Projects My GN Cycle Car tribute build

Piecework that's the ticket...the soul remains...you're on a roll...speaking of rolling hows the overhead?

 

Yep, on a roll now. Feel like a kid who just opened his Christmas gift and can’t stop thinking about it. Haven’t tried the overhead since I mounted the engine on the stand, but it will see some good use in the next month.

 

Finished blasting the fuel pump assembly. Decided to add brass screws to give it more of a Edwardian prewar look. Also picked up some “real” brass compression fittings and 3/16” Cu-Ni tubing for the vacuum lines. Because the intake was tapped with two 1/8” NPT holes, I’ll use them and join them with the 3/16” tubing and run it back to the dash to a vintage vacuum gage (yet to be discovered) Lol! I’ll use the other two tapped holes to run a vacuum line to the vacuum “brake” on the Ford helmet dizzy. I’m a bit worried about gaps between the fuel pump base and manifold mounting surfaces, and the upper and middle carb sections. I think I’ll just use some high-heat clear on the fuel pump and carb to maintain the darker as-cast finishes.

 

Dropped by the alternator shop to see when my stuff would be ready and was very surprised it was already done! I had just told them on Monday I wanted to leave them at 6V. Awesome local shop!

 

...Ho, Ho, Ho Loooking good...even spy some Made in Canada...NORS...

 

Ordered my carb filter hsg and breather cap from Speedway. Not my first choice, but I need to order parts ASAP.






Also finished up the last of my blasting using glass bead. Will switch to crushed glass for the steel parts starting with my oil pan assuming it fits.

Oil gallery splash shields.


Pizza anyone? Lol!
Misc hardware from the carbs.

 

Also found this gem locally on kijiji.


Got the idea after coming across this pic on the interweeb last year.


Can actually use it to oil the dist shaft. Lol!

 

Ole Squeaky will be happy as the Tinman...you got the deluxe version...did it contain any period oil...I mean it's a close second to Vintage Tire air and of course barn find dirt...

Ziggster the finished parts look awesome...

 

Thanks Stogy. Sometimes I have to put aside the engineer in me as “perfection is the enemy of good enough”. Lol!
Don’t think there was any vintage air in the stuff I picked up a couple years ago. Haha!



There was of course a lot of dirt and even some vegetation in my carbs . Sorry but no pics of that.

 

Merry Christmas! Because we are once again under the Covid-19 lockdown, and essentially no one can visit, I’ve decided to carry-on with my projectz. Seems like I’m running a small production fscility. Dissassembly, inspection, clean, paint, etc. I’ve focused in on the carb rebuild, and I have come to the conclusion that I’ll buy all new internal fuel passage parts. Not sure what they are all called, but after some acid dipping, and overnight in my vivratory tumbler filled with walnut shells, I feel the parts are not up to new or rebuild standards. I’m slso missing several parts from the carb kit I inherited like jets and correct style power valve (mine has the very slight radiused shoulder that prevents the gasket from seating properly). Also, it likely doesn’t have the correct vacuum rating. I believe standard fir sea level is 7.5, and running my Isky 1007B cam will likely require perhaps a 6.5. Any thoughts ln this would be much appreciated.

Misc parts after “cleaning”.





To make matters worse I just noticed this nice handy hole that someone had drilled into the housing after removing the choke plate.



Parts production facility...







Oil dipped head bolts after heating up in oven to 500F for 30 mins. Watched a vid and guy said it should be prevent rusting. We’ll see...Lol!

 

Welding tip cleaners make for good passage cleaners...

The power valves are a piece of cake for any local machinest you may know...that's all the suppliers of these perhaps later model subbed parts do and it's actually nice to have options. I think the fella that rebuilt my carbs recently did that...

It's a great carb and not a real holy grail in the pricing department and many parts are available thankfully.

They are apparently very simple in design as described by ones in the know...

I took a sizable new new mastercraft slot/flat and ground off the flared sides till it fit through the 2 jet access plug holes on the bowl to easily and accurately remove the jets...I was damn proud of that...

I checked the fit of the slot to a loose uninstalled jet prior to reworking the driver as you have to have a good fit to preserve jet integrity...

 

Helmet dizzy cap retainers after “blueing”. They were nice and shiny before.

