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Projects My new ride

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by grdra1, Jul 9, 2018.

  1. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 297

    grdra1
    Member

    Thanks Amish, unsure of tank capacity as yet to test and measure, I decided to make tank as big as possible due to having no trunk space anyway - may as well fill it up with something useful. A few pics of recent progress, fabricated and welded in new firewall and mocked up dash panel again. Glen P1011301.JPG P1011309.JPG P1011323.JPG P1011326.JPG P1011338.JPG P1011339.JPG P1011341.JPG P1011342.JPG P1011345.JPG P1011346.JPG
     
  2. AmishMike
    Joined: Mar 27, 2014
    Posts: 464

    AmishMike
    Member

    Sorry for stupid question anyway u do liters & metric. I have odd shape tank to build & google says 10 gallons equals 2310 cubic inches which would be about 20 inch by 20 inch and only 6 inches deep & that seems small compared to some tanks out of factory cars. Your tank looks huge but very nice build job. 10 gallons of any fluid has to take up same space - RIGHT???
     
  3. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 297

    grdra1
    Member

    A few pics of recent progress, sanded, puttied and primed firewall - still have to fix a few little flaws but happy so far. My retro knobs arrived also, just need to work out best look, large knob is a shifter knob that I plan to modify by machining / drilling out and mount ignition key in centre. Glen P1010005.JPG P1010011.JPG P1010010.JPG P1010003.JPG P1010004.JPG P1010006.JPG P1010007.JPG
     
  4. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 297

    grdra1
    Member

    Painted firewall recently, decided to go with the white instead of the original black. Also machined the retro gear knob to accept ignition key, check out pics. Glen P1010027.JPG P1010029.JPG P1010031.JPG P1010034.JPG P1010035.JPG P1010036.JPG
     
  5. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 297

    grdra1
    Member

    Detailed engine recently, a few pics. Glen P1010037.JPG P1010039.JPG P1010048.JPG P1010049.JPG
     
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  6. whitewallwilly
    Joined: Apr 2, 2012
    Posts: 201

    whitewallwilly
    Member

    biggeorge and loudbang like this.
  7. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 297

    grdra1
    Member

    Thank you Whitewallwilly for the kind comments, seeing the quality of your build makes the comments even more special to me. A few pics of recent progress ( not really progress but future plans ). I pushed car outside to look at it from a far to determine if I have done the right thing - painting engine gold, I feel it looks good up against the white firewall. I also plan to make spacers ( approx 5/8 inch thick - may even drill spacers for nitrous ) for the carbs using of cuts from the alloy plate used for the 409 rocker cover adapters. Glen P1010052.JPG P1010055.JPG P1010064.JPG P1010062.JPG P1010065.JPG
     
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2019
    catdad49, biggeorge, Stogy and 2 others like this.
  8. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 297

    grdra1
    Member

    Finished spacers for carbys recently, machined 1/8 of rear one to allow for throttle linkage plate. Now all carbs sit the same height, a few pics. Glen P1010066.JPG P1010067.JPG P1010068.JPG P1010069.JPG P1010070.JPG
     
  9. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 297

    grdra1
    Member

    Been busy lately, modified roll cage, taking the x out to create more leg room buy allowing seat to go further back, also welded on seat belt mounts and started fabricating my cycle guards, check out pics. Glen P1010085.JPG P1010086.JPG P1010088.JPG P1010089.JPG P1010093.JPG P1010105.JPG P1010108.JPG P1010116.JPG P1010117.JPG P1010118.JPG
     
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  10. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 297

    grdra1
    Member

    Been busy lately , pulled body off to finish weld and paint chassis, I need to mount front panhard bar, weld new heavy duty ends on the front bones for engineer compliance and remount upper four links with more angle. A few pics including roll cage assembly. Glen P1010122.JPG P1010124.JPG P1010125.JPG P1010128.JPG P1010127.JPG P1010129.JPG
     
  11. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 16,885

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Fun Times...enjoying Your journey in Hotrod...Great progress @grdra1
     
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  12. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 297

    grdra1
    Member

    Today I started fabricating the chassis tabs for the new bone ends, taper is slightly larger than the original ones, also finished my front shock mounts. Glen P1010131.JPG P1010136.JPG P1010138.JPG P1010137.JPG P1010140.JPG P1010141.JPG P1010142.JPG P1010143.JPG P1010131.JPG P1010136.JPG P1010138.JPG P1010137.JPG P1010140.JPG P1010141.JPG P1010142.JPG P1010143.JPG
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2019
  13. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 297

    grdra1
    Member

    Dont no why double pics, sorry about that
     
  14. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 297

    grdra1
    Member

    Finished chassis tabs recently, next job is to section K member for tail shaft clearance, a few pics. Glen P1010145.JPG P1010146.JPG P1010148.JPG P1010151.JPG P1010154.JPG
     
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  15. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 297

    grdra1
    Member

    Finished K member today, now have 5/8 inch more tail shaft clearance. Glen P1010155.JPG P1010157.JPG P1010159.JPG P1010164.JPG
     
  16. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 30,520

    loudbang
    Member

    With those changes does it have to be re-engineered?
     
