The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by Brentphx, Aug 13, 2014.
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Thanks brentphx. I'm still around and making slow progress with my 52 Vic. I'll post more pics soon
Got the interior gutted out a while back and cleaned the shell out . Retired entire car with an ez wiring harness. Very nice people and helpful with installation questions . Also got the dash disassembled , sanded and painted
Nothing of note... We were moving so all my extra $ went towards closing. I didn't get a 4car, but at least I got to have a split 3 car garage again. She gets her own room.
It's been 115+ here pretty regularly (not complaining, I did choose to stay here afterall) so that kinda keeps us inside did a few months. Aside from driving to the new place, she's been ignored since it got hot! Another 6 weeks or so and I'll get back on it. First project is to lower!!
Can't wait to see how the aerostar/St. Louis setup looks, that's what I eventually plan to do when I get mine! Looking great so far!
Took advantage of the first nice evening of the year, damn mosquitoes, and took a closer look at my leak. Almost looks like it's dripping from the rebuilt tranny, fingers crossed that it's not.
After pulling the carpet back, the mc is very low almost empty. Now I feel better about ordering a new mc, lines, and a flare tool. I've fought cheap flaring tools one too many times, with the stupid butterflies you work by hand, broke down and bought my own Eastwood pro tool.
Working on it for a few minutes at a time, hopefully I'll have time to get the aux fuel pump plumbed in and get the lowering springs in before the Goodguys show in a month.
Before I pull the old lines off, anyone have an easy source for the coils that go over the brake line to protect them from abrasion? I know that I want something in their place where it bends around the frame and right there on the rear would be a good idea too. Worst case I'll use stainless wire, but I figure someone sells these right?
Edit: Scratch that, turns out amazon can have them here Mon. If amazon has them then the parts store should too. I'll see how it feels before bending the lines.
As seen here:
OK, I need to take a step back before I do something stupid. I am ready to drop the Master Cylinder down and put the new shoebox-central stock mc in place. I have the clutch pedal disconnected, have the brake lines disconnected/cut away, disconnected the clutch linkage from the tranny and swung it out of the way. I need to pull the pedal shaft out of the MC so that it will drop out of the mounting bracket, correct? The shaft hits the tranny, I can't get it all the way out.
I took a few pics so that I could come inside and stop to think/review the situation. I could remove the grease fitting, that'd give me 1/2". It may be what I need... So, who has gotten the MC out without dropping the tranny.
What am I doing wrong?? Green bible says 'remove MC' with no further description. If the answer is pull transmission, I'm burning the garage down lol. This is too small of a job to require that much
Hey Brent, I have mine currently out. I'll look at it when I get home. I seem to remember that once you have the bolts holding the master to the frame off, the master drops with the shaft slightly out enough to clear the frame.
Thanks! That'd be a huge help. That's what I thought too, but it pivots on that point even with the shaft mostly out. Feels like it's pivoting on the bracket. I can push it up towards floorboard a bit, so perhaps it's just the pedal through the floor keeping it up there?
Sorry, got called away as soon as I made it home, I'll check it first thing tomorrow
It's been a few years since I've pulled one. I can't remember the process exactly, but I do know you do not need to pull the trans.
Sounds like you've already got a new stock single reservoir MC to go back in. Before you install it you might think about a dual reservoir one instead. It's a super easy swap and a lot safer.
It's on my to-do's and I'd really prefer dual, but we recently moved and I don't have 220 avail to weld to the xmember. I have marked this up as upkeep and will spend the cash again on the dual kit when I get the 220 pulled. I just didn't want the car to be dry docked without brakes until I can budget the 220 and the upgrade kit!! That will be through the driving season here at least!!
I think once you remove the pedal arm, you should be able to pull it down as an assembly.
This bracket needs to come out together with the master cylinder
It also looks like you still have the pedal arm attached. I think you need to pull the arm off first. Hope this helps.
Aaaaagh! I think that solves my mystery!! Thanks for those pics. With 3" above my nose, I didn't see the 2nd arm going through the frame! I'll get back under and try to slide them both out a bit.
Cool, let me know if you get it!
Thanks again for taking a look on yours! That was a massive help on such a stupid problem. Get outta my car you stupid leaky mc!!
Got the pedal off, cleaned up as well as it'll go with hand brushes, and back on the new mc. Almost time to go pick up some dot-3 and bench bleed... Just gotta run the front hard and soft lines. That part is quick enough!
No problem! Seeing working on yours gets my ass into the garage to keep on mine!
Bench bled the replacement master, got it back up in place and have the new rear lines connected. Still have to run the new front lines, but I have to swap the jack stands to the front before I play that game.
If I have a few while the kids nap today and before trick-or-treat time I'll get the electric fuel pump up in place. Gotta save some energy for tonight though!
With the nose in the air, the rear is a few inches lower. Makes me want to hurry and get the lowering springs in. Looks much better to my eyes!
On a side note, there is a vacuum canister? in the driver's wheel well, the hose goes up along the fresh air vent into the engine bay but is not connected anywhere. I couldn't find it in the shop manual, can anyone name this part??
Your car had a See-Clear accessory windshield washer system installed in it at one time. I still have mine bottle and holder, I wish I could find the nozzle that attached to the windshield center pillar. If you look on top of your cowl, you might see a small hole right in the center below the windshield. Here is a brochure on it:
Well holy sh!t. Lookie there I'll pull up the carpet further tomorrow and see what I find. Here's a cropped pic showing the sprayer, I knew the sprayer was there and wasn't connected... Assumed that it was operated by a vacuum or electric pump that had been removed years ago.
Almost done with the brakes, one last connection on pass front... But... Apparently I have misplaced the distribution block, banjo bolt, and copper washer. I'll look with fresh eyes tomorrow, but anyone know if your average autozone type place would have a replacement? 3/8 20 or 7/16 24? I'll pull the other front bolt if I have to. They aren't the brightest, I just had to argue that they did indeed carry 3/16 brake fittings. Shock and awe I was right once I dug through their store.
If you are working on the passenger front, there is no distribution block. It is a direct connection. Here's a picture.
Omg, you're saving my sanity on this. I took pictures of most steps as a reminder for myself... but none of that side, guess I figured it'd be self explanatory. I have done everything aside from moving everything out of the garage to find the bolt. I've been trying to find it for 2 days, even went to Napa. Turns out they can't get any old banjo bolts btw, they only have metric caliper banjos in their books.
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