 

Yep @Stogy, I have a seized up jet in one of my other carb bodies. One came out no problem, the other was a different story. I didn’t help matters though, and should have done the screwdriver trick first. I’ve set it aside for now, but I still want to get it out later.

The offending little bugger...

 

One note is even with that power valve surface machined the 2 mating surfaces where the gasket meets both are minimal but the seal is achieved nonetheless.

 

That's an excellent idea. For some reason we are often reluctant to modify a brand new $5 screwdriver to fit expensive hard to replace jets.

For the stuck jet try sanding it then soft soldering a piece of copper tube that fits over it, to turn it.

 

Thanks Beans...
Just spreading the Gospel...it's a big one in the mission statement...all those hex bit things miss the mark...many times nothing beats the old Traditional Offering...Good Leverage with this as well...your soldering suggestion is a great option as well if all else fails...

One of my 2 94 carbs was always raw and wet upon shut off and raw gas smell was evident on certain turns so I removed and disassembled both from the base adjusted the float level to lower the fuel and clean and checked the many channels...put it back together and I believe it helped but perhaps jetting and PV could make help improve the improved so to speak...Ziggster has only one to contend with...







... .324" passes through the I'd of the threaded bores for the plugs...the main shank of the screwdriver is .315" so I carefully keeping heat to a minimum Die Ground the flared area...
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Good advice. I’m hoping the modded screwdriver does the trick.
Disassembled the throttle plates and shaft from the base, cleaned things up, and applied some hi-heat clear. Upon reassembly, I noticed the shaft has a bit of play on the throttle lever linkage end. I also noticed the throttle lever linkage with the ball end had been bent. Damn! I even painted the bugger.
This is becoming a bit tedious. I have another base with a good throttle position plate, but that shaft is corroded solid. I haven’t been able to get it to budge even after a few days of soaking it in some SeaFoam DeepCreep.

The “good” base with the loose shaft and bent throttle lever.


Crusty/rusty base with seized shaft but good lever.

 

I was at a swap a couple years ago now and there was a local Speedster guy that had a couple of 94s for sale...Perhaps I can send one of the CC members an email to see if I can track him down...94s aren't terribly hard to find...

 

Thanks @Stogy for the offer. I’ll let you know how it all this goes later today or tomorrow depending on whether I start blasting my steel parts. My oil pan fits in the cabinet and I was hoping to have that completed yesterday, but with all the carb nonsense it was delayed. I have seen both 94’s and 97’s come up for sale on kijiji, but nothing locally, and prices seem way too high to me for what essentially becomes a complete rebuild. My “good” carb is probably the one I actually paid $50 for last year, but it had its issues as well. I’m still hopeful that I can cob one up from these parts. I checked parts on Vintage Speed, and the parts I mentioned with all the internal passages are just rebuilds, so I’ll probably try to salvage what I can, but I’ll still need to buy stuff.
A close-up of the radius on the power valve and corresponding gap between the seal. This area is under vacuum which makes achieving the seal really important. I wonder how many folks just slap it together and then wonder why things don’t work as they should?

 

After what seemed like an eternity, I managed to finish up getting enough of the good parts together so I could mock up the carb. Also discovered that the throttle plate shaft is worn. Another was also worn, and the third was destroyed as I tried peening the shaft end over the throttle position adjustment plate as it had come loose while trying to remove it from the base. Both were actually a real bugger to get loose, and required a fair bit of heat. I would have preferred a flat gloss, but I’m guessing it will dull over with time. I just hope it dosen’t yellow.

 

You are missing an item on that carb...It is a pump rod that runs from the throttle linkage with the 3 open holes to the pump rod which is resting behind the linkage...You can see it just below the brass choke cable lock on my center carb...there is also a vacuum line opening similar to the carb to the right of my center carb...If you are not using that for a line you may have to block it off...

You may have it and haven't installed it but I noticed that at first glance...The 3 positions are for adjusting that pump operation...

So many types of 94s...



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Good eye @Stogy. Yes, I know it is missing as it too was bent and I couldn’t install it. Nothing is installed either inside the carb. I still need to touch up some of the hardware in the vibratory grinder and perhaps with a wire wheel. What I’ve realized as well is that I’ll need a manual choke cable, and if I wish a hand throttle cable. Haha! Even at my age, I’ve never had a vehicle with a manual choke. More stuff to buy. Lol!

 

This is what I started with...

