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Projects My New "59" Edsel Ranger.

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by chrisg_ky, Apr 27, 2016.

  1. chrisg_ky
    Joined: Oct 24, 2011
    Posts: 46

    chrisg_ky
    Member

    Gonna try some kroil first and then if that won't work. I will take it to Frailey's machine shop.

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  2. chrisg_ky
    Joined: Oct 24, 2011
    Posts: 46

    chrisg_ky
    Member

    Rad is missing altogether. Thx

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  3. chrisg_ky
    Joined: Oct 24, 2011
    Posts: 46

    chrisg_ky
    Member

    Thx

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  4. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,084

    squirrel
    Member

    You might be looking for an engine before you need to worry about a radiator...
     
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  5. chrisg_ky
    Joined: Oct 24, 2011
    Posts: 46

    chrisg_ky
    Member

    Yeah, I was thinking that.

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  6. MyCrustyVW
    Joined: Mar 16, 2015
    Posts: 31

    MyCrustyVW
    Member

    Great Edsel! I had a 58 and it was a nightmare but the guys at the Edsel Restoration and Preservation Group on Facebook are amazing and a very helpful group! If you are on Facebook look them up!
     
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  7. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,702

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    From the looks of your valve train I would expect the cam and lifters to look the same. My 2ct. worth I pull it and tear it down to see if it was saveable. Looks like a good canadate to put a late model 302 and AOD in and come out cheaper.
     
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  8. Pull the engine out & take it apart. If 2% of that crap made it into the pan, kiss the bearings adios.
     
  9. LostBoy
    Joined: Mar 16, 2016
    Posts: 217

    LostBoy

    I love those cars. Good luck with it! A little pblaster and you'll be up and running in no time. J/k you need to tear that sucker apart. Again awesome car. The coolest styling imo.


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  10. myold88
    Joined: Oct 25, 2010
    Posts: 71

    myold88
    Member
    from ct

    That engine doesn't look too promising. Before you get too deep into this, I suggest you check out the frame for rot. Very common when they sit on the ground for so long. Good luck with your project.
     
  11. chrisg_ky
    Joined: Oct 24, 2011
    Posts: 46

    chrisg_ky
    Member

    Requested to join bit haven't been added yet.

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  12. Jeff Walker
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 498

    Jeff Walker
    Member

    Lots of knowledge on that group but be aware, as the name suggests they are dedicated to originality.
     
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  13. chrisg_ky
    Joined: Oct 24, 2011
    Posts: 46

    chrisg_ky
    Member

    Hooked a battery to it today, head lights worked for about 30sec and went out but the dash lights and tail lights worked sort of. Wiper motor just buzzed and nothing from the blower motor. Pulled the hood from the corsair because the other one folds over when you shut the hood. Also going to take the brake booster, headliner, armrest, glove box insert and other odds and ends. Then I soaked the valve train in pb blaster and the cylinders. After that I poured kerosene in the oil spout to let it seep In to the crank and rod bearings. I'm in no big hurry as I got alot of other stuff I can do before I worry about driving it. I Did try to bump the starter once but I think the seloniod might be shot. Guess I will give it a tap with a hammer later and see what happens.
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

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  14. chrisg_ky
    Joined: Oct 24, 2011
    Posts: 46

    chrisg_ky
    Member

    Where do those big edsel lights in my trunk go?

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  15. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,084

    squirrel
    Member

    they are back up lights, off a 58. They don't fit a 59.

    [​IMG]
     
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  16. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 9,193

    manyolcars

    chrisg, its not a good idea to start and run this engine. Its not even a good idea to use the starter to make the engine spin. It will damage the engine, and grind unlubricated grit into your parts.. The best and only good thing to do is pull the engine, disassemble it, clean and inspect the parts then reassemble it with new rings, bearing gaskets, etc. That way you will know for a fact that everything is good and you can expect years of good service.
     
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  17. chrisg_ky
    Joined: Oct 24, 2011
    Posts: 46

    chrisg_ky
    Member

    Yea, that's what I was thinking when I first saw the valves. Well at least the plaster should make it easier to tear down if I rebuild it.