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  17. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 297

    grdra1
    Member

    Loudbang my engineer has looked at the car on one previous occasion and liked the way Im building this car, I need to build to the street rod guidelines. Although I have deviated a little, my engineer has a common sense approach and I feel this mod should be ok as I have plated area with 5mm plate, it is probably stronger now than before. Glen
     
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  18. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 297

    grdra1
    Member

    Finished front pan-hard bar recently, also purchased a new engine mount kit as the right hand engine chassis mount needed replacing. Decided to make my own chassis mounts, a few pics Glen P1010179.JPG P1010174.JPG P1010182.JPG P1010185.JPG P1010187.JPG P1010194.JPG P1010198.JPG P1010200.JPG P1010201.JPG
     
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  19. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 297

    grdra1
    Member

    Started remounting rear upper 4 link mounts recently, removed old brackets, cut bars and removed welded bungs. welded some braces to hold diff in position - at approximate ride height. A few pics. Glen P1010202.JPG P1010205.JPG P1010207.JPG P1010208.JPG P1010212.JPG
     
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  20. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 297

    grdra1
    Member

    I have started re-mounting 4 link this week, in order to keep upper bars a reasonable length I needed to section the chassis rail. My upper bars will be about 65% length of lower bars and about 30- 32 degree angled, I have decided to install another crossmember to support fuel tank and provide added strength due to the sectioned chassis and K member for tail shaft clearance, I will also tie this crossmember to existing K member with 3/16 plate ( may be overkill but will keep engineer happy ) a few pics including before and after of upper bar triangulation - last pic is only mock up and will be more angled by approx 4 degrees than pictured. Glen P1010217.JPG P1010218.JPG P1010220.JPG P7170536.JPG P1010226.JPG
     
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  21. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 297

    grdra1
    Member

    4 link nearly finished, ended up making 3 mounts before I got it right. Upper bars are about 60% length of lower bars and about 31 degrees angled - this is all I could achieve but will do the job, also welded in new cross member. Next job is to finish of some small welds and grind / prepare chassis for paint, a few pics. Glen P1010231.JPG P1010234.JPG P1010262.JPG P1010265.JPG P1010277.JPG P1010279.JPG P1010282.JPG P1010283.JPG P1010286.JPG
     
  22. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 297

    grdra1
    Member

    Started preparing chassis for paint, used paint stripper to strip of powder coat which worked really well, not much to go before paint. Painted front axle and front end bits with por15 today, happy with results so far. Glen P1010343.JPG P1010345.JPG P1010346.JPG P1010347.JPG
     
  23. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 297

    grdra1
    Member

    Finished painting chassis finally, 3 coats of por15 followed by 1 x tie coat then 2 coats of 2 pack black satin finish. Long and quite expensive process - would probably do it different next time but happy with overall result. Also mounted the body for the final time, a few pics. Glen P1010412.JPG P1010413.JPG P1010422.JPG
     
  24. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 297

    grdra1
    Member

    Mounted battery under dash recently, a few pics. Glen P1010378.JPG P1010386.JPG P1010388.JPG P1010435.JPG P1010430.JPG P1010439.JPG P1010440.JPG P1010441.JPG
     
  25. 3banjos
    Joined: May 24, 2008
    Posts: 471

    3banjos
    Member
    from NZ

    Not to kick your handy work Glen, but you may be required to have a fully enclosed battery box because you have it inside your cab. Pay to ask your certifier.
     
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  26. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 297

    grdra1
    Member

    3banjos, thanks for your comment, I have done my research on battery type and placement, I chose the Odyssey PC925 as it is a dry cell unit that's powerful and small. Glen

    National Guidelines for the Construction and Modification of Street Rods in Australia 54 Second Edition November 2013. 8.5.1 Batteries must be secured and placed in a container or tray suitable for the purpose of holding a battery. Wet-type batteries must be positioned outside the passenger compartment unless it is in an enclosure that is vented to the outside of the passenger compartment, or is a fully sealed typed. A dry type battery may be installed inside the passenger compartment.
     
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  27. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 297

    grdra1
    Member

    I recently machined up some alloy and purchased a 30mm bar to check and straighten my diff housing, I had to make some stands so I could use my press. I also modified the housing where the shocks mount, painted assembly and added a dummy quick change cover. I pulled sump and intake of engine to check it over as its been nearly 2 years since it last ran - all looks ok, A few pics, Glen P1010485.JPG P1010491.JPG P1010486.JPG P1010498.JPG P1010505.JPG
     
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  28. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 297

    grdra1
    Member

    I am currently on 8 weeks leave from work ( long service leave ) but due to this fucking virus I cannot go any where, I was planning on driving around Australia - but now I have to work on my hotrod. Wife not happy but I will grin and bear it. Today I set up front end and mounted brake booster - tomorrow I will add brake lines and maybe rebuild diff center, a few pics. Glen P1010512.JPG P1010513.JPG P1010514.JPG
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2020
  29. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 297

    grdra1
    Member

    A few pics of recent progress, made some front guard mounts / painted guards, rebuilt diff centre, mounted rear brakes and set up hand brake. Today I started making rear guard mounts. Glen P1010515.JPG P1010517.JPG P1010549.JPG P1010552.JPG P1010553.JPG P1010558.JPG P1010560.JPG P1010562.JPG P1010564.JPG P1010567.JPG P1010568.JPG
     
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  30. grdra1
    Joined: May 20, 2013
    Posts: 297

    grdra1
    Member

    Finished rear guard mounts today, will paint and detail tomorrow. Glen P1010573.JPG P1010580.JPG P1010581.JPG P1010582.JPG
     
    Vic Walter, Stogy, Joe Lemay and 2 others like this.

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