 

Did a little more mocking up yesterday. See pics below. A lot of work done, but still lots to do. Straightened out a few dings on the breather tube, and painted it same colour as intake. Applied clear coat to fuel pump. Installed a new carb mounting stud as one of the three had been removed and replaced with a 3/8” bolt. Stk size for stud is 5/16”. When I removed the bolt to apply some compressed air to clean things out a bit, the air blew straight into the intake! Not good. I checked last week, and the helicoil was too small in diameter for the hole made by the 3/8” bomt. Ended up just applying a bit of JB Weld to stud threads. Seems to be good, but it dried slightly crooked. As I reinstalled carb, I started to tighten all three nuts, and noticed one nut was starting to spin. I knew threads might be iffy, but now I know that stud will need to be replaced as well. Damn. I’ll likely need to heat the intake up again, destroying my paint job. That sucks. Will probably do both remaining studs now so all three are new. Did some maintenance on my blast cabinet, and switched over to crushed glass media. Started on the remote oil filter housing lid, however it seems bits of glass are imbedded in the surface. If true, not good, as I did the inside surface. Also did a bit of research on the interweeb about embedded crushed glass in steel, but couldn’t find anything. Also did the removeable clutch inspection cover which covers an opening between the cast-in bell hsg on the block and oil pan. Actually took a while, and the corrosion is pretty bad in sone spots, but I’m sure I purchased one in better condition a while back, but of course I have no idea where it is. Lol! Also ordered a bunch of parts for my carb from Vintage Speed down in Florida. Will probably start to do a partial rebuild on a second I have as I really would like a dual carb setup down the road. Spoke with Charlie at length. Super nice to deal with. Starting to really appreciate the amount of “stuff” that I need to acquire. It is a daunting task to just even think about all the bits and pieces that need to come together to make a functioning vehicle. I guess I’ll just have to eat the elephant one bite at a time. Haha!

 

That looks really sharp @Ziggster...one other observation I failed to mention that may be ok as is is the fwd tang on the choke open/close lever is bent...if you look at the lever on your rustier carb it seems fine and if you look at my carbs they are similar to your rusty one as well...

I guess you can do the actuation to see if it fully opens and closes.

I noticed a rivet near that tang in some and not others...I wonder what that is there for?

I got a choke cable attach bracket from @dickster27
and the Cable was just a Napa or CT item...

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Good eye @Stogy. Yes, I noticed the choke lever was bent once I installed everything. I’ll need to straighten it out along with the accelerator pump link, and do a bit of touch-up paint.
Geeze, did I write all that?! Typing away on my phone, I can only see a portion of what is written. I’ll have to keep things shorter in tbe future. Lol!
I was looking at getting an “Edmunds” cable brkt to dress things up a bit, but at USD$40, I’ll pass. Even the stamped steel stuff is approx USD$20. As such, I’ve decided I’ll fab up whatever I need from some brass flatbar stock as it will help give a more prewar look.
Also, I noticed on the other multi-carb pic you posted, the mishmash of componentry on the carbs. The one stud on the middle carb is slightly crooked (same stud actually as on mine). I don’t feel so bad now. Lol!

 

Another thought just popped into my mind. I need to ditch the large bolt that was used to block off the ported vaccum opening on the carb, but was wondering if my vacuum gauge should be connected to it or one of the ports I have on my manifold?

 

There are threads on ported vacuum and other complexities that I haven't dealt with due to the fact my primary's (centers) don't have them...

The outer 4 are dummies that require rebuild and parts...someday...

The mechanic drilled my manifold and tapped and installed a line to Chevy stuff...

If it ain't crooked it ain't old......heck maybe the drill jig was off...

The cable support I got was UOS...Used Old Stuff...

Man those close ups are nasty eh...

The Ole Hotrod is as I always say a driven Hotrod aka minimal beauty salon......

 

Haha! You know @Stogy, the best rides are those that are driven and enjoyed as they were meant to be. Although I’m letting a bit of my OCD take over this particular part of my build, I can guarantee you, the rest will keep things rusty and crusty (kinda). Lol!
Pics of the oil filter hsg lid and clutch inspection cover. I’m 99% sure there is glass embedded in the steel.

 

Would paint encapsulate the impurities...or just a scuff with sandpaper...I mean sandblast is like glass isn't it?...

Maybe a molasses bath or vinegar is a better solution for this dilemma...