I like the creativeness in this build, great thought put in. However, not to be the dick. I question every weld on it, not really sound, no prep, voids, cold welds, lookks very amatuer built.
the specal with weld is that i do everything in AISI 304 thats little more tricky get float and i spot evry thing up becase of the risk of shinking in the welds SS shrink more than farmer plate /Stefan
what? I fail to see how a36 mild steel turned into 304 stainless steel. Yes stainless is "trickier" than welding mild. But a stainless weld does not shrink. Stainless steel easily warps, the weld stays the same just creates a black soot around the weld, which I do not see in these pictures. I wouldnt raise an eye brow, but this holds your brake booster dude. Should grind it down, remove the bracket and rust on the frame until its shiney clean steel then re-weld a bit hotter and solid. Just advice you dont have to use if you wish. [/COLOR]
Oh Fab, you're being a dick alright. Don't they teach manners in Michigan? He's not building a nuclear reactor here. You can PM Stefan if you have concerns for his safety, no need to call him out in public. I, for one, believe this car will run just fine. Go Stefan!!
sound like my wife lol, my comments will not be seen by page 100 of "damn thats great work there" anyways.
Thanks all I have weld in a new "footstand" It is made so it's possible to open the lid in the floor to the master cylinder but it will not be easy with the seat and mat in the car /Stefan
Stefan, my master cylinder is also under my floor. I have to remove a few items to get to the cover. I use a "turkey baster" to add fluid to the cylinder if necessary. At the start of each season I check my fluid to make sure its OK. If there are no leaks, I don't think you will need to check that often....Jim
Thanks for the coments I think to put the flathead together as next work on the shoebox It was nesarry to modefy a biltema engine stand That is made that maybe a euro or japan engine is poseble to put in it so i made longer arms i have one more engine stand but it's ocopide With a 455 olds engine rebbuild thats waiting for some parts that was wrong from supplier /Stefan
Out with the flathead from the shoebox It's time for engine build I have begin with the scat 4 1/8" stroker crank next step will be to assemble the pistons assys. That shall i do in another localtion /Stefan
The 455 is from my Olds cutlass sports coupe It need a rebuild after a oil leak from the oil filter So i think to fix little more hp in it too He's the olds togher with my Desoto /Stefan
thanks for the coment I were out and assemble the piston assys The piston is 3 5/16" forged Ross piston so the blown flathead will a 284" big /Stefan
More update Now it's time for assemble the valve train The cam and the cam gears ar on place The cam is isky #88 The spring and tapets are ready to put in the flathead I assemble the valve assy. some valves are ready to lock down in the block /Stefan
OH yeah, Stefan..........here it comes. One day closer to DRIVING your car. Nice work on the olds. Those heads work great.....specs on the olds? I don't care if it's OT. I'm a gear head! I've told you this many times. Once more, you truly are a talented dude.
Her's some of the specs on the olds 455 +.020 7" H-beam conecting rods Fordge pistons with 3.98 cc valve relife Edelbrocks Head Comp Roller cam XR276HR Harland Sharp 1.7 roller rockers SS Headers L69 tri power intake mainfold with 3 Rochester 2GC connected to TH 2004R tranny /Stefan
Over to the Shoebox and the flathead build I have made a tool to move the valve steerings. So now can i assembel the valve train /Stefan
Thanks for the coment The new home made tool was verry useful I have adjust all the valves and now time to degree tha camshaft I cam was not in right place so i hve to file the holes in the upper cam gear so the cam will match the came cards opening times /Stefan
The Jalopy Journal