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  18. chrisg_ky
    Joined: Oct 24, 2011
    Posts: 46

    chrisg_ky
    Member

    Ok crazy question. Would it be positive to bolt a chevy 250 straight 6 in place of the 361? I'm sure it would need an adapter lol.

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  19. Try Butch's Cool Stuff (also an alliance vendor) has the SBC to '57-59 Ford swap kit, so that would be a start. I made my own mounts for my '59 Ford and a SBC.

    But the bugaboo with that swap is the oil pan. An early Chevy II 230 pan with the front sump would work, but only with a 230, not sure if they put a 250 into an early Chevy II.

    I doubt a transmission adapter exists, try Butch again. Also try Trans Dapt.
     
    Last edited: May 2, 2016
  20. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,084

    squirrel
    Member

    how about a later Ford engine, like a 302 (5.0 L)?
     
  21. Don't have a horse in this race as I'm a chevy guy, but... I vote for a Ford in yer Edsel. Even I'm a little burned out on sbc's in everything; AND... I can't shake the vision of a Ford engine in a '59 Biscayne/Belair 2dr sedan I saw at a local show years ago. I assume some of the flag wavin' Ford fans would feel the same...
     
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  22. chrisg_ky
    Joined: Oct 24, 2011
    Posts: 46

    chrisg_ky
    Member

    Lol I just have the 250 handy for another project but I guess I will go engine shopping. See if I can find that 302 to drop in it.

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  23. chrisg_ky
    Joined: Oct 24, 2011
    Posts: 46

    chrisg_ky
    Member

    I am chevy guy as well. Drove past these cars for the last ten years and decided to save them. Love the classics.

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  24. I'm following a couple of Edsels that are for sale locally. I believe both have the 223 6-banger and one is a stick.
     
  25. MARKDTN
    Joined: Feb 16, 2016
    Posts: 147

    MARKDTN

    Wouldn't it be easier to find an FE engine and swap the tin? Surely there are some 360 or 390 trucks still running around somewhere.
     
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  26. That would be my choice... Second choice would be a 351W, a lot more torque compared to a 302 and that Edsel ain't exactly light... LOL.
     
  27. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,084

    squirrel
    Member

    Think about the odds of finding a Ford engine that's in good running condition...FE might be a bit hard to find, same with a 351W...but yeah, if you can find one, that would be better.
     
  28. Finding a good, running FE these days will be a stretch.... but Ford used the 351W in trucks until '96, so those are out there; I see them pretty regularly on CL locally. Of course, these are all EFI truck motors so some additional parts are needed (intake/carb, distributor, oil pan and front cover) to convert them but none of this is particularly hard to find...
     
  29. I looked for Ford engines when I was deciding what to do on the Ford. Looked at one supposed BOSS 351, but it was incomplete and had been outside open and exposed for years. There were really none in the local 'yards that didn't need a rebuild. 99% of the engines they save are for late cars, nothing older than a 1995. Then I'd need all the clutch, bellhousing parts, pulleys, brackets and so on.

    I had the 350 Chevy from an old stock car, figured I'd get by with a simple freshening up (yeah... right...). I had a donor clutch, bellhousing and shifter, some yokes too. So the die was cast. All I needed was a Muncie, which I found here at a good price including shipping. Long story made short, the only OG parts in the engine are the block and crank, this includes all hardware, external and internal with the exception of 3 alternator bolts.

    It got out of hand, but I'm happy with it all. My original plan was for a 351C and top loader 4-speed.
     
  30. Fortunately a variety of front sump pans are available for Fords. I'm not 100% sure on the 429/460.

    My swap, the only viable option was an early Chevy II pan for a V8. I still had to drill and tap a hole (on a freshly assembled short block...) to secure the oil pick up tube. I saw one other guy who did one, with a rear sump pan... what an abortion. There were Moroso pans, rear sump with a centerlink relief. But my inner tie rods had to pass through the notch, which was a crap shoot.
     

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