram is rethreded with M10 M10 is mutch cheaper (i can get them for free and even with out that get them for free) and mutch easier to get in all cases Her's some parts to the ventilation in the engine bay that need some love! Have someone a tip of some fan motor + wheel that fit without big modifications from newer car that are common on the junk yard in sweden (EU/Japan cars 10 to 25 years old) /Stefan
I have a fan motor from a mid-70's Ford Econoline on my shoebox . It was cheap to buy new , bolted right up , was 12volt & spun the right direction . It has the right sized shaft , so the stock "squirrell cage" fan fits right onto it .