I was looking for a low cost way to lower the front without cutting coils too much. Out of the blue I came up with this idea. It lowers the front about 2,5" without touching anything else. Camber and caster seems to be ok. So, what do you think? Sorry for the low quality of the pics...
Im guessing you cut the lower control arm almost in half and bent it. I can promise you the camber and caster and toe are all out, you have moved the lower piviot inwords and upwords. Its been done before but not by bending it, but by cutting the entire lower mount off and Z ing it up then bracing it ALOT. this way you would only move the lower mount upword not inword. There are several threds on here about it. If you plan to run what you have shown in these pics PLEASE plate both sides of the A-arm at least. MrC.
oh boy. Yeah, not good. i would suggest a search for stepped lower control arms here on the HAMB. there are a few threads on the subject and the correct way to do it.
Well, naturally it alters the camber, but not more than you can adjust the normal way. And I can always make a new adjuster (what is it called in english?) If my calculations and measurements are correct (or even close) it should work. This pair of lower A-arms is a spare pair, so I´m gonna go on and try it anyway. If it works I´m very happy. If not, so what. And yes, I will toughen it up before testdrive...
Yes we do. But they are not cheap, and not easy to find. Jag parts seems to be even more expensive than parts for these old cars.
All things being considered, I would go with cutting the coils before I used this method. It appears that the advantage with cutting the coils is maintaining the integrity/strength of the stock suspension (minus suspension travel). Both ways will throw your geometry out of tolerance. Admirable creative thinking, let us know how the experiment goes!
I lowered my front by stepping the A-Arms. This lowered the front about 2 1/2". I also cut the springs to lower the front another 2 1/2". From the first picture it looks to me that you've moved the outer pivot out to much. The upper doesn't have enough adjustment to move the upper inner mount out enough to get the proper camber. After looking at the picture Mr. C may be correct in saying it moved in and up, in an arc. I was looking at it upside down and backwards. I still think there may not be enough adjustment in the uppers regardless of which way the outer moved. Straight up would be the best way.
Um well you asked what we think, so I think you should throw that idea and arms away and cut the coils.
fuckem, try it. if it doesnt work, say hey guys I tried this and it didn't work if it does say, hey negative ninnys, it worked. either way as long as what youre doing is safe from a structural stand point, what does it hurt to try.
I guess if the measurement from the rear shaft is the same as it was when you started it wouldnt be much different then stepping the arms the way others have done. But I will say from the pics it looks like it would be closer to that shaft and you wouldnt be able to get that much adjustment out of the top to compensate. Being that the cut doesnt go all the way through the arm I would almost bet the arc travel did make it closer. Kudos though for trying something different!
My thought exactly If it arcs too much it can´t be more than few millimeters. If that happens I can always cut the arm and weld it again further out (if you get what I´m trying to say). Thanks to you too Meddler1. I´ve always liked to find my own way. Good or bad... I´ll let you know how this turns out.
i wouldnt call this a hack job at all. creative thinking is great. though the up and in theory is correct in my head, i would try it anyway, you went that far, why not. i have seen much, much worse!!! report back!
When a guy cuts the coils and drops the front too much, he ususally ends up with negative camber. This method will eliminate a little of that negative camber. I say it might work. Bolt it together and see if your alignment guy can get it within specs.
If you knew where your bottom a-arm was going to sit , with the weight of the car on it, you could use that measurement and set up your bottom a-arm in a mocked up correct position. Then leave the cut loose, bolt your uprights back on, adjust your top a-arm in the neutral position, then push the end you cut in or out until the wheel is spindle is sticking out nice and straight, use something to measure it with. Then you have it about right. I bet it will work out, but box it , plate it, reinforce it.
You could get a bottom a-arm measurement from somebody on here that hasn't cut there coils yet on their car. Find to good points to measure. You always need stuff like this after the car is apart!lol.
Familiar concept! I've 'A-Framed' cars for years. Common practice was to drop the outer end of the lower control arm, by shackling it at the trunnion bolts. (lower 'ball joints' on later than '53-'54 models) 2" was the norm, some guys went 2-1/2", but scrub line rule was just then being enforced. (I didn't get that low for safety reasons) The method lowered the car more efficiently than heated or cut coils, retained stock ride. However, the 'shackling' method I mentioned above relocated the trunnion bolt inboard while dropping it, settling within adjustment extremes. (your 'wedge' moves the lower 'outboard', resulting in MORE negative camber when in the lower position) If the car is still apart, simply hang the control arm and spindle on the frame, (no spring) and jack the car down to its approximate guessed ride height. Put the hub on with bearings, snug nut, and measure with an angle finder. Within 1 degree should be adjustable: Move the adjuster cam and check it. I'm sure you'll have to move the trunnion bores closer to the inboard.
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